Plenum removal

nicnmike

New member
Haven't posted in a while, so I thought I'd share this little gem I found. I've got about 1000 miles on the rebuild and my valve cover gaskets are leaking. I thought I was being really careful and clean, but I guess I wasn't. Needless to say, I've been dreading taking the plenum off again, but then I found this video and it should save a couple of hours of head scratching and tagging vacuum lines. The magic happens at 1:30.

https://youtu.be/Bn_8w58pQXo

Are there any tips on avoiding leaking valve cover gaskets? Or getting them to seal correctly?

I also reinstalled the original air intake and the truck seems to be much happier. There's still some slight hesitation under 3000 rpm, but nothing I can't live with.

Hope this helps someone else.

-Mike
 
Register to hide this ad
new valve covers

It is my personal learned knowledge to replace the valve covers themselves:guitar2:. Over time the plastic gets distorted and is the root cause for valve cover leaks
 
I replaced the gaskets on my covers, only to find them leaking when I lost my head gaskets a few months later. When I re-installed them (doing the heads) I was looking in the FSM, and it shows using some sealant in the corners. I've only had them on for about 400 miles, but absolutely nothing is coming past them, seeping or otherwise. So, my two cents is to be sure and use some sealant, and not just trust the rubber gasket as I did the first time around.
 
i watched the video. i spent 6 hours tryng to remove my intake, i got it to wiggle enough to do what i needed to do but not the way they did i want to see that again in slow motion
 
When I had hesitation under 3000rpm, it was from unmetered air due to a crack in the intake tubing. Have you inspected all that?
 
I replaced the gaskets on my covers, only to find them leaking when I lost my head gaskets a few months later. When I re-installed them (doing the heads) I was looking in the FSM, and it shows using some sealant in the corners. I've only had them on for about 400 miles, but absolutely nothing is coming past them, seeping or otherwise. So, my two cents is to be sure and use some sealant, and not just trust the rubber gasket as I did the first time around.

I followed the FSM when I installed them. They didn't leak right away. Both sides are leaking now @ 1000 miles after rebuild. I should know more after I pull them.

i watched the video. i spent 6 hours tryng to remove my intake, i got it to wiggle enough to do what i needed to do but not the way they did i want to see that again in slow motion

That sucks. Have you had it off before? I'm hoping that since I've had mine off before, I'll be able to tell what's binding, if it gives me trouble.

When I had hesitation under 3000rpm, it was from unmetered air due to a crack in the intake tubing. Have you inspected all that?

I've replaced that duct with a new (dorman) one. Pulling that crappy aftermarket intake kit and putting the OE back in really did help. I've got a few more items to test. It's having some trouble starting in the morning. I'm suspicious my fuel pump might be dying. I replaced the fuel filter a while ago, but really didn't do too much driving after that. The one I took out was nasty, so it might be time for another already. This morning, after it didn't want to start right up, I turned the key on and waited a few seconds, hoping fuel pump would prime and it started up pretty quickly. Not sure. May require more head scratching.
 
I had that same exact problem

Yeah, I'm just being a little picky about it. It's really only a slight hesitation. Everything I do slowly improves it, so it just encourages me to dump more money in to replacing parts. :jump:

I do feel like I should go buy a fire extinguisher for the oil leak. The shields on the exhaust manifolds basically broke off during the tear down, so now the leaks drips right on a very hot manifold. :flame:
 
Turning the key on and waiting a few seconds will not prime the fuel rails or start the fuel pump. The pump is triggered by a deflection of the air valve due to compression while cranking. No compression, no air moment, no fuel pump. Just an FYI. This is true for the 3.0 & 22RE.


I followed the FSM when I installed them. They didn't leak right away. Both sides are leaking now @ 1000 miles after rebuild. I should know more after I pull them.



That sucks. Have you had it off before? I'm hoping that since I've had mine off before, I'll be able to tell what's binding, if it gives me trouble.



I've replaced that duct with a new (dorman) one. Pulling that crappy aftermarket intake kit and putting the OE back in really did help. I've got a few more items to test. It's having some trouble starting in the morning. I'm suspicious my fuel pump might be dying. I replaced the fuel filter a while ago, but really didn't do too much driving after that. The one I took out was nasty, so it might be time for another already. This morning, after it didn't want to start right up, I turned the key on and waited a few seconds, hoping fuel pump would prime and it started up pretty quickly. Not sure. May require more head scratching.
 
Turning the key on and waiting a few seconds will not prime the fuel rails or start the fuel pump. The pump is triggered by a deflection of the air valve due to compression while cranking. No compression, no air moment, no fuel pump. Just an FYI. This is true for the 3.0 & 22RE.

huh, must be psychosomatic.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,304
Messages
3,554,041
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top