Possible hatch failure + drawer system?

[f250ben]

Been doing some reading. As far as I can tell, the 4th gen hatch larch is prone to failure. I realized this cause a problem with my plan for a drawer system, where most of my recovery and tool supplies are stored.

1) What parts should I purchase and keep in my vehicle to avoid my hatch getting stuck while out on a trip or trail somewhere?

2) Any suggestions on storage locations for tools, or drawer system to avoid a stuck hatch becoming a huge problem during a trip?

3) Am I worrying unnecessarily?

My thoughts are
1) keep a door latch assembly, and the actuator piece (I think they’re separate pieces?)
2) Plano case on roof rack for recovery plus a very minimal tool kit for emergency access.
3) don’t worry further.

Thoughts/comments/related experiences?


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[rumfoord]

This is only an issue if there is rust. Check the locking mechanism for rust. If there are signs of rust, take door panel off and inspect further.

May find regulator is rusted and rusted metal fragments on bottom of door. If that is the case would suggest removing lock and clean any rust then spray generously with white lithium grease. Clean fragments as well...

If rust is significant may want to replace whole lock (part 69110-35090 Rear Gate Latch). Also if rust check for gaps in rear window weatherstrip, this is most likely cause of rust.

If there is no rust, you have no worries!

 

[f250ben]

This is only an issue if there is rust. Check the locking mechanism for rust. If there are signs of rust, take door panel off and inspect further.

May find regulator is rusted and rusted metal fragments on bottom of door. If that is the case would suggest removing lock and clean any rust then spray generously with white lithium grease. Clean fragments as well...

If rust is significant may want to replace whole lock (part 69110-35090 Rear Gate Latch). Also if rust check for gaps in rear window weatherstrip, this is most likely cause of rust.

If there is no rust, you have no worries!

Oh. That’s better than I had thought. I’m in Texas....I think I forget that rust is often a factor of many issues/threads on here. Because it’s simply not a major factor in Texas, unless you’re on the gulf coast, which I’m not.

So the stories of people’s actuators failing and the door getting stuck shut are ALL rust related or corrosion in the actuator assemblies themselves?


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[easyeatlanta]

Oh. That’s better than I had thought. I’m in Texas....I think I forget that rust is often a factor of many issues/threads on here. Because it’s simply not a major factor in Texas, unless you’re on the gulf coast, which I’m not.

So the stories of people’s actuators failing and the door getting stuck shut are ALL rust related or corrosion in the actuator assemblies themselves?


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I don’t think that is the case. Mine wasn’t rusty and it failed.

Just make sure you can get your drawer system to slide a few inches away from the hatch if needed. That would be enough room to get the panel off and pop the latch.

 

[rumfoord]

Well I guess don't listen to me. Very surprised to hear of a failure not due to rust. Ideas as to what caused your failure? Did something just wear out?

 

[gm350reratliff]

This is a good topic and something I haven't thought of before. I'm planning on building some drawers for both 4runners and I do want them close to the rear door for maximum platform space but if the mechanism were to fail, I imagine it would be a real PITA to get the door open.

IIRC, there was a thread on here about adding some type of interior handle or pull cable to be able to open the rear hatch from the inside. I'll have to look for it.

 

[easyeatlanta]

Well I guess don't listen to me. Very surprised to hear of a failure not due to rust. Ideas as to what caused your failure? Did something just wear out?

i'm not sure. I bought it not working, but pulling the old mechanism didn't show any rust.

 

[easyeatlanta]

This is a good topic and something I haven't thought of before. I'm planning on building some drawers for both 4runners and I do want them close to the rear door for maximum platform space but if the mechanism were to fail, I imagine it would be a real PITA to get the door open.

IIRC, there was a thread on here about adding some type of interior handle or pull cable to be able to open the rear hatch from the inside. I'll have to look for it.

I agree, putting a manual pull cord would save you from that.

 

[f250ben]

This is a good topic and something I haven't thought of before. I'm planning on building some drawers for both 4runners and I do want them close to the rear door for maximum platform space but if the mechanism were to fail, I imagine it would be a real PITA to get the door open.



IIRC, there was a thread on here about adding some type of interior handle or pull cable to be able to open the rear hatch from the inside. I'll have to look for it.

That would be useful.

I’ve always kept emergency and backup gear in my truck. After the last hurricane, I upped that to multiple days of food and a small water supply. Plus emergency gear, minimum camping supplies, and tools. The 4runner is a bit different for me, I’ve always kept this stuff in a truck bed tool box.

When I realized hatch latch failure is actually a thing, this was the next thing I thought of. All that stuff is pointless if you can’t get to it when you need it. And I’d rather not tear apart my drawer system from the inside in the dark on a muddy trail, just to get a tow strap out.


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[Inv4drZm]

You just need to add a hinged top panel on your drawer box to access the first 6" of drawer space from the topside and put your recovery gear in the front of the drawer.

That way you can just roll down your rear window, pop open the lid, and grab what you want.

 

[YetiX]

Has anyone figured out a mechanical (like a pull cord or something) way to open the hatch if the mechanism fails? Or, better yet, a way to convert this to a simple mechanical latch?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Has anyone figured out a mechanical (like a pull cord or something) way to open the hatch if the mechanism fails? Or, better yet, a way to convert this to a simple mechanical latch?

My parent's older Sequoia has a mechanical latch and it has broken a few times, I think both the plastic handle and somewhere in the linkage. I've always found mine is way better, especially with it's automatic closing, you don't have to slam it.