Possible Rod Knock

[shootmymime]

i have a 1996 w/ 202,000 miles on it, i have a problem

when the car warms up there is a somewhat loud ticking sound, same BPM and same tone. when it is at 600 RPM is the best you can hear it, Example at a stop light.

and when i acc. the noise gets faster and higher pitch, until being drown out by the CAI.

i took it to my mechanic shop i work at and they game me these ideas^





so.. my question is...

what do you guys think it may be?

how can i fix it?

if i pull off the valve covers, will i need a new gasget?

if there is abunch of sludge build up how is the best way to remove it?

and what are some problems that can and or will occure?

 

[drmorbius]

i have a 1996 w/ 202,000 miles on it, i have a problem

when the car warms up there is a somewhat loud ticking sound, same BPM and same tone. when it is at 600 RPM is the best you can hear it, Example at a stop light.

and when i acc. the noise gets faster and higher pitch, until being drown out by the CAI.

i took it to my mechanic shop i work at and they game me these ideas^
A rod knock is more of a thumping sound . A tic sound is usually associated with the valve train.





so.. my question is...

what do you guys think it may be?

how can i fix it?

if i pull off the valve covers, will i need a new gasget?

if there is abunch of sludge build up how is the best way to remove it?

and what are some problems that can and or will occure?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

so.. my question is...

what do you guys think it may be?

how can i fix it?

if i pull off the valve covers, will i need a new gasget?

if there is abunch of sludge build up how is the best way to remove it?

and what are some problems that can and or will occure?

I have run a few engines to very high mileage but not yours. Generally speaking you will need valve cover gaskets. If there's rubber seals at the ends of the valve covers I'd get those too. While the valve covers are off check the valve lash as that may be the source of the noise. As far as 'gooked-up' is concerned: you can scrape and vacuum to a degree but be careful about driving chunks of the gook into the oil galley/passages. Unless it's terrible you might be better off just leaving it as is.

Is it ready for a timing belt? If so do an oil pump too. If the bearings are loosening up a bit you delay the inevatible and quiet the noise by putting on a new pump.

Good luck!

 

[shootmymime]

thanks dude

 

[wolfgang]

With that many miles are you using a heavier than specified oil? Maybe even an additive like STP. Thicker oil will quieten it by filling in tolerance gaps a bit (and increasing oil pressure). There are oil flush kits (additives) - plus if a real beater drain oil and fill with kerosene - let it run for 10 minutes stationary and drain. Fill and drive maybe 500 miles and drain again. Using new filter each time. I'm sure the BG guys have an engine flush service too. Best solution is frequent oil changes - but might be too late for that. I'd be on lookout for replacement engine or saving for a rebuild.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

With that many miles are you using a heavier than specified oil? Maybe even an additive like STP. Thicker oil will quieten it by filling in tolerance gaps a bit (and increasing oil pressure). There are oil flush kits (additives) - plus if a real beater drain oil and fill with kerosene - let it run for 10 minutes stationary and drain. Fill and drive maybe 500 miles and drain again. Using new filter each time. I'm sure the BG guys have an engine flush service too. Best solution is frequent oil changes - but might be too late for that. I'd be on lookout for replacement engine or saving for a rebuild.

I agree 100% and would add that if you don't know the history of oil changes (in addition to his flush and higher viscosity suggestion) I really like the look for a rebuilt unit idea. If you pull the valve cover, discover that a valve or two needs adjustment AND it's semi-clean I'd keep going on that engine.

As far as thicker oil is concerned Wolfgang is right but take care not to over-do-it. Don't use two containers of STP and 20w-50oil. That may work good and get 10k miles but it won't get you the 50-60k your probably looking for especially if you drive aggressively in a cold climate.

 

[shootmymime]

well i am getting into cars more andmore, over the summer im planing on buyijng a mach 1 mustang to rebuild, so i do have enough time and tools to take car of my own car. so i could do a rebuild, but its my daily driver, thats the problem.

this car is a 1 owner, had it since 96 and all oil changes are written down in a book in the glove box, and i have a excel spread sheet of date, and maitnance the dealer has done,

i ahve a huge list!


last week i added some BK addative i got from my work and the ticking has pretty much gone away, but there is a new knocking when its in park, and it sounds fine when i acc.

ill take some time and monky with it when it warms up, ohh just did an oil change at 202,700 miles!