Post install question on axles 3rd Gen 4Runner

[Blueman2]

Followed the many threads on axle seals and bearings to do my own '96 Limited. I had the dealer do the bearing press off/on but did the rest myself.

I have a question for others though.

I found after reinstalling the axles with new seals and bearings that I could not rotate the axle by hand. Is this normal?

I could turn the axle if I used a small breaker bar , but if I just grabbed the lugs and tried to turn, I could not do it. This was after torquing the backing plate studs to the axle housing but before installing any brake components.

I could not feel or hear anything grinding as I turned the axles with the breaker bar, so I don't think there is a mechanical interference anywhere. Just want to make sure it is not unusual. There were some issues with the bearing replacement at the dealer but I am not sure if those could have caused this.

Thanks for any info

 

[Singtoe]

It is not normal. should be easy to figure out what side is giving you problems. Put the tranny in neutral and spin you axles. if one side is harder thenm the other, that is your problem side.

On a side note, You are trying to spin them without the brake drum on? If they are on, you might have excess shoe rub.

More then likely, the bearing did not get pressed on all the way or damaged during the installation. Just pull it apart and examine.

 

[Blueman2]

Thanks for your suggestions I will give it a shot.

The trans was in Park. When I put the first (left) axle in, I tightnened the stud nuts finger tight. At this point the axle would spin by hand, I could hear the diff turning as I turned the axle. I then tightened the stud nuts in two steps, 30 all around then to 48 lb-ft. This was when I found I could not turn the axle by hand. No brakes installed at this point. Zero end play in the axle.

It made sense to me that with new bearings and seals the axle would be much stiffer to turn, I just did not know how much stiffer it should be.

The dealer pressed the old bearings, retainers etc off and the new ones on. When I first got the axles back, the inboard bearing retainer was pressed too far onto the axle, it would not reach into the seal properly. The dealer fix was to add another bearing retainer. The second retainer now sits about 5mm from the edge of the machined surface and seems to engage the seal just right.

I am beginning to wish I never started this exercise.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Make sure this tranny is in neutral and not park as Singtoe said.

 

[Singtoe]

Thanks for your suggestions I will give it a shot.

The trans was in Park. When I put the first (left) axle in, I tightnened the stud nuts finger tight. At this point the axle would spin by hand, I could hear the diff turning as I turned the axle. I then tightened the stud nuts in two steps, 30 all around then to 48 lb-ft. This was when I found I could not turn the axle by hand. No brakes installed at this point. Zero end play in the axle.

It made sense to me that with new bearings and seals the axle would be much stiffer to turn, I just did not know how much stiffer it should be.

The dealer pressed the old bearings, retainers etc off and the new ones on. When I first got the axles back, the inboard bearing retainer was pressed too far onto the axle, it would not reach into the seal properly. The dealer fix was to add another bearing retainer. The second retainer now sits about 5mm from the edge of the machined surface and seems to engage the seal just right.

I am beginning to wish I never started this exercise.

Sounds like the dealer messed up. They need to remove the extra retainer and reinstall the bearing to spec. This is the mess up on the dealer part. If you install it as it is, it will get hot and die in short time.

 

[Blueman2]

Thanks folks for all comments. I talked to the dealer technician, he agrees that I should be able to turn the axle by hand. He did ask if the diff is a limited slip. I don't think it is but am going to do some further checking.

Will remove one axle, put trans in neutral and check turning effort for the remaining axle. If still too tight to turn by hand, am going to remove first axle, install second and try the same thing. If one turns and one does not, will return the bad one to the dealer. If both still fail to turn by hand, will return both to dealer for further investigation. Will advise results

How best to plug brake lines to avoid draining them? I tried the baggie approach but the baggies just started leaking.

Thanks again for all comments.

 

[Singtoe]

i use a rubber line with a screw in it. It stops the drainage and having to do a severe bleed.

 

[LittleCaesar]

5/32 vacuum end caps on each line. Will hold for weeks. A pack of 5 made by Dorman is under $3 or you could get the combo pack for $7.

What is a disconcerting is that the technician (Toy dealer) that you spoke with did the work on your axle and doesn't know that no 3rd gen 4runner has limited unless aftermarket. Make sure you get a warranty with all work.

 

[Blueman2]

Thanks for the suggestions on the brake line caps, I ended up using a 1/4 vacuum cap on each of the rear axle fittings.

Well this morning I jacked up the rear again, put it on jack stands, put the trans in neutral and tested both axles for hand rotation again.

After removing the right side, I was not able to rotate the left axle by hand. I then removed the left axle and reinstalled the right axle. With the studs made up finger tight I could rotate the right axle by hand. I torqued the stud nuts in two stages to 48 lb-ft. After installation I was able to rotate the right axle by hand without too much effort. Hurrah for the right side! Guess I can button up the right side and call it good.

The left axle gets the brakes stripped off and goes back to the dealer for further attention.

Meanwhile I will have time to work on completing the relocation of the ECT and Rear Window switches as part of the cupholder mod.

 

[Blueman2]

Final update, finally got the dealer to redo the left side, put it all back together and all seemed OK. A couple of days later I found a dribble of oil in the left drum so I replaced the seal again. Will check in a day or so and see if it is still leaking.

Just as an FYI, the FSM says the distance from the wheel mounting surface of the axle hub to the end of the inner bearing retainer is supposed to be 122.3 mm plus or minus 1 mm. If they don't get this right, the bearing retainer may not enter the seal fully and thus will leak.