Potential 3rd Gen Buyer

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Spruce_1984

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Hey all,

I've owned about 8 Jeeps of various models, and have built all of them in some way shape or form, but I'd like something with a bit more interior room for my family (1 kid, but 3 dogs). I've been hunting for an FJ80 for a bit, and anything that's not rusted through is $14,000 or has literally 400,000 miles on it. With all of that in mind, I've widened my search to encompass 3rd gen 4 runners. I love the aesthetic, and most folks seem to be in consensus that they are generally pretty reliable. Generally being from the 90's I'd assume they're not OVERLY complicated to work on, either.

I'm right now looking at a 1999 with 120,5xx, 5 speed. The current owner got it after a family member died, and does not know how to drive a manual, nor does he know anything about it (maintenance, package, even the engine...) He's out of town until Saturday, and I figured I'd ask some folks who know what they're about what I should be on the lookout for.

Besides an abundance of rust, something I know too much about already, what should I make sure to scope out before any decision?

Thanks in advance!
 
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I recommend reading this first: 3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

With a 5 speed there is no worry about the dreaded 'pink milkshake'of an auto trans but an older radiator can still bust and cause problems.

If you want more power than the 3.4 can muster (which really is more than adequate for the average city or country drive), the 4th gens have an optional 4.7 v8 and are a tad larger, just a tad.

If not significant rust (can't poke thru it with a screwdriver) I'd go for it, especially is the price is right. Luck and let us know how it turns out....
 
I aways highly recommend a compression test on used vehicles, WOT, Pull the EFI fuse so you don't get fuel soaked readings. Check the plugs are NGK OR DENSO dual prong while at it and note condition for future change intervals. Frame Rot inspection on the lowest 4 corners and between the fuel tank, and body rot, check manual trans and rear diff fluids(add to list to change out regardless for a fresh change interval, good time to do the tcase, manual trans and front diff which often gets neglected), timing belt sticker of last T-belt job so you know when to change it next, a call to the local Toyota dealer where said Toyota is with VIN, see if you can talk them out of the service info done to this truck and do an odometer check of the last visit(this year had a fuel level gauge TSB and if they swapped the inclinometer in the dash the mileage would be zeroed out at that time and this should be documented at the dealer, all 99's where subject to this TSB. Check for steering rack play(easy fix) Add lower ballJoints and tierods to the list of to do items, and check all other moving points for play and for sources of leaks, especially rear outter axle seals. I expect the suspension is original so expect it to need doing, always a good idea to have an inspection done by a mechanic (preferably the guy the does the safety inspection) as a fresh eye might notice something you missed, I often gamble and do my own inspections. Also wouldn't hurt to inspect the paint near body panels and window trim to see if it has been resprayed, check VIN on all body panels to insure they match the truck, windows also have corresponding ID numbers if that matters, and test operation of 2wd 4H 4H locked 4L and RR DIFF LOCK operation if equipped(rr diff lock only works in 4L from factory without mods)Sounds like some low mileage for a 99', but I must say mine is mint still top and bottom at 290,000KM and I live in the rust belt, so be certain of the mileage. Sunroof and firewall leaks are another common issue noted by wet floors or stinky interior.
 
Pretty much the most desirable combination there. If it's got the elocker too even better. It'll sell in a heartbeat so don't wait too long.

I'd mostly be concerned with the frame rust. I wouldn't buy a rust bucket, personally I'd rather no engine.

If the price is right snag it, people are paying a lot for the 99/00 with a 5 speed. Later models are auto only and more electronics.

Edit: Most seem to spend $1-2,000 getting things up to snuff on a new purchase unless you have found the rare, good previous owner.
 
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Amen on the rust. I've had my share of Wranglers in pieces while I figure out how much of the frame I can save. I asked about frame rust and the guy said "somewhat" - Gotta love facebook marketplace conversations. I'm cool unless it's a 4 cylinder variety, and the price on it is already low and he says he's motivated. Thank you for the link to the buying guide...I should have assumed there was something like that here.
 
Spruce_1984 said:
Amen on the rust. I've had my share of Wranglers in pieces while I figure out how much of the frame I can save. I asked about frame rust and the guy said "somewhat" - Gotta love facebook marketplace conversations. I'm cool unless it's a 4 cylinder variety, and the price on it is already low and he says he's motivated. Thank you for the link to the buying guide...I should have assumed there was something like that
here.
Click to expand...


There is really nothing wrong with a 4 cyl 5speed. Unless you are planning to add tons of weight. Perfectly acceptable configuration.
 
Malcolm99 said:
I aways highly recommend a compression test on used vehicles, WOT, Pull the EFI fuse so you don't get fuel soaked readings. Check the plugs are NGK OR DENSO dual prong while at it and note condition for future change intervals. Frame Rot inspection on the lowest 4 corners and between the fuel tank, and body rot, check manual trans and rear diff fluids(add to list to change out regardless for a fresh change interval, good time to do the tcase, manual trans and front diff which often gets neglected), timing belt sticker of last T-belt job so you know when to change it next, a call to the local Toyota dealer where said Toyota is with VIN, see if you can talk them out of the service info done to this truck and do an odometer check of the last visit(this year had a fuel level gauge TSB and if they swapped the inclinometer in the dash the mileage would be zeroed out at that time and this should be documented at the dealer, all 99's where subject to this TSB. Check for steering rack play(easy fix) Add lower ballJoints and tierods to the list of to do items, and check all other moving points for play and for sources of leaks, especially rear outter axle seals. I expect the suspension is original so expect it to need doing, always a good idea to have an inspection done by a mechanic (preferably the guy the does the safety inspection) as a fresh eye might notice something you missed, I often gamble and do my own inspections. Also wouldn't hurt to inspect the paint near body panels and window trim to see if it has been resprayed, check VIN on all body panels to insure they match the truck, windows also have corresponding ID numbers if that matters, and test operation of 2wd 4H 4H locked 4L and RR DIFF LOCK operation if equipped(rr diff lock only works in 4L from factory without mods)Sounds like some low mileage for a 99', but I must say mine is mint still top and bottom at 290,000KM and I live in the rust belt, so be certain of the mileage. Sunroof and firewall leaks are another common issue noted by wet floors or stinky interior.
Click to expand...

Awesome...thank you for this. The idea of contacting a local dealer to look up maintenance history is something I wouldn't have thought of.
 
I actually prefer to buy them super clapped out and rusty and the weld a ton of new metal onto the frame then spend like 10k turning a $1000 4runner into a $3500 4runner, that’s where all the fun is
 
RandyBobandy said:
I actually prefer to buy them super clapped out and rusty and the weld a ton of new metal onto the frame then spend like 10k turning a $1000 4runner into a $3500 4runner, that’s where all the fun is
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Most people arent like us Randy. ;)

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Just verify it's not really rusted frame unless you like to hobby weld like I do. Mostly the rust belt will eat the frames up. Along with the rockers and rear fender wells. I brought a few back from going to the junk yards. [ still tinkering with them]

Check the fluids. Listen to it run. Verify nobody try to hide a warn out clutch by adjusting the pedal and put a spring on it.

Also dead give away for that scenario is the cruise control will not work.

Listen for a smooth clean idle when warm with very little rpm gauge movement.

Make sure all 5 gears and reverse work properly and your transfer case functions properly.





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This wasn't the one I posted about, but a different one I went to look at. I've never seen a control arm break so evenly, lol.

FdloNhp.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Spruce_1984 said:
This wasn't the one I posted about, but a different one I went to look at. I've never seen a control arm break so evenly, lol.

FdloNhp.jpg
[/IMG]
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I have. That one has frame issues...;) I have 4 that were in need a frame repair.

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Spruce_1984 said:
Lol...yeah. He said he'd take $900, and I thought about it for a second but he mentioned that it also uses 1/2 quart of coolant every two weeks.
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$500 dollar mobiles. Might have issues getting someone to pay him 900 for it...:/

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you ever hear back on the manual 99? Before I traded my Suburban for the 97 I have now, I was seriously contemplating hitting that guy up (if it's the same white(or silver...can't remember)), but with the purpose of a 4R for me being mostly offroad, that one was way too clean (according to the pictures) to justify beating to hell on the trails lol
 
Hey Spruce... I have a 2001 4Runner that has a KZN185 Diesel with front mounted intercooler I am selling. Let me know if you are interested.
 
moby88 said:
Hey Spruce... I have a 2001 4Runner that has a KZN185 Diesel with front mounted intercooler I am selling. Let me know if you are interested.
Click to expand...

Unless you wanna swap it for a 2000 XJ mild build or wanna toss it at me for 3 grand, I probably am out of the market.
 
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