Power Hesistation

T

thephatone

New member
Hey guys, I just picked up a 2000 champagne limited edition yesterday. It has 81,000 but it seems to not go anywhere when I hit the gas at around 3000-4000rpms. I was first thinking the MAF, and 2nd would be something with the fuel/timing.

By the way, I think the car is great!
 
Register to hide this ad
not sure about the 6cyl, as i have a 4. but...have you gone through the basics? plugs, air filter, clean throttle body, clean maf???
 
turn off OverDrive, i leave mines off wen im doin reg drivin,even tho mines a I4, i leave it off, i only turn it on wen im at 60+ mph on freeway
 
Ill probably replace the intake in a little bit, I would like a short ram, know of anyone that is selling those? plugs should be fine since there arent that many miles on it
 
okay my check engine light is on, what would possible set off the check engine light to go on? I was going uphill, and it had trouble getting past 3.5k rpms and ended dropping slowly while I was going up the hill...someone please help me. If it seems like a huge problem meaning I have to spend a lot of money, then I ll go ahead and return the car, but if its something as simple as doing a tune up and replacing the MAF etc... then Ill hang on to the car...



Any advice would be appreciated.
 
have you tried cleaning your MAF, throttle body, if the plugs are stock you would prob. want to change them, dont you have to change plugs every 30k or something like that according to toyota service? im not sure on that but i would address those things first, after you perform those maintenence items, pull your EFI fuse under the hood and leave it out for 5-10 minutes, that will reset your lights and allow your vehicle to learn how you drive it. if doing the above doesnt help then post back and we can look at some other options, i have 91k on my 02 and except for a low idle (625 rpm in D) it runs just like it did with 30k, so chances are that it is something simple, but there is always one lemon out there....
 
would a faulty MAF throw a Check Engine Light though? If so, how much do MAF go for? is there an advantage to get an intake for the 4runner? except the sound?
 
yes a faulty MAF would throw on a check engine light and explain the hesitation and dropping RPMs, try cleaning it before you go buy a new one, they are expensive, so you might try to find one in a junk yard or off someone parting out a 3rd gen. if you get a cold air intake i believe you will get a few more horsies, and before you run off and get the K&N FIPK do some searching on yotatech.com and here to get the best one for your application.

as far as a write up on how to perform these maintenece thingys here is a link, good luck and let us know if it helped

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/tacoma_4runner_30k/maintenancep5.html
 
MAF

Quite possible its the MAF. My "check engine" too came on a few weeks ago and i have 71,000 miles. Dealerreplaced the MAF, and I have since added a TRUE FLOW air filter from burtmanindustries.com, as well as soon to order the Vortex muffler and did the deck plate mod. Truck runs with alot of power now!!!! NO HESISTATION at all.
 
ill try cleaning the MAF and while Im at it have autozone check for codes. Question is, where do you buy the electric cleaner?
 
the car is at the mechanics now , ill let ya guys know the outcome probably tonight, the mechanic said it might be the idle control? He said sometimes it produces the same symptoms as a bad MAF
 
okay the check engine read out that bank 1 was too lean, so it would be the MAF, Im going to have that replaced. Thats the only code it threw out so I should be in the clear after that right?
 
have you tried cleaning the MAF yet? it is possible that you can fix it without spending a couple hundred dollars to replace a part that might just need some contact cleaner sprayed on it. but if you have the cash, shell it out and it should fix the problem. CEL are annoying so hopefully after you clean/replace the MAF it should run like new
 
thephatone said:
okay the check engine read out that bank 1 was too lean, so it would be the MAF, Im going to have that replaced. Thats the only code it threw out so I should be in the clear after that right?
Click to expand...
yes as runnerup said... CLEAN IT dont change it.

thats at least 350 bucks :(
 
Similar problem...

I'm new here. I posted this same message in the "Problems & Warranty" section:

Ok,

Here is what is happening to me. I have a 2000 4Runner 2WD, V6, automatic. I bought it last December (had it for about a year). I got it with 64K miles, I have reached 84K this week -- about 20K miles in one year...

On to the issue:

- I first got a CEL last month going up hill to take a freeway onramp. I didn't feel anything different with the truck, just that the CEL light was ON. I took it to a friend for a computer diagnosis; it was the O2 sensor (the "first" one, before the cat)

- I get it fixed. CEL goes away. The next day, the CEL turns back ON again! I take it to my friend once again. It appears to be the MAF sensor. He cleans it, as well as the throttle body. CEL goes away again.

- Two days later, CEL comes back ON. The MAF sensor needs to be replaced. I get it done and the CEL goes away (again).

- Everything is cool for about 3 days, when all of a sudden, the CEL comes ON yet again (for the 4th time, I believe). At this point, the truck feels no different than when I first bought it. It's just that the CEL is bothering me and I want to get it fixed...I keep driving the truck for one more day (it was a Sunday) and on Monday during lunchtime, the CEL simply turns OFF...

- I keep driving the truck with no issues until a couple of days after the CEL turned OFF, I reach a stop light facing downhill. I am just stepping on the brake while on "D" (Overdrive always ON). The truck begins shaking a little bit, as if the engine was losing "pressure", if you will. The light turns green and I accelerate, make a right turn and start going uphill now.

The truck is not accelerating and it feels like it's choking. I press the pedal even further and I start hearing some "popping" sounds coming from the right frong underside of the car (kinda where the O2 sensor is). I release the accelerator and step on it again, wanting to get the car out of that "choke". The truck now starts responding and accelerates very fast. Truck returns to "normal"...

- I take it to my friend again, but this time the computer shows nothing wrong. WTF? He tells me to keep driving the truck to see if it happens again. Keep in mind the CEL has been OFF all the time.

- This same thing happens again a couple of more times. Now it's time for an oil change and I also do the fuel filter change (NOTE that I had done a "tune up" to the truck on the last oil change, 5K miles ago).

- I keep driving the truck thinking this will "solve" things and nothing. The truck did it again, but this time it lasted longer for it to respond. The weird thing is, that it always happens when I am at a stop light facing downhill and have to go uphill after the light goes green. At the stop light the car would shake, RPM start going up and down below 1K similar to when the battery or alternator is bad--Once I start accelerating uphill, the truck does not respond and moves very slowly. The more pressure I apply to the pedal, the harder the truck "chokes" and the more air "popping" sounds I hear.

I am not a mechanically inclined person, so I am just describing things as I feel/hear them. The truck honestly feels like its being blocked of air, like something is being blocked and the car cannot advance. It does not feel like transmission/engaging problems (I have a Mustang where I had that problem, not the same) nor like engine internal issues. I really hope it's something very simple or something just got stuck in the Air ducts.

I want this fixed! I have been losing a lot of time and money now trying to get this out of the way for the past month. I am sure somebody has had the same problem I do! Please help!

I thought 4Runners were "indestructible" and very reliable as I have been told by 99% of the people I talked to before buying mine. I have a limited power-train warranty from the dealer until I reach 100K miles, but I doubt they cover stuff like this. Plus, they charge an arm and a leg just for "diagnosing", and if my friends computer did not come up with anything, I doubt the dealership will be able to tell me otherwise...

Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 337 (members: 3, guests: 334)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,054
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top