Power lock issue - anyone else?

[THEREED]

I have a 2006 runner with 56k. today I shut the door and hit the lock button on the key fob and no beep. I heard doors lock except for the drivers door. So I fooled with it an the only way the lock would work was with the key. I replaced the battery on the fob and still same thing.

Has anyone else had this issue?? Is it possibly some type of fob setting I actually triggered or a lock issue. Not sure how to proceed as I do not want the stealership to get a blank slate of potential issues to whack me with

 

[shuly]

I have a 2006 runner with 56k. today I shut the door and hit the lock button on the key fob and no beep. I heard doors lock except for the drivers door. So I fooled with it an the only way the lock would work was with the key. I replaced the battery on the fob and still same thing.

Has anyone else had this issue?? Is it possibly some type of fob setting I actually triggered or a lock issue. Not sure how to proceed as I do not want the stealership to get a blank slate of potential issues to whack me with

I had this happen before I did a 3 day Mojave run (what timing eh?) Not sure if you have figured this out yet...however if you use your keys to lock the door that is not working on power, you then should be able to arm the alarm. You will need to disarm using the button. Then you can manually unlock the door. That should get you to a point where you can at least lock and unlock and enable/disable the security as needed until you can get it fixed.

When I looked at the records of the repair this is what it shows:
POWER LOCKS ~|~CK DRIVER SIDE POWER DOOR LOCK WILL NOT LOCK WHEN PRESSING REMOTE OR SWITCH,OR UNLOCK ALSO HAS EXT WRNTY ~|~DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR BAD CIRCUIT INTERNAL ~|~REPLACED DRIVER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR ASSY

I make no guarantees, but this has fixed the problem. I am surprised though it happened @ 34296 miles. Still under my 36k. Should be covered under extended warranty as well. If not, it might be worth buying the part from 1st toyota or another online supplier (assuming that's the problem). If it is the part I think it is about 256 list and 185 from 1st toyota. Wow....didn't know it was that much. Glad it was under warranty!

<O</O

 

[THEREED]

thanks for the info. I at least wanted a ballpark # before letting the dealer give me some line so this helps. the key does work fine, just no power.

 

[shuly]

thanks for the info. I at least wanted a ballpark # before letting the dealer give me some line so this helps. the key does work fine, just no power.

You can try to replicate my problem more specifically.

Pushing the button to lock the doors would lock 3 of the 4 (plus the back) but nothing would beep. You should hear & see the door locks function expect for the drivers door. Upon manually locking the door and then pressing the button the alarm would sucessfully arm and indicate that with a beep. That was the specific problem.

If you leave the windows down while testing you won't physically lock yourself out. Best of luck!

 

[Atlanta_man]

My extended warranty has now replaced all 4 of my door actuators.
Those things were good for 1 or 2,000 actuation's...

Not the Toyota quality I expected from these parts

Nothing else mechanical except the sun roof has been worked on.

The important mechanicals have been perfect

(the 'beep on lock' is generated by a switch which detects whether the door 'really' got locked, an important and good design feature)

 

[TBoliv]

You can try to replicate my problem more specifically.

Pushing the button to lock the doors would lock 3 of the 4 (plus the back) but nothing would beep. You should hear & see the door locks function expect for the drivers door. Upon manually locking the door and then pressing the button the alarm would sucessfully arm and indicate that with a beep. That was the specific problem.

If you leave the windows down while testing you won't physically lock yourself out. Best of luck!

Thanks for the info Shuly. Mine has been doing exactly what you described for a little over 2 months now. If I manually lock the door (with the key or physically turning the lock switch) it will lock the driver door, but pushing the fob button or the power lock button on the door results in everything BUT the driver door locking/unlocking. At least now I know what part I need. Much appreciated.

 

[thebobs]

I have a slightly different problem. I have a 2005 4runner and my back passenger door intermittently won't lock or unlock when arming or disarming or putting the 4runner into and out of gear. All other 3 doors lock and unlock with no problem. I can lock and unlock the door by hand.

Do all of the doors have an actuator? And is this what I need? I don't really want to spend a lot of money by having them charge me to look at it, charge me for the part and then charge me a lot to install it.

 

[Uneek]

I have a slightly different problem. I have a 2005 4runner and my back passenger door intermittently won't lock or unlock when arming or disarming or putting the 4runner into and out of gear. All other 3 doors lock and unlock with no problem. I can lock and unlock the door by hand.

Do all of the doors have an actuator? And is this what I need? I don't really want to spend a lot of money by having them charge me to look at it, charge me for the part and then charge me a lot to install it.

Yup all the doors have them.

Does the door lock or unlock when using the master switch on the front doors? How about with the remote? If it doesn't, it's the actuator.

 

[thebobs]

Yup all the doors have them.

Does the door lock or unlock when using the master switch on the front doors? How about with the remote? If it doesn't, it's the actuator.

No. If I use the master lock or the remote, its intermittent. Well more on the side of not responding. Once in a while it responds.

So from what you're saying, I need a new actuator. Well I guess I'll have to search for one and the instructions on how to change it. I don't feel like paying a huge bill to Toyota to do it for me.

 

[thebobs]

This is odd. I went onto partstrain.com and they listed a door actuator as ~ $5.00. Am I reading that right or did they give me the wrong part in the search?

How much did the part cost you guys?

 

[shuly]

This is odd. I went onto partstrain.com and they listed a door actuator as ~ $5.00. Am I reading that right or did they give me the wrong part in the search?

How much did the part cost you guys?

Either you have the wrong part number or the fix is really cheap. I had to dig out the original paperwork and the part they replaced on mine would have been about 240 at dealer prices not including labor. The Toyota part number for my 07 was 69040-02120.

I suppose it is possible Toyota is replacing the whole assembly rather than just a single part. I didn't take anything apart so I can't say for sure if the whole assembly really needed to be replaced. It would be nice to find out though if this fix really is only 5 bucks. Would be good to know for future use when all the warranties are done.

 

[Dmitriy76]

So I have a question, I own 2007 4Runner SR5. None of doors lock or unlock with key fob or switches on ether driver or passenger doors. When I use a key fob or switches on ether door I hear relay click but nothing is happening. I followed one of the videos where person checked power flow to the actuator and I did the same but I used voltmeter and it looks like when I used key fob and door switch power was going to actuator. If I get power to actuator does that mean that relay is working and that I probably should replace ether actuator or motor in all 4 doors or there could be something else wrong?

 

[AuSeeker]

I have same issue but when I use key fob or switch on my door none of the doors will lock or unlock. I can hear the relay work but nothing locks or unlocked. Does that mean that I have to replace all 4 door actuators? I have 2007 4Runner.

Many here have had success with just replacing the small electric motor in the actuators for around $10 each instead of a couple of hundred or more each for the entire actuator, but it sounds strange that none of the locks work, even though you hear the relay clicking that doesn't mean the relay is still good, the switching circuit in the relay can still be good but the contacts within the relay could be bad and not send current to the actuators, it's very rare for all 4 actuators to go bad at the same time if ever!!

I would test the relay to see if it's indeed working correctly or swap it out with another if you don't have a multimeter to test it with.

If you don't know how to test a relay here's a video showing 2 relays that both click when 12 volts is applied to the switching circuit but only one that has a complete curcuit on the power supply to the component.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ire7vyDqelg

 

[4RunnerMexico]

Many here have had success with just replacing the small electric motor in the actuators for around $10 each instead of a couple of hundred or more each for the entire actuator, but it sounds strange that none of the locks work, even though you hear the relay clicking that doesn't mean the relay is still good, the switching circuit in the relay can still be good but the contacts within the relay could be bad and not send current to the actuators, it's very rare for all 4 actuators to go bad at the same time if ever!!

I would test the relay to see if it's indeed working correctly or swap it out with another if you don't have a multimeter to test it with.

If you don't know how to test a relay here's a video showing 2 relays that both click when 12 volts is applied to the switching circuit but only one that has a complete curcuit on the power supply to the component.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ire7vyDqelg

This. I bought 4 of the motors off of eBay for like $15. Just take the actuator out, crack the whole thing open and replace the motor. They work great

 

[Dmitriy76]

Many here have had success with just replacing the small electric motor in the actuators for around $10 each instead of a couple of hundred or more each for the entire actuator, but it sounds strange that none of the locks work, even though you hear the relay clicking that doesn't mean the relay is still good, the switching circuit in the relay can still be good but the contacts within the relay could be bad and not send current to the actuators, it's very rare for all 4 actuators to go bad at the same time if ever!!

I would test the relay to see if it's indeed working correctly or swap it out with another if you don't have a multimeter to test it with.

If you don't know how to test a relay here's a video showing 2 relays that both click when 12 volts is applied to the switching circuit but only one that has a complete curcuit on the power supply to the component.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ire7vyDqelg

I actually tested if power was going to actuator with voltmeter and every time I used key fob to lock and unlock driver door voltmeter showed that there was power flowing to actuator. I did not test other doors. Could the problem still be with relay?