Power outlet issue

Jaketino

Jaketino

New member
So I have tried searching for a solution to my problem but for some reason I only find issues related to newer models.

I used my power outlets a few months ago and they seemed to work fine. Suddenly my air compressor stopped working and I figured that it was the compressor that had died. Well, since then I've tried plugging in numerous things (phone charger, cooler, air compressor) and none of them have worked. So I tested the outlet and found that it was not getting and power. I went under the hood to check the fuse and it was fine. In fact, ALL of the fuses are fine...

So, any ideas of what to try next?
 
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Right behind the power outlet, there is a fuse-able metal link. That probably has blown. You have to remove the power outlet and the fuse-able link is attached to the power outlet by a 8 mm nut. You can replace those (don't know how much or where to find it). If that is the problem (most probably is), I have extra power outlets for 4runners for sale. Let me know.
 
What compressor are you plugging into the socket? Some of the electric compressors can pull more than 20 amps. I think the stock outlets don't allow more than 10 amps. If this is the case you may have burn the link.

Even before it blew, if that was the case, you were probably heating those wires up real good. If your compressor came with battery clamps use them or get a compressor that uses them and connect the compressor directly to the battery.
 
Just a random cheap compressor. My dad gave it to me because he didn't think it worked. I plugged it right in and it ran for about 20 minutes before it stopped. I figured that it had finally died and gave up on it.
 
So do both of the outlets have this link in them or just the front one, that in turn kills the rear one?
 
So you only used it once?

I know electric compressors are slow but why was it on so long? Were you inflating tires? As the pressure increases the power draw will probably increase, hence blowing the fuse.
 
I used it to refill the tires. They were my old ones and were leaking slightly. I went around the vehicle inflating them and got 3 out of 4 done.
 
I did the full time power mod to my outlets and it gave full power to my rear outlet and two accessory ones below the stereo. The cigarette lighter outlet was not affected and only works when the key is in the ON position.

Try plugging a cell phone charger in the cigarette lighter port with the truck on to see if it works. It's possible the other 3, if the 98's have the same three, are linked. Google up the wiring diagram to see what is linked. It will also help to take a multi meter and see where power stops. It maybe going into the 'first' outlet but not making it through due to the fusable link.
 
It's not even making it to the first outlet (I only have the front outlet and the rear outlet). The fuse in the engine compartment is getting power but the output itself is not. I'll pull it out and check the link but I'm wondering if there is a way to keep this from happening. I would rather blow a fuse somewhere else than replace the outlets every few months.
 
I killed mine the same way, was using a friend's Slime compressor to top off my tires.

I've seen threads where people have removed the fusible link. I'm not sure if that is a good idea though.

Part number for the outlet is 85530-06010. If I remember correctly, I paid about $20 at the dealership. Or better yet, get some from nissanh.
 
I'm just curious if there is a way to fix the problem. I don't want to have to tip toe around my outlet everyday in fear of it breaking again.
 
Information

4x4mike said:
I did the full time power mod to my outlets and it gave full power to my rear outlet and two accessory ones below the stereo. The cigarette lighter outlet was not affected and only works when the key is in the ON position.

Try plugging a cell phone charger in the cigarette lighter port with the truck on to see if it works. It's possible the other 3, if the 98's have the same three, are linked. Google up the wiring diagram to see what is linked. It will also help to take a multi meter and see where power stops. It maybe going into the 'first' outlet but not making it through due to the fusable link.
Click to expand...

I am going to install 3 power outlets (2-cargo area and 1-behind the center console) in the coming week. I have gauge 10 wire with an inline fuse holder.

How did you pull the wire? under the truck body or inside the body?

Thanks
 
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Upon testing the connector, there is no power getting to this either. So the issue is somewhere between the connector and the fuse. Any other ideas of where it could fail? There is a relay it seems right next to the small fuse in the engine compartment but I have no idea how to test it.
 
Jaketino said:
Upon testing the connector, there is no power getting to this either. So the issue is somewhere between the connector and the fuse. Any other ideas of where it could fail? There is a relay it seems right next to the small fuse in the engine compartment but I have no idea how to test it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that fusible link is intact. (It's that black "L" shaped wire.) Unlike fuses, they deform pretty dramatically when they go.

Most of those simple relays can be swapped with another to test. Just look for one the same size, compare part numbers, and swap if they match. Try to pick something non-essential to swap with.
 
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Personally, I would build a system for the vehicle that has the capacity to work under load. The power outlets in most vehicles are for the smaller lighter loads such as a cell phone charger or lighting of some sorts. I would run a heavier gauge wire from the battery to the area that I wanted to plug a compressor into and put in a heavy duty circuit breaker (at the battery), just like I would if I were going to wire in an amp for a stereo system that has some capacity. Then connect the compressor to that wiring using a heavier duty type connector than a standard power plug. That way, when you are knee deep in snow, mud, or whatever yuck, it will do what you want it to. Remember to use grommets when going through the metal walls and make sure that the connections are solid.
 
If you notice the left end of the fuse-link it is wider at one point. try peeling the cover, I think the connection is melted inside it.
 
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