Power Steering Fluid ATF return line

tcpoob

New member
Is the thinner line on the bottom of the pic, tagged with red star, the PSF return, that should be disconnected and routed to a recycle jug when flushing power steering fluid? What is the thicker line, the PSF outgoing (from reservoir) hose?

My 4Runner 2005 4WD SR5 has about 157k miles, still orig fluid AFAIK.
This is the steps to flush it:

  1. jack up front end,
  2. suck the remaining power steering fluid from reseroir
  3. disconnect return hose and cap off nipple, run return hose to container
  4. start but no need to crank engine, while engine is in started position, turn wheel from lock to lock a few times and watch some more fluid drain to the container
  5. refill reservoir and repeat the steps perhaps two more times till fluid draining is clean
  6. reconnect return hose to nipple, clamp it, refill, drive around a bit, make sure fluid level is right

what i am not too clear is i think the wheel can only be turned while engine power is on , right ? I read somewhere that you turn the wheel to flush remaining fluid when engine is off, that's confusing to me.

i believe 4th gen calls for Dexron II or III so I plan to use Valvoline Maxlife.

thanks
 

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I do not know about this line but I flush mine through the power steering fluid cooler line in front of the radiator behind the bumper. Much easier to get to.
 
That is the line to take off. I just did this my self and just put a small container under the hose after I disconnected it to catch the fluid. All you have to do is turn the key far enough to unlock the steering wheel and if you go back and forth from lock to lock 1 time it will be enough to need to fill the reservoir up so you do not get air in the lines. I repeated this about 5 times and the fluid coming out into the container looked brand new. Then just reconnect the hose and top off the reservoir and you are good to go.
 
As always, I thought it would be best to add to existing conversation rather than start a new one to make it easier for future searches.

Am I correct in understanding that by turning the wheel back and forth, the steering cylinder (acting like a very large syringe plunger) will pull new fluid through the lines and push out the old?

My only question is: does the lock-to-lock method pull fluid through the pump and cooler as well, or just the reservoir and steering cylinder?

If the system is a single loop going from Reservoir - pump - Cylinder - Cooler - Reservoir, then I can see this working fine. Just wondering.
 
As always, I thought it would be best to add to existing conversation rather than start a new one to make it easier for future searches.

Am I correct in understanding that by turning the wheel back and forth, the steering cylinder (acting like a very large syringe plunger) will pull new fluid through the lines and push out the old?

My only question is: does the lock-to-lock method pull fluid through the pump and cooler as well, or just the reservoir and steering cylinder?

If the system is a single loop going from Reservoir - pump - Cylinder - Cooler - Reservoir, then I can see this working fine. Just wondering.

its a single loop. if you fill it from the reservoir it has to go through the pump to get to the steering rack, and from the rack to the cooler up that line back in to the reservoir.
 
I do not know about this line but I flush mine through the power steering fluid cooler line in front of the radiator behind the bumper. Much easier to get to.

There's a power steering fluid cooler?

nope, they dont have one so he must have been talking about the ATF aux cooler for 4wd or v8 4runners, funny thing is im not sure if he was mistaken or actually thought that was for the power steering lol

you can see it here in post #176 http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/195074-atf-exchange-using-cooling-line-12.html
 
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That is the correct line. When I did mine I bought a double 3/8" barb and and barb with a thread on the top and purchased a matching cap for it. Put the double barb in the hose you disconnect and on the other side some clear hose to your container. The barb/cap can be put on a small clear hose attached to the reservoir so you don't go dry.

You do not want to run the engine for the PS flush - if you do you will be using the power steering pump which will be pretty high pressure/fast. You want to leave your key to on (engine off) so the steering wheel is unlocked. You don't have to use jacks, you can do it on the ground - just going to be harder, ie, like not having power steering.

Read the other thread, should clear everything else up.
 
just did mine, the jug was full of crud so i had to soak it in chem dip for about 6 hours before it came clean. i gave it 2 hours then shook junk out then another 2 hours and shook junk out, then one last time for 2 hours and it was like new again.

had tons of flaky crud blocking up the screen in there and i used water hose to flush it all out, then shook dry and sprayed it good with carb cleaner to get all the water out. it took only 1 quart of tranny fluid to do the whole job.

feels much better now as far as being responsive but doesnt steer any easier because i didnt have any hard steering issues to begin with for it to fix. "maybe" its a little easier but it might just be my imagination.

instead of removing the bracket, i just bent the clip a little to slid it out of the bracket, its much easier to remove it that way.

next up on the "to-do" list is to remove the upper hose from the front aux ATF cooler (see my link in post above) and do the tranny fluid flush.
 

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