Power Steering Fluid Question

Dous

New member
Okay, so I am aware that Toyota specs ATF III for the power steering fluid. Buuuut, my friend just bought a 4runner and I was checking around looking at things, and it has the actual PS fluid in it. I am thinking okay we will flush it out. The way I usually do it is to siphon out what I can and turn the wheel around a few times and keep repeating this step, until the fluid looks good. My question is, can I do that with his, which would mean mixing ATF with PS fluid. Is there another option? Should I just leave the PS fluid be?

Thanks
 
Register to hide this ad
If it is working fine, I wouldn't mess with it. If it noisy, then change the fluid.



There is probably a hundred more Mods to do on your friends new 4runner.:zoom:
 
If it is working fine, I wouldn't mess with it. If it noisy, then change the fluid.



There is probably a hundred more Mods to do on your friends new 4runner.:zoom:

Haha it's 2wd. Thanks for the help guys, I guess I will just leave it be.
 
Okay, so I am aware that Toyota specs ATF III for the power steering fluid. Buuuut, my friend just bought a 4runner and I was checking around looking at things, and it has the actual PS fluid in it. I am thinking okay we will flush it out. The way I usually do it is to siphon out what I can and turn the wheel around a few times and keep repeating this step, until the fluid looks good. My question is, can I do that with his, which would mean mixing ATF with PS fluid. Is there another option? Should I just leave the PS fluid be?

Thanks
Are you sure that it was actual PS fluid? Over the time ATF fluid that is used for PS in our trucks changes its color and its odor.
 
Are you sure that it was actual PS fluid? Over the time ATF fluid that is used for PS in our trucks changes its color and its odor.

It was yellow and looked brand new, he bought the 4runner at Carmax :lasercannon: I am guessing they probably did it.
 
adding a filter

Hello,

I'm still new here but not new to wrenching. I thought I would share a tip on the steering system. As cars start closing in on $40,000 for a basic car I find myself buying cars with nearly 100,000 miles on them. One thing I do while bringing the maintenance up to date is to flush the PS system. The procedure is easy to do. Lift the front wheels off the ground, disconnect the return hose from the resevior and point it into a bucket or what I prefer is an empty 2 liter pop bottle and with the engine off, turn the wheels from lock to lock until it runs dry. Then fill res. and do it again with a full quart of fluid. This will make sure its all new fluid throughout the system.

Now this next step will either prolong or save your rack and pump. Add an inline Magnefine filter. The filter is one of the best I've found. It has a paper filter element like an oil filter, a big doughnut magnet and a bypass valve should the filter ever get clogged. The paper filters out dirt and the magnet catches the metal bits that wear out the bearings. These are designed for transmissions, so a steering system will never clog this thing. I add this filter to the transmission as well.

I have personally experienced improvement with these fiters. We bought a 2001 Honda civic 4 years ago and I really expected I would have to replace the rack. The steering was rough and noisy. I flushed the fluid and it didn't change much. I added the filter and in one day the steering was smooth. The last three years of the cars life before getting totalled had beautiful steering. The steering system has no filtration from the factory. Adding a $16 filter is cheap insurance.

Filter_with_text.gif
 
Last edited:
@ dr.coffee
I thought it was less then ideal to run the pump dry? Did I misunderstand you?
I'm not trying to be pedantic either, I realize with no weight on the wheels and the pump only being dry for a short period of time its not going to destroy anything. I just thought it was something to be avoided?

Someone want to drop some knowledge on me?
 
+1 on never letting the ps pump run dry (just like one's MC). As long as someone is there to keep it full while the wheels are being turned side to side, one is OK. Otherwise, the procedure is just like how I would do it.

I have never seen a Mag used on a 4runner PS system (would be good insurance no doubt) but use one for my tranny.
 
@ dr.coffee
I thought it was less then ideal to run the pump dry? Did I misunderstand you?
I'm not trying to be pedantic either, I realize with no weight on the wheels and the pump only being dry for a short period of time its not going to destroy anything. I just thought it was something to be avoided?

Someone want to drop some knowledge on me?

You must have missed where I said "with the engine off" The pump should never be RUN dry. With the wheels lifted you can easily turn the steering wheel lock to lock. Once the old fluid is out, refill with new ATF and continue. Once all the old fluid has been purged and you can only see clean fluid, reconnect the return line and continue until the pump is primed again. When you start the engine, be ready to top off the reseviour. When you get the level where it needs to be. Shut it down and let the bubbles settle out. Yea, you do not want to run the engine with no fluid in the pump. Do it all with the motor off.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,056
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top