Preparing a Sitting 4Runner Transmission

[SixxiA]

My 95 has been chilling in the driveway for a long time now, about 2 years. Before that it sat with a locked engine for another year or two in a parking lot in the "good" part of town.

My questions are:
1. The transmission is an automatic 4WD. I know after this much time sitting, the transmission will need a thorough flush and filter change, but I'm unfamiliar with the transfer case and 4WD aspect. What should I do to prepare the transmission for its first drive in 5 years+?

2. All of my window motors are..... pretty shot. I'm sure someone has their input: should I go with OEM (Toyota) parts or aftermarket motors? (Is there any substantial difference in lifespan?)

Thanks for your time!
:thanks:
-Tom

 

[Getsum]

My 95 has been chilling in the driveway for a long time now, about 2 years. Before that it sat with a locked engine for another year or two in a parking lot in the "good" part of town.

My questions are:
1. The transmission is an automatic 4WD. I know after this much time sitting, the transmission will need a thorough flush and filter change, but I'm unfamiliar with the transfer case and 4WD aspect. What should I do to prepare the transmission for its first drive in 5 years+?

2. All of my window motors are..... pretty shot. I'm sure someone has their input: should I go with OEM (Toyota) parts or aftermarket motors? (Is there any substantial difference in lifespan?)

Thanks for your time!
:thanks:
-Tom

Short of a flush and filter change about the only other thing you could do is put it on jackstands and rotate it through to insure its lubricated...pretty much overkill I'd say.

As to the window motors, I'd go down to the junkyard and buy them for next to nothing there; IF you are positive they are all dead...the chances of that are slim. How do you know they're all shot? It doesn't take much to remove and bench check them (three bolts on the motor plus pilling the door cards). It could be that all the lubrication of the internal track parts has dried up and caused them to bind; I'd start with the bench check first then move on to see what is keeping the window from moving...the more likely suspect.

 

[SixxiA]

Short of a flush and filter change about the only other thing you could do is put it on jackstands and rotate it through to insure its lubricated...pretty much overkill I'd say.

As to the window motors, I'd go down to the junkyard and buy them for next to nothing there; IF you are positive they are all dead...the chances of that are slim. How do you know they're all shot? It doesn't take much to remove and bench check them (three bolts on the motor plus pilling the door cards). It could be that all the lubrication of the internal track parts has dried up and caused them to bind; I'd start with the bench check first then move on to see what is keeping the window from moving...the more likely suspect.

Good to hear that Toyo used bolts, not rivets. I'll pull the back two motors first, as they're the ones that get used the least but are both in "for-shit" condition and won't roll the window down all the way.

I'll have a shop proceed with the tranny flush as planned then. Guess we'll find out what condition the transmission is in on the first drive.

Thanks!

-Tom

 

[Getsum]

Good to hear that Toyo used bolts, not rivets. I'll pull the back two motors first, as they're the ones that get used the least but are both in "for-shit" condition and won't roll the window down all the way.

I'll have a shop proceed with the tranny flush as planned then. Guess we'll find out what condition the transmission is in on the first drive.

Thanks!

-Tom

Could be that the fronts are binding up too. Just because a motor won't roll the window down all the way doesn't mean its shot. These motors are only rated for so much power... linkage that's bound up, broken track rollers/slides or gummed up latches (all common occurrences if the vehicle has been sitting for years) could give you the indication of a bad motor while the problem lies elsewhere. I was always taught that you work your way from the obvious (usually cheapest) to the more in depth (usually most expensive).

I just fixed my rear window problem, a problem that the previous owner tried to hide by disconnecting switches and fuses. How did I do it? I read the threads here and systematically excluded each part of the system until the only thing left was the bad part...cost me $10 bucks at a junkyard. The rear window works like a charm now...now about that oil leak...parts are on order and I'm getting ready to rip off the top of the engine:ak472:

 

[03vrod]

Talk to a good trans shop about changing the fluid.We use a machine to change the fluid out.The city and county police cars and other vehicles use this now.They will not let you drop the pan.I've seen cars drive in a shop and have to be pushed out.I know a lot of shops that won't do this service without you signing a form releasing them from responsibility.If it's new and done routinely I think the conventional way is ok but for a high mileage old trans talk to a few reputable shops and get some opinions before dropping the pan.

 

[Getsum]

Talk to a good trans shop about changing the fluid.We use a machine to change the fluid out.The city and county police cars and other vehicles use this now.They will not let you drop the pan.I've seen cars drive in a shop and have to be pushed out.I know a lot of shops that won't do this service without you signing a form releasing them from responsibility.If it's new and done routinely I think the conventional way is ok but for a high mileage old trans talk to a few reputable shops and get some opinions before dropping the pan.

Could you delve into what you said a bit deeper? I have ordered all my transmission seals and filter and was getting ready to drop the pan to change out the parts as the trannny is often the most overlooked part of any vehicle. Why would doing so result in damaging the tranny? Mine has high mileage on it as well.