Preventive Maintenance for Overland Rig

[Toy2play]

I've got a 97 4runner with 139k miles that I use for overlanding a bit. Run just under 3" lift with 255/85 tires and running a supercharger. I've regularly gone on solo trips that cover 500-1000 miles, some parts being very remote. I do carry a Inreach satellite messenger when I do these trips so I'm always in contact with people. I only had one experience that left me stranded and thankfully it was in a place where I was able to get a flat bed trailer out to. My starter went out out of nowhere and wasn't able to fix it out in the field so now I carry a spare cause I'm paranoid. At the time I didnt know for certain it was the starter.

My question to everyone is what is a list of parts that I could replace as preventive maintenance so that I limit the chances of something not working when I'm in remote places. I've already replaced a lot of parts on the runner, but I see threads all the time where a sensor or part goes out and they cant get their runner to start. I'd like to carry or at the very least replace common things that can incapacitate a runner. I run dual batteries and all of my accessories run off the secondary battery. Run a scan gauge to monitor various things.

Just off the top of my head that I can think of, within the last 25k miles I've replaced:
Starter
Lower ball joints
Radiator
Plugs and wires
Fuel filter
Upper control arms
Inner and outer tie rods
Clutch fan
Regularly change all fluids, grease fittings
Done the TBU
Run an aux tranny cooler
Air filter
Water pump and timing belt
Thermostat and flush coolant
CS-144 alternator
All belts
Extended diff breathers


What should I be replacing and what could I carry that would eliminate a good chance of being stranded?

 

[Bad Luck]

I would check your rear axle seals and valve cover gaskets. You can check your rear axle seals very easily by putting the rear axle on jack stands, removing the abs sensor, and spinning the tire while looking at the abs tone ring. If there is a leak the tone ring should pick the fluid up and you'll be able to see it on the abs tone ring, or if there is fluid on the abs sensor that's an indicator as well. If you replaced the axle seals before they leak too much then you don't have to worry about rear shoes getting contaminated or your rear axle wheel bearings getting washed out.

 

[mtbtim]

Sounds like your rig is in good mechanical condition. I can’t really offer anything else for you to replace that could leave you stranded but I can offer what I bring along on wheeling trips to hopefully get me out of a bad situation.

1) Recovery Gear - winch, tow strap, tree strap, shackles, pulley, max trax boards, shovel
2) Air compressor - either on-board or portable
3) Tire Repair kit
4) Fluids - engine oil, coolant, ATF, gear oil, brake fluid
5) Used ballpoints (uppers and lowers), both metal and rubber front brake lines, both outer tie rods, cv axle. The reason for all this is in case I have a lower ball joint failure. Everything listed could be destroyed if a LBJ failed. Basically, this is the worst failure I can think of out in the field because you can’t even be towed out by someone if you don’t have all 4 tires on the ground.
6) All the tools to handle a LBJ failure. Ball joint press and adapters, pullers, CV axle socket, breaker bar or impact gun, etc.
7) Extra fuses and relays - you could snag these at a wrecking yard like PicknPull.
8) Some type of diagnostic tool like a scan gauge or phone app like Torque Pro that you can pull info from your OBDII port if you get a check engine light.

That’s all I can think of for now. I’m sure others will chime in with what they carry.

 

[Toy2play]

I would check your rear axle seals and valve cover gaskets. You can check your rear axle seals very easily by putting the rear axle on jack stands, removing the abs sensor, and spinning the tire while looking at the abs tone ring. If there is a leak the tone ring should pick the fluid up and you'll be able to see it on the abs tone ring, or if there is fluid on the abs sensor that's an indicator as well. If you replaced the axle seals before they leak too much then you don't have to worry about rear shoes getting contaminated or your rear axle wheel bearings getting washed out.

Thanks for bring this up. Replaced both rear seals, bearings and brake shoes. Also have replaced both pinion seals and 1 cv axle seal as well in the front since it was leaking.

Sounds like your rig is in good mechanical condition. I can’t really offer anything else for you to replace that could leave you stranded but I can offer what I bring along on wheeling trips to hopefully get me out of a bad situation.

1) Recovery Gear - winch, tow strap, tree strap, shackles, pulley, max trax boards, shovel
2) Air compressor - either on-board or portable
3) Tire Repair kit
4) Fluids - engine oil, coolant, ATF, gear oil, brake fluid
5) Used ballpoints (uppers and lowers), both metal and rubber front brake lines, both outer tie rods, cv axle. The reason for all this is in case I have a lower ball joint failure. Everything listed could be destroyed if a LBJ failed. Basically, this is the worst failure I can think of out in the field because you can’t even be towed out by someone if you don’t have all 4 tires on the ground.
6) All the tools to handle a LBJ failure. Ball joint press and adapters, pullers, CV axle socket, breaker bar or impact gun, etc.
7) Extra fuses and relays - you could snag these at a wrecking yard like PicknPull.
8) Some type of diagnostic tool like a scan gauge or phone app like Torque Pro that you can pull info from your OBDII port if you get a check engine light.

That’s all I can think of for now. I’m sure others will chime in with what they carry.

1- have all of that
2- have both on board air as well as a portable compressor that clips onto the battery. Makes filling up tires twice as quick.
3- check
4- check
5- good points, I do have the original parts, just haven't brought them with me.
6- have most of this included except an extra cv axle. I'm locked front and rear but I've been very hesitate to even use the front locker since I've heard stories of cv axles breaking. I'll be buying an extra one. I need to find out if one cv axle can cover both sides. I will be keeping a spare axle in the vehicle.
7- check
8-check, have both torque app installed with bluetooth dongle, plus a scan gauge on the steering wheel.

Thank you for posting this list. I really appreciate it. I'm also curious if how often I should be changing the lower ball joint if I'm spending a good amount of miles offroad. Since i installed new ones, I'm sure i have 3 or 4k of offroad miles on them, maybe 15-20k in total miles. If I'm replacing the lowerball joint often, I wonder if I should bother bringing a spare.

Isnt there parts like the idle air control valve or something else that can keep it from starting/running? Curious if there are some of these types of sensors that can go bad and leaves you stranded.

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks for bring this up. Replaced both rear seals, bearings and brake shoes. Also have replaced both pinion seals and 1 cv axle seal as well in the front since it was leaking.


1- have all of that
2- have both on board air as well as a portable compressor that clips onto the battery. Makes filling up tires twice as quick.
3- check
4- check
5- good points, I do have the original parts, just haven't brought them with me.
6- have most of this included except an extra cv axle. I'm locked front and rear but I've been very hesitate to even use the front locker since I've heard stories of cv axles breaking. I'll be buying an extra one. I need to find out if one cv axle can cover both sides. I will be keeping a spare axle in the vehicle.
7- check
8-check, have both torque app installed with bluetooth dongle, plus a scan gauge on the steering wheel.

Thank you for posting this list. I really appreciate it. I'm also curious if how often I should be changing the lower ball joint if I'm spending a good amount of miles offroad. Since i installed new ones, I'm sure i have 3 or 4k of offroad miles on them, maybe 15-20k in total miles. If I'm replacing the lowerball joint often, I wonder if I should bother bringing a spare.

Isnt there parts like the idle air control valve or something else that can keep it from starting/running? Curious if there are some of these types of sensors that can go bad and leaves you stranded.

One cv axle is sufficient. They are both the same size.

I plan on replacing LBJs every 100k. If you really pound on your rig, maybe every 50k would be prudent. I would still bring LBJ trail spares even if you’re replacing them frequently for the reason I originally stated. A failure will leave you stranded until you can go get one and swap it out.

There’s lots of other things that can leave you stranded like a fuel pump failure and you can’t cover everything unless you want to tow a spare truck behind you for parts. The LBJ is the one I’m most concerned with since one of your buddies or another Good Samaritan can’t even tow you out to an area a tow truck will pick you up at.

 

[Toy2play]

One cv axle is sufficient. They are both the same size.

I plan on replacing LBJs every 100k. If you really pound on your rig, maybe every 50k would be prudent. I would still bring LBJ trail spares even if you’re replacing them frequently for the reason I originally stated. A failure will leave you stranded until you can go get one and swap it out.

There’s lots of other things that can leave you stranded like a fuel pump failure and you can’t cover everything unless you want to tow a spare truck behind you for parts. The LBJ is the one I’m most concerned with since one of your buddies or another Good Samaritan can’t even tow you out to an area a tow truck will pick you up at.

Very good points. I'll add the LBJ to the list. Funny enough I have another fuel pump that came with my 7th injector that I never installed, dont seem to need it right now. I figured that any part that I can replace beforehand, I'd start doing that since I'm at ~140k miles. Keep some of troubling parts on hand in case it breaks on trail. Like you stated, the cv axle and the LBJ will be added. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[Moonbandit]

I say to include an alternator - I now carry an OEM spare at all times - I had one break down on me while on a 1,000 mile + trip. Ended up getting one at autozone - only for that "new one" to break down on my less than 50 miles later. Went back to OEM - been fine ever since - but now I'm paranoid so I carry a spare. Wish I had a dual battery setup as well -- in time.

 

[thezentree]

Do you have SPC UCAs? If so, you might consider carrying a set of spare SPC UBJs. The lead time to get them is sometimes measured in weeks. I've not heard of someone breaking one so far, but I don't want to be stuck as a result.

 

[repo]

A spare ignition key! Hidden somewhere on the vehicle.

 

[Wildman Wells]

Nice low mileage on your 97.

 

[Toy2play]

I say to include an alternator - I now carry an OEM spare at all times - I had one break down on me while on a 1,000 mile + trip. Ended up getting one at autozone - only for that "new one" to break down on my less than 50 miles later. Went back to OEM - been fine ever since - but now I'm paranoid so I carry a spare. Wish I had a dual battery setup as well -- in time.

Yep on my last trip I took my original alternator with me. If that happened to me, I'd do the same thing. Appreciate the input.

A spare ignition key! Hidden somewhere on the vehicle.

Check

Do you have SPC UCAs? If so, you might consider carrying a set of spare SPC UBJs. The lead time to get them is sometimes measured in weeks. I've not heard of someone breaking one so far, but I don't want to be stuck as a result.

I just got mine installed. If lead time is that long on the ball joint then probably good to have them on hand. Thanks for the heads up.

Nice low mileage on your 97.

Appreciate that. Bought it with 115k miles about 7 years ago. She pushed me to mountain bike, hike, camp and overland a lot more.

 

[repo]

Some random stuff I can think of on top of what's probably been mentioned.

PM:

• Radiator hoses including the ones to transmission.
• Inspect the rear heater lines closely.
• Replace gas cap and keep old one for a spare. A new oem cap barely costs more than a new seal.
• Radiator cap.
• Vacuum hoses (might as well).
• Lube ignition cylinder (I nearly got stuck when mine got sand in it).
• Fuel pump/suction assembly.
• Fuel filter.
• Maybe put a bit anti-seize on the wheel hubs so you know the wheels will come off easy.
• Check sparks plugs are torqued all the way and no loose ones.

Stuff to carry:

• Self-fusing silicone tape (for hoses).
• Zip ties obviously.
• Gorilla tape.
• Bailing wire.
• Electrical tape.
• Paracord.
• Gear oil pump (the right size for the oil jug!).
• A funnel that can fit in the ATF tube.
• Radiator/fuel tank repair epoxy.
• Tire plug kit.
• Couple lightweight wheel chocks.
• Bulbs, fuses
• Battery booster like a NOCO
• Spare inflator (the actual inflator attachment).
• Traction boards, shovel, maybe an axe.
• Warning triangles or those LED flasher things, maybe a hi-viz vest.
• A lifestraw type water filter.
• The FSM PDF files on a phone or tablet.
• Bluetooth OBD2 reader.

 

[thezentree]

A spare ignition key! Hidden somewhere on the vehicle.

Username checks out.

eep:

 

[theesotericone]

[MENTION=143467]Toy2play[/MENTION]

It seems like you're trying to cover all the bases. It also seems like you've got them covered. As far as preventative maintenance goes you're done.

Now the question is how much shit do you want to carry with you?

Unless you plan on towing a trailer there's no way you will ever be able to carry everything you need. Front and rear differentials can easily blow. CV axles can snap like twigs. It's even possible to throw a rod in the motor.

Now let's talk about what actually breaks.

If you're pushing your rig hard your CVs will blow. Bring two of them.
The other most likely failure isn't your lower ball joint it's the bolts that hold it to the spindle. Upgrade those too grade 10.9 or 12.9 if you can find them. Install them with red loctite. I know this because I have two welded spindles.

The other thing you really want to look into especially considering you have two batteries is a field weld the kit. For less than 80 bucks you can have the ability to weld stuff together to get off of the trail.

 

[Toy2play]

[MENTION=143467]Toy2play[/MENTION]

It seems like you're trying to cover all the bases. It also seems like you've got them covered. As far as preventative maintenance goes you're done.

Now the question is how much shit do you want to carry with you?

Unless you plan on towing a trailer there's no way you will ever be able to carry everything you need. Front and rear differentials can easily blow. CV axles can snap like twigs. It's even possible to throw a rod in the motor.

Now let's talk about what actually breaks.

If you're pushing your rig hard your CVs will blow. Bring two of them.
The other most likely failure isn't your lower ball joint it's the bolts that hold it to the spindle. Upgrade those too grade 10.9 or 12.9 if you can find them. Install them with red loctite. I know this because I have two welded spindles.

The other thing you really want to look into especially considering you have two batteries is a field weld the kit. For less than 80 bucks you can have the ability to weld stuff together to get off of the trail.

That's kinda why I wanted to make this thread. I know I cant carry everything. I can start replacing things before hand to lessen the chance of something failing. I like your way of thinking. I mean most things that break, you can limp to somewhere you can get fixed. When I'm completely alone out in the remote places, I change my habits and try to be very careful. I try not to bite off more than I can chew.

Some items you can do preventative maintenance beforehand, some are good ideas to take while out on the trail. I appreciate the advice. I hadn't thought about a welding kit. It would be interesting to hear what others have broken that has left them stuck, regardless if it was at home or on the trail.

The main goal is to look at the bigger picture and find what is most valuable to take with you. At the same time you dont want to bring everything and the kitchen sink, overload your rig and snap an axle shaft cause of it. This thread was to bounce ideas around and hear others from their personal experience. Great discussion so far.

 

[Toy2play]

Some random stuff I can think of on top of what's probably been mentioned.

PM:

• Radiator hoses including the ones to transmission.
• Inspect the rear heater lines closely.
• Replace gas cap and keep old one for a spare. A new oem cap barely costs more than a new seal.
• Radiator cap.
• Vacuum hoses (might as well).
• Lube ignition cylinder (I nearly got stuck when mine got sand in it).
• Fuel pump/suction assembly.
• Fuel filter.
• Maybe put a bit anti-seize on the wheel hubs so you know the wheels will come off easy.
• Check sparks plugs are torqued all the way and no loose ones.

Stuff to carry:

• Self-fusing silicone tape (for hoses).
• Zip ties obviously.
• Gorilla tape.
• Bailing wire.
• Electrical tape.
• Paracord.
• Gear oil pump (the right size for the oil jug!).
• A funnel that can fit in the ATF tube.
• Radiator/fuel tank repair epoxy.
• Tire plug kit.
• Couple lightweight wheel chocks.
• Bulbs, fuses
• Battery booster like a NOCO
• Spare inflator (the actual inflator attachment).
• Traction boards, shovel, maybe an axe.
• Warning triangles or those LED flasher things, maybe a hi-viz vest.
• A lifestraw type water filter.
• The FSM PDF files on a phone or tablet.
• Bluetooth OBD2 reader.

All good suggestions, one thing I made sure I had was some a few inches of tubing that i put on the oil diff bottle. The front diff was such a pain in the ass to fill in the bush.