Price my rig - and other questions

Myrunr2010

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So at some point in the next year or so, I think I’m gonna be selling my 4Runner (gotta get the mr2 sold first). I’ve been reluctant to for years because I love driving stick, and there’s not many newer options, but I’m warming up to the idea of losing a pedal and buying a tundra. Anyways, looking for some help with how to price my 4Runner.

One of the big pre-pricing questions I’ve got - should I leave the turbo on or pull the turbo off and sell it “stock”. I know having the turbo on likely narrows the market a little bit, but it might be getting to that point of being old enough and modified enough that people are excited for mods like that?

Anyways. The deets:
It’s a 97, manual, 265,000 on it.
Tundra/LC lift with 2” body lift
Bilstein 5100’s
BFG AT2’s
Custom front and rear bumpers
Custom grill
Curt roof basket with low profile mount
Wet oakle seat covers (just fronts)
Double din stereo with backup cam
Weather tech floor mats all around
Turbo set to 7psi.
 

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Take this with a grain of salt, but for me with your turbo build being more custom than off the shelf AND it not being on for very long I would subtract whatever it would cost me to undo the turbo stuff and return to factory from the value. For me it is still an unproven turbo system that will still probably need more tweaking and tuning. The entire setup may have a catastrophic failure because of some minor part missing/not tuned correctly/failing.
 
Take this with a grain of salt, but for me with your turbo build being more custom than off the shelf AND it not being on for very long I would subtract whatever it would cost me to undo the turbo stuff and return to factory from the value. For me it is still an unproven turbo system that will still probably need more tweaking and tuning. The entire setup may have a catastrophic failure because of some minor part missing/not tuned correctly/failing.

No grains needed, that’s the type of feedback I’m looking for. The only cost to undo it is the time to unbolt everything and put the stock stuff back on.

I will say though, it’s pretty basic, the only catastrophic failure I can really foresee is from pushing 7psi through a motor with 265k on it.
 
No grains needed, that’s the type of feedback I’m looking for. The only cost to undo it is the time to unbolt everything and put the stock stuff back on.

I will say though, it’s pretty basic, the only catastrophic failure I can really foresee is from pushing 7psi through a motor with 265k on it.
I'm more worried of a turbo failure causing the motor to inhale metal. Quality of turbo and the oiling system for the turbo are both factors for turbo failure from my point of view. Since you don't have much invested in the turbo setup, you may consider selling it with the option of returning it to factory for the buyer. At the very least including the factory parts to convert it back would look attractive in an ad.

As a disclaimer for anyone else reading this I have some turbo experience (1991 and 1992 galant vr4 owner) but not enough to consider myself able to give advice on what to get or not to get.
 
Newport News? My old stomping grounds, more or less. Grew up in VB, but left the area in the late 80's even though I am back somewhat regularly.

Yours is a nice looking T43G. Pix of the engine bay is always helpful and asking this question when selling is a couple weeks out makes more sense IMO. A year out price is of no value today.

Whatever it sells for, 3G values seem to be rising for well cared for examples even if the mileage is high as folks know what great vehicles they are.

Good luck,

Eddie
 
I was thinking of listing it around 5k. I’m concerned that it’s too much, but not sure
I'm not familiar with your area pricing, but around me that would be a 7k-8k vehicle without the turbo kit. Manual transmission, lifted, front and rear bumpers, plus the basket.
 
I agree that you should remove the turbo as most equate that with more maintenance and more wear and tear rightfully so, I would shine it up, make sure it's complete with all factory parts if rust free ask for $7000 obo at least and negotiate from there, or leave the turbo on and shoot for the same price and see, easy to go down in price if it doesn't get any interest, and it sounds like you have lots of time. If you keep it on the road and have it inspected for a safety pass and test drives you will have an easier time selling as upose to an as-is sale, of course some cities will need to pass emissions as well.
 
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