Problem Starting (1999 4Runner)

takumi

New member
I have a 1999 4Runner Limited 3.4L v6 automatic w/ 250,000 miles

I recently replaced the battery. Battery terminals are new. I also recently replaced the starter.

The 4Runner starts fine when it's been sitting over night. It runs strong as long as i don't shut it off. Once I shut it off, it won't start again until it's been sitting for several hours and it's cold.

Things I notice when it won't turn over:

1. dash lights come on only

2. no key chime noise when key is in the ignition

3. electric door locks act funny. when you push the door lock button, the door locks go up and down, but but not all of them go completely down. But when I first start the vehicle the door locks go up and down like normal and you hear the solid clicking noise when you lock and unlock the door locks.

I'm thinking this is an electric problem somewhere in the vehicle, I just don't know where to begin to diagnose this problem.

Any ideas?
 
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I have a 1999 4Runner Limited 3.4L v6 automatic w/ 250,000 miles

I recently replaced the battery. Battery terminals are new. I also recently replaced the starter.

The 4Runner starts fine when it's been sitting over night. It runs strong as long as i don't shut it off. Once I shut it off, it won't start again until it's been sitting for several hours and it's cold.

Things I notice when it won't turn over:

1. dash lights come on only

2. no key chime noise when key is in the ignition

3. electric door locks act funny. when you push the door lock button, the door locks go up and down, but but not all of them go completely down. But when I first start the vehicle the door locks go up and down like normal and you hear the solid clicking noise when you lock and unlock the door locks.

I'm thinking this is an electric problem somewhere in the vehicle, I just don't know where to begin to diagnose this problem.

Any ideas?

Well depending on your skill level, this should be easy. As with any electrical problem, you start with the easiest things first. Sadly that means the two things you are assuming are not the problem. The battery and the terminals. Now saying they are new or have been replaced means absolutely nothing to me or anyone diagnosing a problem. New parts fail too!

When the vehicle won't start, you need to check voltage at the battery, at the fuse block, and possibly at the starter. Can you do that? In advance you can have the battery tested, and check the cables for corrosion, not just on the surface but in between the copper strands.
 
hmmm, thanks for the suggestions.

I'm not good at diagnostics.

I may need to take it to a shop and have a professional do the diagnostics
 
hmmm, thanks for the suggestions.

I'm not good at diagnostics.

I may need to take it to a shop and have a professional do the diagnostics
Not quite yet.
First, buy this.

When it arrives in the mail, respond to this post and we'll guide you on the next step. Electrical stuff is very easy, and we're going to show you how. So, get on it!
 
I may get out there tomorrow and replace all of the fuses. Then run the truck for an hour, shut it off and then try to start it. If it starts, i will run it for another hour and shut it off and try to start it.

And then go from there...
 
I had a similar problem, tossed in a new battery, it killed it and ultimately, it ended up being the alternator. Prep the wallet.
 
I may get out there tomorrow and replace all of the fuses. Then run the truck for an hour, shut it off and then try to start it. If it starts, i will run it for another hour and shut it off and try to start it.

And then go from there...
That's just a shotgun approach. I really advise getting the proper tool to actually diagnose it. My money is on a bad connection, and we could find out in 10 mins with a multimeter.
 
I'm sure you're right. The problem is I don't know how to use a multi-meter and more importantly when it comes to the bad connection I don't know what I'm looking for.

I appreciate all of the suggestions.

Since I don't have expertise when it comes to trouble shooting electrical problems and bad connections, I think it's best I take it to a shop.

I'm better at replacing parts then I am at trouble shooting.

That's just a shotgun approach. I really advise getting the proper tool to actually diagnose it. My money is on a bad connection, and we could find out in 10 mins with a multimeter.
 
What is the brand of the battery? (autozone batteries are junk) NAPA or OEM are the best.
I think your battery stops working when the engine compartment is HOT.

There is no need to replace any fuses.

If the dash lights come one poorly, then the voltage in the battery is low.

Do you see a battery sign on the dash while the engine is running? This shows NO CHARGING.
 
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I'm sure you're right. The problem is I don't know how to use a multi-meter and more importantly when it comes to the bad connection I don't know what I'm looking for.

I appreciate all of the suggestions.

Since I don't have expertise when it comes to trouble shooting electrical problems and bad connections, I think it's best I take it to a shop.

I'm better at replacing parts then I am at trouble shooting.
You can lead a horse to water... Lol, it's your call. I can teach you in two seconds how to use a multimeter. You won't mess anything up, and only stand to learn a bunch and save a huge amount of money.
 
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^^^^ You'll save a lot by simply using a volt meter.

How about getting a battery volt reader that plugs right into the cigarette lighter socket?
 
^^^^ You'll save a lot by simply using a volt meter.

How about getting a battery volt reader that plugs right into the cigarette lighter socket?
A multimeter is as cheap as $5 for a unit from Harbor Freight, and is so versatile in what it can do.
 
Take Absalom's advise and help A little bit of money and effort now and it will help you the rest of your life and save you literally thousand of dollars and lots of time on more than just vehicles. Knowledge is everything, make the effort
 
I'm sure you're right. The problem is I don't know how to use a multi-meter and more importantly when it comes to the bad connection I don't know what I'm looking for.

I appreciate all of the suggestions.

Since I don't have expertise when it comes to trouble shooting electrical problems and bad connections, I think it's best I take it to a shop.

I'm better at replacing parts then I am at trouble shooting.

Dude, I get it. I'm pretty much an electrical tard and these types of issues seem a little daunting to figure out. But, I bought myself a multimeter and have used it so far to check my battery voltage and the check the output of my charging system.

Make the investment in a multimeter and accept the offer for some help unless you really like paying shop hourly fees anywhere from $100-$150/hr.

Here's the multimeter I bought via Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DUH9VT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bad reviews were all complaints about the unit not coming with a battery and the instruction manual not written in English. Yes, I had to buy a battery, big deal. My instruction manual was written in English so no problem there.
 

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