Problems after changing oil

I drained the pan just above where the two skid plates meet

That sounds correct. The ATF pan is further back.

Do you think you have an issue with spark/ignition. Maybe an ignition coil went bad. Do you have any CEL (codes)?
 
No CEL. That is what is weird. It was running fine before the oil change. I didn't mess with anything other than changing the filters and oil, so don't know why the dramatic difference in performance. So this is my list I will check: re-clean MAF, look for vacuum leaks, double check electrical connections, put gas in the truck, recheck oil and transmission fluid levels and possibly look into fuel filter replacement.

I have searched the forum and others have described the exact problem I am having but never report back as to what was the cause. Frustrating. I will definitely report back if I find the cause. Hopefully its something small, inexpensive and something I brain farted on or something.
 
First of all, SYNTHETIC isn't always best. A lot of times salespeople in auto stores never mention these things but synthetic is mainly for newer engines. I am actually surprised no one mentioned this but if you run standard oil through the life of the motor and then buy synthetic, what it will do is break loose all carbon material on the linings of the engine and hoses and clog up mechanical parts. When converting to synthetic oil, some say it takes up to 3 oil filters to filter out all the waste being kicked up. Bleed it and return to standard high mileage oil and your noise should stop. I will gladly take disputes.
 
Also, as far as accidently draining transmission versus oil, it happens all the time. What I tell people is follow your engine block and underneath it will be the bolt to drain the oil. If you see your transmission(further back), you will drain trasmission fluid, sounds silly but not as silly as putting oil in your transmission. Also, tranny fluid is pink, and even at its worst, its a dark red. Good luck bud!
 
First of all, SYNTHETIC isn't always best. A lot of times salespeople in auto stores never mention these things but synthetic is mainly for newer engines. I am actually surprised no one mentioned this but if you run standard oil through the life of the motor and then buy synthetic, what it will do is break loose all carbon material on the linings of the engine and hoses and clog up mechanical parts. When converting to synthetic oil, some say it takes up to 3 oil filters to filter out all the waste being kicked up. Bleed it and return to standard high mileage oil and your noise should stop. I will gladly take disputes.

The detergents in synthetic oil will not cause immediate issues like the OP is describing, there's just no way. And the symptom is "sputtering up hills", not noises, just to clarify. The worst thing changing to synthetic can do is cause oil leaks where seals were toast but deposits were holding them together, and that's due to the seals being worn out, not because synthetic oil has wrecked anything.
 
It sounds like bad gas; the oil change just coincided at the same time.

Get yourself a can of Chevron Techron, pour it in the tank before filling it and see what happens.

Also, do you remove any wires or the like when pouring the oil into the engine?
 
Sounds more like you knocked a vacuum line loose. Can you hear any hissing under the hood?

It sputters while idling in park and below 2000rpms.

Acts like a vacuum leak to me as well-all the classic symptoms. Check all the hoses, big and small. You probably knocked one loose, or have a broken hose.

With the engine running, get under the hood and carefully look around.

Good Luck!
 
The detergents in synthetic oil will not cause immediate issues like the OP is describing, there's just no way. And the symptom is "sputtering up hills", not noises, just to clarify. The worst thing changing to synthetic can do is cause oil leaks where seals were toast but deposits were holding them together, and that's due to the seals being worn out, not because synthetic oil has wrecked anything.

I never said synthetic would "wreck" anything. I was essentially stating what you were, that synthetic oil kicks up debris in hoses/lines, although, it will cause problems. Synthetic oil can causes issues related to engine trouble and intermittent sputtering. And YES, synthetic oil will cause IMMEDIATE issues. synthetic oil is mildly thinner than conventional oil, seeing as it has no wax. Faster flow through lines will pick up that debris and run it straight through his engine. Going up hills are harder on an engine and would make it perform harder. And my idea was a suggestion, not a pinpoint solution to his problem, just to clarify. Carbon and metals reside in engine oil, remember this.

Sorry if that sounded hasty IanB, Im just jealous you have a Hilux Surf and I don't.
 
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Update: It just blew a couple CEL. I went to had them scanned and they were coded P0300 and P0304. I am going to remove the MAF sensor and start with a good cleaning then see how it goes. I filled the tank and it was still sputtering so I know its not the low fuel level.

Autozone says P0304: cylinder 4 misfired, weak/missing spark, plugged fuel injector, engine mechanical fault, large vacuum leak specific to cylinder
P0300: lean air/fuel ratio- fuel pump, faulty MAF, large vacuum leak, ignition system fault.

I guess it can be any of the above. If anyone has had these CEL codes let me know what you had.
 
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Just about to reply to your thread when I read the lost post. It is definitely sounding like the MAF. A buddy of mine's truck did the exact saem...shortly after oiling his TRD filter. Careful the MAF's are very finicky.

Oh, and auto parts stores sell MAF cleaners, too.
 
I never said synthetic would "wreck" anything. I was essentially stating what you were, that synthetic oil kicks up debris in hoses/lines, although, it will cause problems. Synthetic oil can causes issues related to engine trouble and intermittent sputtering. And YES, synthetic oil will cause IMMEDIATE issues. synthetic oil is mildly thinner than conventional oil, seeing as it has no wax. Faster flow through lines will pick up that debris and run it straight through his engine. Going up hills are harder on an engine and would make it perform harder. And my idea was a suggestion, not a pinpoint solution to his problem, just to clarify. Carbon and metals reside in engine oil, remember this.

Sorry if that sounded hasty IanB, Im just jealous you have a Hilux Surf and I don't.

Had, it was taken from me long before I was done with it, just getting started actually.:sobbing:

The detergents in synthetic oil don't cause the deposits to just peel off in big chunks, it dissolves them slowly, they will be suspended in the oil just like the carbons and metal particles. The thinness of the oil may allow it to flow faster, but it will also decrease the oil pressure, I think that's a wash as far as this is concerned.
 
Just triple check and clean the MAF, check all your plug wires.
This has absolutely zero to do with synthetic however.
 
I cleaned the MAF really well and it did nothing. I called up my mechanic and had him check it out. Looks like the timing belt threw a couple teeth, slipped and threw off the timing of the engine. Also, said the cam sensor was bad, so it lasted 138K miles but it was the original timing belt. I just bought the 4r and was saving up to have it done but this is gonna wipe out my emergency fund.
 
At least you know what the problem is, this was something that needed to be done anyways, and you knew it. It sucks that it wipes out your emergency fund, but having the work done is better than having the money ready IMO. Lower balljoints and rad or external tranny cooler should be next up.

If you are capable of doing the work yourself, you could likely bang off the timing belt, add an external tranny cooler, and the LBJ's with the money you have saved.
 

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