pulling the front diff

FrankM23

New member
I've searched this site but couldn't find much. Someone school me please. Are there any write-ups to pulling the front diff.
 
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I've searched this site but couldn't find much. Someone school me please. Are there any write-ups to pulling the front diff.

1. Remove the Tires
2. undo the 4 bolts in each balljoint
3. knock the axle back thru the wheelbearing
4. use a 3lb sledge and a chisel or something similar and knock the axles out of the diff.
(spin the axle a 1/5 a turn after every few strikes to get the C-clip to release)
5. Undo all 4 bolts on the driveshaft/flange just above the steering rack, those are circled in Green, you will need to put a wrench on the back to hold the bolt.
6. there are a few vacuum hoses on 96-98 models for the vacuum power ADD, undo those from either the top side kinda by the battery, or down at the diff. those are in Yellow.
7. there is a plug that tells the actuator when to move the collar, unplug that That is in blue
8. there are 3 bolts, 2 right up front that you cant miss, and then one hex key in the crossmember right near the steering rack. those are circled/arrowed in Red.

tada, you have the diff released and it will mostly fall out... make sure not to drop it.

Ill add some pics here shortly

EDIT: Keep in mind the diff is on its back right here, the two main diff bolts are right in front when you take off your skid, you cant miss them.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pTKsd8o2i-L-qEFzo63-I9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4ZwUOnnRWYg/T4a9YyG-tLI/AAAAAAAAEjY/wlpotNvDlnU/s800/diff%2520edit%2520pic.jpg" height="540" width="720" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106779729868072622389/4runnerBuild?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">4runner Build</a></td></tr></table>
 
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You are going to also have to twist/rotate it and just work at it to get it past your oil pan and to get the flange up over the axle. Once you find the sweet spot, itll drop out.
 
gentlemen, to you I say thanks lol. I'll actually be installing the diff onto my runner. It's a tacoma diff with no ADD so well see what little surprises I've got. I'm sure the only differences really are the ADD components. Thanks guys.
 
1. Remove the Tires
2. undo the 4 bolts in each balljoint
3. knock the axle back thru the wheelbearing
4. use a 3lb sledge and a chisel or something similar and knock the axles out of the diff.
(spin the axle a 1/5 a turn after every few strikes to get the C-clip to release)
5. Undo all 4 bolts on the driveshaft/flange just above the steering rack, those are circled in Green, you will need to put a wrench on the back to hold the bolt.
6. there are a few vacuum hoses on 96-98 models for the vacuum power ADD, undo those from either the top side kinda by the battery, or down at the diff. those are in Yellow.
7. there is a plug that tells the actuator when to move the collar, unplug that That is in blue
8. there are 3 bolts, 2 right up front that you cant miss, and then one hex key in the crossmember right near the steering rack. those are circled/arrowed in Red.

tada, you have the diff released and it will mostly fall out... make sure not to drop it.

Ill add some pics here shortly

EDIT: Keep in mind the diff is on its back right here, the two main diff bolts are right in front when you take off your skid, you cant miss them.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pTKsd8o2i-L-qEFzo63-I9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4ZwUOnnRWYg/T4a9YyG-tLI/AAAAAAAAEjY/wlpotNvDlnU/s800/diff%2520edit%2520pic.jpg" height="540" width="720" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106779729868072622389/4runnerBuild?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">4runner Build</a></td></tr></table>
i know this is an old post, but I'm having difficulty getting my front differential out. I've got it plenty loose, and both axles removed. The hex bolt seems to hold it too high against the cross member and then the drive shaft flange hangs up on the edge of the transmission/bell housing. The flange is also hitting part of the rack/pinion that the lines come into, so I might possibly have to unbolt the rack and pinion to let the flange by. Anybody have any tips for me. I'm getting a bit frustrated. Thanks!
 
i know this is an old post, but I'm having difficulty getting my front differential out. I've got it plenty loose, and both axles removed. The hex bolt seems to hold it too high against the cross member and then the drive shaft flange hangs up on the edge of the transmission/bell housing. The flange is also hitting part of the rack/pinion that the lines come into, so I might possibly have to unbolt the rack and pinion to let the flange by. Anybody have any tips for me. I'm getting a bit frustrated. Thanks!

I had the same issue when I swapped mine this week. If you look up above that hex bolt, there are 2 bolts that hold that piece to the diff. They are EXTREMELY difficult to reach (at least for me). It takes a while wrenching about an 8th of a turn at a time, but get those 2 bolts out, then you can maneuver the diff out around that piece. I don't have a pic but I think one is upside down and one is right side up. Getting those bolts back in is an even bigger pain though. Good luck!
 
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When I pulled my extra front diff out of a 4Runner at a salvage yard I used their big rolling hoist to lift up on the motor a bit. I was able to buy a little more clearance this way due to the movement/flex in the motor mounts. Remember I was at the salvage yard and was not 100% concerned about damaging the motor mounts on the donor vehicle so use caution if you go this route. I too struggled with the threaded stud in the rear not coming out of the crossmember far enough for removal.
 
Something I found that helped me out, was placing a jack under the diff and raising it.

It takes a little bit to get it in the right position, but I've never had a problem getting that stud in the back high enough.

The flange on the bell housing and steering rack, that's a different story.

To make it real easy, install an engine lift. It's AMAZING. ;)
 
finally got it

I figured out what was giving me the most trouble was the vacuum lines on the top of the diff towards the front were hanging up on the power steering lines coming to the rack and pinion. It's such tight clearance for the diff to come out. But the good news is, I just got everything buttoned back up, new oil pump, new timing belt with idler and tension pulleys.



by the way Doc, Semper FI
I was in the Corps from '99-'05
 
Helpful Hint

Sorry to bring an old thread back from the dead... But I just swapped out my oil pan in my '99 Limited and had to give my two cents.

Remove the arm on the passenger side of the differential. Once I did that it allowed us to twist it just right (without dinging up the oil pan and everything else under there).

To put it back, just jack it up w/ a hydraulic jack until it almost hits the oil pan, then basically just bench press it into place. Easier said than done, but I'm guessing if you're tackling this you understand the diff is damn heavy!

Big thanks to all the threads on here that helped me out along the way - the pics were lifesavers.
 
I had the same issue when I swapped mine this week. If you look up above that hex bolt, there are 2 bolts that hold that piece to the diff. They are EXTREMELY difficult to reach (at least for me). It takes a while wrenching about an 8th of a turn at a time, but get those 2 bolts out, then you can maneuver the diff out around that piece. I don't have a pic but I think one is upside down and one is right side up. Getting those bolts back in is an even bigger pain though. Good luck!

I know this post is a bit old, but i will second what [MENTION=80922]Bfaulken[/MENTION] said for anyone else trying to research to do this. I tried all sorts of different ways of working the diff out over the course of probably an hour and a half to two hours, tried to jack the trans/motor up a little bit as suggested, that didn't work. As soon as i took these two bolts out that hold the mount, the diff did literally fall out. I had it pushed as far forward and towards the drivers side as i could get it, once i did that the bolts were very easy to get to. They are 17mm.
 
Mine was a real pain to swap in, we had to jack up the transmission to get it over. then the other day I was looking at my transmission and i dont know how the mount normally looks but it seems as if that bushing has deteriorated. this was why it was so difficult to remove the diff.
 
I tried that and a pry bar. I even hooked a chain up to it and yanked.

When you are driving the screwdriver make sure to rotate the CV 90 degrees and try again or use a screwdriver / wedge 180 degrees apart on the CV. A chain wouldn't work at all. It take a sharp blow to pop the clip out. Don't be afraid to give your screwdriver / wedge a good pop with a hammer.
 

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