pulling the front diff
- Thread starter FrankM23
- Start date
Once again, sorry to bring this old thread up.
The good news is that I found a front diff (4.30) from an E locker 4R.
When I do the swap, do I have to pull the front half shafts, or is there there enough room when I undo the lower ball joint to just pop the shafts out of the diff?
The good news is that I found a front diff (4.30) from an E locker 4R.
When I do the swap, do I have to pull the front half shafts, or is there there enough room when I undo the lower ball joint to just pop the shafts out of the diff?
infamousRNR
Senior Member
I would recommend removing the CV axles entirely before you start trying to remove the front diff. you'll need the room. Tim and Fred can attest that you'll find it easy to maneuver if you undo the transmission mount to the crossmember and just that up. if you have enough room and two jacks, undo the engine mount on the drivers side and jacking that up to might make your life easier. get a buddy to help you wiggle it out unless you are the Hulk.
Last edited:
Chim
New member
I undid the lower ball joints on mine when I removed my front diff to get the CV axles out... I thought this was normal practice..
Also, you don't need to mess with trans mount or engine mounts to get front diff out.. there is a sweet spot where the front diff will just tip out.. I did this all myself and I am not the Hulk although bean pole arms won't do it either
infamousRNR
Senior Member
I undid the lower ball joints on mine when I removed my front diff to get the CV axles out... I thought this was normal practice..
Also, you don't need to mess with trans mount or engine mounts to get front diff out.. there is a sweet spot where the front diff will just tip out.. I did this all myself and I am not the Hulk although bean pole arms won't do it either
oh yeah good point on the LBJ :lmao:. its heavy just know that. the flange that mounts to the drive shaft on the diff gets hung up on the bell housing. at least that is what happened to us.
Yeah, two friends and I struggled hard to get my front diff out today. It absolutely sucked, and we were working on a lift! Basically, it was getting hung up on that stud that has the nut (in the back), or the yoke on the power steering/bellhousing. Thanks for the information about undoing the engine mount or trans mount to give more space. I'm going to do that tomorrow I think.
I undid the lower ball joints on mine when I removed my front diff to get the CV axles out... I thought this was normal practice..
Also, you don't need to mess with trans mount or engine mounts to get front diff out.. there is a sweet spot where the front diff will just tip out.. I did this all myself and I am not the Hulk although bean pole arms won't do it either
I don't understand how you found a sweet spot. I had to unbolt the stud in the back from the whole diff casing to be able to swing the diff out. I can't imagine getting it back in without messing with the engine or trans mounts.
UnderFire
New member
I know it comes in and out without too much fighting against the pan on a 3RZ. Never done one on a V6 truck.
Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
phattyduck
Elite Member
When I installed my front diff, I noticed that the front mounts seemed to get in the way the most. Mainly the one connected to the axle tube side, if I remember right. There is a 'rotation' thing you need to do with the diff to get it out - you can't just lift it and move it forward. The back comes up, the front goes down and it can come out...
Oh, and a transmission jack helps.
-Charlie
Lindenwood
New member
Does the electric ADD pn my 2002 make it easier or harder to remove?
I have slowly been working up the courage to do this myself.....
I have slowly been working up the courage to do this myself.....
phattyduck
Elite Member
Makes basically no difference. The ADD actuator doesn't get in the way of anything for R&R.
-Charlie
mtbtim
Elite Member
What [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] mentioned above is part of what makes getting the front diff out. These 2 things will make it simple to remove and replace the front diff:
#1 - unbolt the driver side motor mount. Jack up under the oil pan to lift the engine and then shim between the motor mount and frame to maintain the height gained so you can get the jack out of your way. A half inch to 1 inch is enough. When lifting the engine, you want to disperse the weight with a block of wood on the oil pan so you don't dent it.
#2 - After disconnecting the 2 vacuum lines and 1 breather line from the metal hard lines, remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the lines onto the diff. Once disconnected, twist the lines away from the power steering lines so they won't get hung up when you're removing the diff. Those hard lines will hook the power steering lines as you're trying to lift and rotate the diff forward and out.
If you do those two things, this goes from being a nightmare to remove to being a walk in the park. Since making that video, I've pulled the front diff on these rigs on 4 more occasions.
#1 - unbolt the driver side motor mount. Jack up under the oil pan to lift the engine and then shim between the motor mount and frame to maintain the height gained so you can get the jack out of your way. A half inch to 1 inch is enough. When lifting the engine, you want to disperse the weight with a block of wood on the oil pan so you don't dent it.
#2 - After disconnecting the 2 vacuum lines and 1 breather line from the metal hard lines, remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the lines onto the diff. Once disconnected, twist the lines away from the power steering lines so they won't get hung up when you're removing the diff. Those hard lines will hook the power steering lines as you're trying to lift and rotate the diff forward and out.
If you do those two things, this goes from being a nightmare to remove to being a walk in the park. Since making that video, I've pulled the front diff on these rigs on 4 more occasions.
phattyduck
Elite Member
That is an AWESOME idea. It really is that close when you are trying to sneak the diff in/out of there.
-Charlie
Lindenwood
New member
I wonder how hard it would be to rebuild the rear diff mount with a bolt hold instead of a stud? Seems like not having that rear stud would dramatically simplify the process.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I got this idea from one of our subscribers shortly after posting the video of Fred and I struggling like crazy to get that diff out and back in. As soon as I heard it I knew it would work.
turbodudey2
New member
I concur there is a sweet spot where the diff will slip right out, and go back in. (5VZ-FE w/ ADD)
I didn't touch the engine mounts or the trans mount. I just removed the diff mounting bolts and it came right out. I did it myself with a floor jack to help support the weight. It went back in the same way, with very little effort.
I didn't touch the engine mounts or the trans mount. I just removed the diff mounting bolts and it came right out. I did it myself with a floor jack to help support the weight. It went back in the same way, with very little effort.
/\ /\ /\ /\ This right here. It would make the whole process *SO*MUCH*EASIER.
I got mine out without undoing either trans or motor mounts. But it was a HUGE PITA. There is some magical combination of movements and lifts and tugs and twists and tilts that gets it out without doing anything else. But it's heavy, awkward to lift, wants to slump down in very unhelpful directions the entire way.
And if they just replaced the stud on the rear diff mount with a bolt? The thing would just slide pretty much straight forward.
Putting it back in I left the rear mount off (well, set it in place first) , then slid the diff in easily, then fussed and struggled with getting the mount on it again, and the bolts tightened down. Which wasn't fun, but a little easier than struggling it in with the mount attached.
Next time? I'm going to undo the trans and motor mounts.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I haven't tried it yet, but looking at MBTIM's video and having worked a lot on these trucks, I have a suggestion. Take an engine crane, like the Harbor Freight cheapo I have from my frame swap, and use it to lift the engine without unbolting it. This will provide clearance to the limit of the mounts and I will bet it's enough to allow that diff to come out.
