punching out the convertor...????

99Yotarunner

New member
Hey i was thinking about punching out my convertor on my rig and using the spark plug non fouler like they use on alot of vec. it tricks the rear o2 sensor into thinking the cat is still there and working....any one try this or have any input...? just curios what you guys think, i now it will make my exhaust louder but im thinking may help with lil more power and gas milage not that it matters running 285s lol any input would be cool thanks:roadkill:
 
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I read on ih8mud that a guy did a similar thing by just cutting off the flange from an old O2 sensor and using it as a spacer for the new one. Not sure which is easier.

I thought it was a great idea if it will make my stupid 0420 code disappear.
 
I'm sure it would work peachy. I considered doing it on mine as well, cause I have two cats and they're pretty restrictive. However, I drive in town alot, and can't have the exhaust smelling really strong like un-catalyzed fuel all the time. Even though I'm pretty sure the engine isn't going to be running very rich, no cats definately make the exhaust stink more than what is comfortable for most people.
 
Different car but same idea or better.... a friend of mine has a 400hp EVO and their computer w/o special elimination codes allows them to simply remove the downstream O2 sensor, zip tie off to the side and plug the bung. They claim that as long as the downstream reads cleaner than the upstream the computer is happy. I tried this on my 02 Jetta 1.8T and wasn't so fortunate, but did fix it by welding in a 1" sleeve over the bung removing the sensor from the main stream of gases. My P420 comes back every 200 or so miles, so I'm disconnecting the batt quite often. Getting old fast!:smashputer:
 
I have read that there is no power gain from removing the cat or punching holes in it on our trucks. In fact, I've read it hinders the low end torque. I can't find the atricle with this info at the moment, but do a lot of research before doing this, I don't think there is any benefit and it's illegal in most states.
 
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Different car but same idea or better.... a friend of mine has a 400hp EVO and their computer w/o special elimination codes allows them to simply remove the downstream O2 sensor, zip tie off to the side and plug the bung. They claim that as long as the downstream reads cleaner than the upstream the computer is happy. I tried this on my 02 Jetta 1.8T and wasn't so fortunate, but did fix it by welding in a 1" sleeve over the bung removing the sensor from the main stream of gases. My P420 comes back every 200 or so miles, so I'm disconnecting the batt quite often. Getting old fast!:smashputer:

It usually takes 200 miles to set a P0420, given 2-trip detection and lots of specific parameters, so you probably didn't 'fix' anything. The set criteria are way more complicated than "cleaner than" on Toyota 4Runners. So I am skeptical about anything short of the URD simulator, but hey, "Who knows?"

Also, (to the OP) how are you going to get the non-fouler onto our flange-type sensors? The Mazdas and Hondas where they do this have 18mm screw-in threaded mounts like plugs do.
 
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Different car but same idea or better.... a friend of mine has a 400hp EVO and their computer w/o special elimination codes allows them to simply remove the downstream O2 sensor, zip tie off to the side and plug the bung. They claim that as long as the downstream reads cleaner than the upstream the computer is happy. I tried this on my 02 Jetta 1.8T and wasn't so fortunate, but did fix it by welding in a 1" sleeve over the bung removing the sensor from the main stream of gases. My P420 comes back every 200 or so miles, so I'm disconnecting the batt quite often. Getting old fast!:smashputer:

Dude, just buy a cheap code reader to clear it. Or buy a scangauge to clear it, then you also have the sweet additional gauges.

Pulling the battery everytime is way too much work. I would pull the CEL bulb before doing that.
 

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