Purchasing high mileage 3rd gen

jminz

jminz

New member
I've already made this post and I'm not sure where it went it went. If this is a duplicate I apologize.

I'm looking at a high mileage 3rd gen and want your thoughts. This wouldn't be a daily driver for me. Just something to play with.

1999 sport with the color matched bumpers
4x4
267k miles
Body and interior in good shape
Minimal if any rust on frame
Has recently had valve and intake gaskets, pads and rotors, and thermostat.

Only issue owner reports is that the dash temp gauge does not work.

What is fair price for a rig with these specs?
 
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jminz said:
I've already made this post and I'm not sure where it went it went. If this is a duplicate I apologize.

I'm looking at a high mileage 3rd gen and want your thoughts. This wouldn't be a daily driver for me. Just something to play with.

1999 sport with the color matched bumpers
4x4
267k miles
Body and interior in good shape
Minimal if any rust on frame
Has recently had valve and intake gaskets, pads and rotors, and thermostat.

Only issue owner reports is that the dash temp gauge does not work.

What is fair price for a rig with these specs?
Click to expand...

97 sr5
4x4
260k miles
body 7/10
interior 8/10
0 rust (because cali)
recent jdm enging dropped in

I paid $2,850 for my truck, for a sport I'd pay a little more just depending on condition. maybe 3500 for a clean truck
 
They all have high miles if they have been driven normally. They are 20 years old after all. How far do you expect a vehicle to be driven after so long?

A good price would be $4000 assuming no rust and complete history. Broken temp gauge is actually common on 99+ clusters. Sometimes a knock on the dash gets them working again, but I never looked into the problem. Just check what operating temp it sits at once warmed up with a cheapo OBD tool.
 
dcshipwreck said:
97 sr5
4x4
260k miles
body 7/10
interior 8/10
0 rust (because cali)
recent jdm enging dropped in

I paid $2,850 for my truck, for a sport I'd pay a little more just depending on condition. maybe 3500 for a clean truck
Click to expand...

Did you pay that before after new engine?
 
T4R2014 said:
They all have high miles if they have been driven normally. They are 20 years old after all. How far do you expect a vehicle to be driven after so long?

A good price would be $4000 assuming no rust and complete history. Broken temp gauge is actually common on 99+ clusters. Sometimes a knock on the dash gets them working again, but I never looked into the problem. Just check what operating temp it sits at once warmed up with a cheapo OBD tool.
Click to expand...

So $2500 would be a no brainier I guess.
 
Keep in mind the expensive maintenance needs.

We got our 97 SR5 with 310k miles for $2,000... it's a manual that drove well but had some needs.

We are around $4k total into it in 6 months... I've obtained some deals, picked up a parts rig to replace some items (nulls out as I profited off of it) but to give you an idea (and should affect the purchase price - if these are done/good/up to date that is money you dont have to spend soon).

Purchase price plus taxes/registration
New tires
Timing belt job
Stereo work
Fix various interior pieces
Suspension/steering work (still needs but I have the parts)


So, if you think it's worth $3,000 but needs tires yesterday, it's really more like $2500 or less as it's going to cost you the $500 or more to get it to a usable state.
 
I would go ahead and add $1000 to the purchase price. Suspension, bushings, fluid changes, brakes, etc. A twenty year old vehicle will need some tlc. Worth it in my opinion.
 
Seems like a decent deal, but to Echo everyone else-- be ready to drop some coin in it to get it "100% road worthy"

- Lower ball joints are a must
- radiator and 'yota red coolant
- fuel filter change on mine at 218K made a HUGE difference
- PCV valve
- Mine needed a whole new rack and pinion and outer tie rods at 230k FYI
- Tires
- Air filter, oil change, etc to get it all good
- plugs and plug wires for sure with that mileage


I wouldn't worry about the engine/trans if it runs good, it's likely fine. Just all of these ancillary parts do add up to get the truck right.


Edit-- Oh yeah! Forgot to mention: Timing Belt, all the idlers, Water Pump, Drive belts, etc.. eeeek this is bringing back memories.
 
Last edited:
WeakSauz said:
Seems like a decent deal, but to Echo everyone else-- be ready to drop some coin in it to get it "100% road worthy"

- Lower ball joints are a must
- radiator and 'yota red coolant
- fuel filter change on mine at 218K made a HUGE difference
- PCV valve
- Mine needed a whole new rack and pinion and outer tie rods at 230k FYI
- Tires
- Air filter, oil change, etc to get it all good
- plugs and plug wires for sure with that mileage


I wouldn't worry about the engine/trans if it runs good, it's likely fine. Just all of these ancillary parts do add up to get the truck right.


Edit-- Oh yeah! Forgot to mention: Timing Belt, all the idlers, Water Pump, Drive belts, etc.. eeeek this is bringing back memories.
Click to expand...

Might need all new brake pads and shoes; possibly rotors and drums. That could add up to a few hundred. Check for oil leaks under the engine and trans. Check U-Joints too. Good ones are expensive. I like to let someone who changes them all the time do them if needed. Pulling the driveshaft is easy on a 2wd drive. A bit more involved on a 4wd. Wheel bearings/seals are a possibility; more on the rear than the front.

I've got over $10k into reconditioning my 01 but I did have to spend over $4k on a new long block and new belts/hoses/radiator/etc. It's the .etc that adds up fast too. It's all worth it but I really wasn't expecting to spend as much as I did. Of course if that hose hadn't blown off the radiator I'd probably be under $6k into it now.

Like everyone said; buying the rig is just the starting point. A down payment. A good resto/recondition is gonna take time and money but when you have a like-new 3rd gen to drive; it will be worth it.

Turning it into a real trick overland rig is next-level expensive though. Cool though if that's your thing.

If you want to get a real nice starting point; check out this 96' Land Cruiser for $6.8k w/167k miles. I have no affiliation to the seller.

Awesome Cruiser - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale
 
I just bought 2002 4runner 4x4 v6 with 277000 miles in WI.

His grandson took it out to Colorado for 4 years for collage. He graduated no longer wanted the truck.

It got some WI rust and frame is good shape. Everything works on truck.

It had 4runner brake pulsation problem and minor front end deer hit damage.

He wanted 2700.00 talked him down to 2200.00

Runs and drives great.

Did bigger 199mm brake upgrade and really happy with it.
 
I bought my 97 SR5 3.4L 4x4, with 130k on the clock for 4K. If turns out the miles were rolled back so it has 300k. I had the car inspected and it’s perfect all around! No rust, no issue with the motor or tranny.

If I knew it had 300k I would have wanted to pay 3,000 Max.

With that being said it all depends on the condition of the vehicle. If it needs tires, or valve cover gaskets, or a timing belt that knocks off another another grand. So If he wants 2,500 jump on it! With a price that low you can spend $1000 and it still be a good deal
 
jminz said:
Did you pay that before after new engine?
Click to expand...

that was after the new engine, but as others have said I planned accordingly and had 2k set aside for freshening up.

so far for preventative maint. and refresh i've done:
LBJ's
lower control arm bushings
rack bushings
rear upper control arm bushings
rear lower control arm bushings
pan hard bar bushings
external trans cooler to prevent pink milk shake

upgrades:
3" lift
led's on all the lights
retrofit projectors(because stock lights suck bad)
new tail lights, one had a broken lens
tundra brake upgrade
stainless brake lines

then 3 weeks ago my trans shit the bed and I scored a replacement with 130k miles for $250 and installed that, been good so far but we'll see. I don't like doing that much work to install unknown used parts but it's my daily and needed it up and running.

next "upgrade" i'm going to piece together is a manual swap but that damn ecu is so expensive, it costs as much as the trans itself.
 
dcshipwreck said:
that was after the new engine, but as others have said I planned accordingly and had 2k set aside for freshening up.

so far for preventative maint. and refresh i've done:
LBJ's
lower control arm bushings
rack bushings
rear upper control arm bushings
rear lower control arm bushings
pan hard bar bushings
external trans cooler to prevent pink milk shake

upgrades:
3" lift
led's on all the lights
retrofit projectors(because stock lights suck bad)
new tail lights, one had a broken lens
tundra brake upgrade
stainless brake lines

then 3 weeks ago my trans shit the bed and I scored a replacement with 130k miles for $250 and installed that, been good so far but we'll see. I don't like doing that much work to install unknown used parts but it's my daily and needed it up and running.

next "upgrade" i'm going to piece together is a manual swap but that damn ecu is so expensive, it costs as much as the trans itself.
Click to expand...

your trans shit the bed while it had the external cooler? damn.
 
The mileage is high, but these trucks are extremely reliable. Provided it was well maintained, I see to problem. My biggest concern would be rust.
 
Yup. As others have said, the price is on the jump on it zone.
Be weary if it has a new radiator. Did the seller change it as a maintenance? Or did the seller 4r suffered a pink milkshake and just wanna get rid of it now?
Plan accordingly.
 
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