question about muffler fitment

dominopizza

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for 2000 4runner limited, should i get california emission or federal emission muffler?
I took a photo from my hood but i don't understand if i should use federal or california. thanks
 

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catalytic converter or muffler? No such thing as California muffler.

Also if you actually live in ca you will need a carb legal catalytic converter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ah sorry. pipe that connects to catalytic converter rusted off lol
so, i need to buy a muffler and a tail pie altogether. can't even save my old tail pipe cause tail pipes are all rusted off as well. -__-

I've heard that california emission one and federal emission one are different in size?

just by looking at the sticker, it saying it comply with both? then should i use california or federal?
 
ah sorry. pipe that connects to catalytic converter rusted off lol
so, i need to buy a muffler and a tail pie altogether. can't even save my old tail pipe cause tail pipes are all rusted off as well. -__-

I've heard that california emission one and federal emission one are different in size?

just by looking at the sticker, it saying it comply with both? then should i use california or federal?

You should use California. The key line is under Engine Family where it says:

SFI, A/F, S , TWC(2), HO2....

That tells you you have TWO catalytic converters and that means a Cali. system. TWC means Three-Way Converter. A/F means Air/Fuel Sensor before the cats, another hallmark of the Cali. configuration. Ignore the rest of the label as it is completely confusing and frequently misleading.

A Fed woud say something like SFI, HO2S(2), TWC

Maryland is one of something like 10 states that the adopted Cali. standard before the feds did but they do not require CARB approved replacements. Any Cali. spec parts will do. I just installed the Walker Cali. muffler and tailpipe. It works, but the fit was funky. The muffler hanger ears were too close together so it rode too high and bumped into the cargo area floor. Had to modify. YMMV.
 
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catalytic converter or muffler? No such thing as California muffler.

Also if you actually live in ca you will need a carb legal catalytic converter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wrong. The Cali. muffler IS different, as it has shorter upstream pipe to allow space for the two cats. Only the tailpipe is the same, Cali has different manifolds, crossover, cats, AND muffler.

I think they redesigned the whole thing to prevent people from converting Cali. trucks into Feds to save money on the cats. Otherwise, you would think they could have used the same manifolds.


He lives in Maryland which is one of something like 10 states that adopted the Cali. standard before the feds did but they do not require CARB approved replacements. Any Cali. spec parts will do.
 
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Do you know what the nuts and bolt size for mufflers and tail pipes? it's all rusted so i need to buy them as well.... it doesn't come with it.
 
Do you know what the nuts and bolt size for mufflers and tail pipes? it's all rusted so i need to buy them as well.... it doesn't come with it.

Factory should be M10 x 1.25 thread, but I don't know the length. 50mm is just a guess. 70mm is for sure long enough, though.
 
i don't trust shops to do any kind of work. i've been fooled too many times. there's nothing hard about swapping out the muffler at my driveway.
 
i don't trust shops to do any kind of work. i've been fooled too many times. there's nothing hard about swapping out the muffler at my driveway.

Those rubber hangers can be a pain though, especially if they have solidified. You might need to cut them off and buy new ones.
 
Just did all this. Had to remove my 2 cats to put new a new A/F and o2 sensor. Studs were rusted. Including the 3 on the crossover pipe. Cut out ALL the studs (7 total) and tapped for bolts. That was a bit of a pain. Used all stainless hardware. The easy part was from the catback. Spray some WD on the hangars for easier removal. A grinder with a cutoff wheel makes removal a lot easier. I actually used a grinder wheel to grind off the bolt heads. Really, it's the only way if your hardware is rusted.
AT first, I did all this to replace my A/F sensor and O2 sensor only. Muffler and tailpipe "looked" ok at the time so I didn't replace them. When I dropped my 2nd cat, my muffler tipped forward (The muffler has 2 hangers on it) and hit the ground. I didn't think anything of it. I was just happy I was done drilling and cutting. Put it all together and drove it to work the next 4 days and started smelling a funny smell. I thought my AM pipe seals were breaking in or leaking. Smelled it every time I drove it. I finally got some time to investigate and I was standing behind the truck while it was running and I didn't hear the exhaust at my feet. Reached down to feel for the exhaust and nothing. I instantly knew what happened. When I disconnected the rear cat and the muffler tipped forward, the tail pipe broke at the bend coming out of the muffler and the hot gases were aimed right at my cargo area floorboard and melted the rubber mat under the carpet, singed my carpet and rear floormat and deformed my Weathertech floormat. Layers upon layers of heat bonded carpet and rubber. If I had put 2 and 2 together when my muffler tipped forward, which it would not have done if the tailpipe were intact, I would have saved my carpet. It's actually not that bad, but I still haven't been able to pry off that rubber mat bonded to the floor board. Guess I'll break out the heat gun Death Cougar is hooking me up with a carpet not a good as mine was but oh well.

Anyways, sorry for the long story. Recommend a cutoff tool/grinder. Replace with stainless bolts (don't have to be metric) and use Rockauto to get the right part #s for California or Federal. They show the entire system for Walker and Bosal. Use WD to lubricate the hangars for easier removal and installation. Also, get some high temp paint (silver blends well if you miss a spot) and paint the seams and welds on the muffler and the bends on the tailpipe.
 

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