On my 97 Limited I have a double-cardan joint (2 u-joints) right behind the tranfer case and I have a single u-joint going to the rear pumpkin. Is it just a straight forward u-joint replacement on that cardan joint in towards the front? I have tried searching and have found some conflicting information.
Question about replacing rear driveshaft u-joints
- Thread starter ki1022
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Perhaps some clarification... Yes its rebuild-able. But try to find the parts.
I've read in some other threads that people have tried but the u-joints they had were not the right size to fit. Do you know a part number for u-joint that will work in this joint?
nevada
Senior Member
are the joints bad?
why aren you wanting to change them?
ive got a LOT of miles on my OE joints, theyre still in great shape.
a DC joint is tricky to work on, better left to a driveline shop.
There is a really bad squeaking going on while letting up on the throttle and I'm thinking it is u-joint(s). Maybe I will just replace the rear-most u-joint and hope that fixes the problem.
nevada
Senior Member
better to find the problem first, before changing things.
Yeah, I certainly agree. It's just really difficult to find because it only happens intermittently and only over like 25mph so the best thing I can do is have myself or a passenger listen out the window. It sounds a little further than halfway past the center of the vehicle and wasn't sure what else it could be besides u-joint.
I guess I could try and reproduce the noise while sitting up on jackstands...
which is shorter/longer?
Hope you have a 4x4. Completely remove the entire rear drive shaft. Drive with 4x4 on (your front wheels pull the truck now, like front wheel drive). If you still hear the noise, that means your rear shaft is good!
JBurt
Senior Member
Figured I'd post here instead of starting a new thread. Just want to double check the part number.
Is 0437160070 correct for a 3rd gen 4wd rear u joint?
I've been having a clunk coming from the rear, vibration between 55-77, and a squeak when I let off the gas. Also I removed my rear u joint and it looked fine. All needle bearings present and accounted for and the joint itself didn't look worn. It didn't have detectable play.
With the rear driveshaft removed all the above problems are gone. Should I just put in a known good shaft instead of replacing a joint that may or may not fix the problem?
Is 0437160070 correct for a 3rd gen 4wd rear u joint?
I've been having a clunk coming from the rear, vibration between 55-77, and a squeak when I let off the gas. Also I removed my rear u joint and it looked fine. All needle bearings present and accounted for and the joint itself didn't look worn. It didn't have detectable play.
With the rear driveshaft removed all the above problems are gone. Should I just put in a known good shaft instead of replacing a joint that may or may not fix the problem?
...and this was purchased only in anticipation of a potential future problem. One of the grease fittings apparently hit something and the end snapped off leaving the rest of the zerk flush with the drive shaft. Dealership said they couldn't drill it out and replace it.
So, since my 3rd gen is a keeper, I found a local replacement for a reasonable price. I'll keep greasing the remaining zerks and if that 1 zerk's ungreased condition causes the draft shaft to fail, I've only got to worry about getting the vehicle home.
So, since my 3rd gen is a keeper, I found a local replacement for a reasonable price. I'll keep greasing the remaining zerks and if that 1 zerk's ungreased condition causes the draft shaft to fail, I've only got to worry about getting the vehicle home.
StreetCreeper
New member
Why not get some left hand drill bits and drill it out yourself? It even has a built-in pilot hole for you...
JBurt
Senior Member
Just as an update, here is the updated part number 04371-60070. I got it off amazon because I could get it quicker than from camel back.
When my zerk sheared off I hammered in a very small torx but and it came right out.
Unfortunately I now need to rebuild the double cardan up front
When my zerk sheared off I hammered in a very small torx but and it came right out.
Unfortunately I now need to rebuild the double cardan up front
I did try with several reverse bits, but the zerk metal kept crumbling and I did not want to risk damaging the shaft metal or wind drilling so far I got metal shavings inside the drive shaft.
Maybe I'll circle back to this in the future, but I got a replacement sitting on the shelf.
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