Question about replacing seal on rear diff

Philbert

New member
HI everyone,

I had a remanned diff installed a year and a half ago. It's now leaking from the seal around the case - not from where the driveshaft enters.

My mechanic said it needs a new seal and would be $400 to replace. I don't have $400.

Is it as simple as (after draining diff oil):
1) Disconnecting the drive shaft from the rear diff
2) removing the bolts around the casing on the diff
3) lifting off the diff case cover from the rest of it
4) replace gasket
5) put together and put new oil in

?

Or...will the gears and other parts fall out of the casing? If it's not this simple as described above, I would likely have him do it - but I'd rather DIY it. Anyone done this and is it that easy?

Thanks
 
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The gears and "everything" as you say are connected to that "cover". It all comes out in one piece and no it won't fall apart. You will have to pull the axles out a few inches which means you need to remove the hubs, etc. What you are calling a seal is actually a paper gasket - FYI.

It's actually quite easy to do but you need a factory service manual. If you don't have one then you can download one for a 1985 here:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyot...k-4runner-faq-frequently-asked-questions.html

Go to this link and scroll down to post number 10. In that section you will find a link that says "1985 FSM". Click on that link and it will automatically download a PDF file of about 50+MB. Go to the secion on the rear axle and read up.

If I was going to the trouble to pull the diff then I would pull the rear axles and install new seals. They are quite cheap.

Don't forget to drain the differential fluid before you start!

That diff is fairly heavy so a friend would be helpful when you start to drop it.

Use Jack stands under those rear axles!

I used red Toyota FIPG (form in place gasket) when I installed my new TRD elocker differentials. I put a thin layer on each mating flange and then put the gasket in and bolted it down. If you do that then you are pretty much guaranteed to not have another leak. You need a torque wrench. Follow the FSM torque specifications! Do not over tighten the nuts!

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone - I completed this over the past week after work each night. hasn't leaked yet (knowck on wood!).

I wrote up a DIY guide with photos I took along the way but both times I tried to post it the forum told me that I had "too many images" - even though i was linking TO them and not attaching them....I really want to post this....any idea how to get around it? I have a word doc with the HTML coding for all the photos....could email to a moderator to post if they were willing.... :)
 

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