Question about sway bar bushing bolts

Jimbo03T4R

New member
I was attempting to change my sway bar bushings today and one of the bolts snapped and is spinning freely but will not come off. The sway bar bushing mount will not come off either. I've tried prying to bolt off and prying the whole mount on that side off and nothing. So right now, I have one bolt tightened and one that spins freely. I can spin the bolt all day long but it will not tighten or loosen up. Do you all have any ideas what I could do to get that damn bolt off?
 

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The nutsert welded inside the frame probably broke loose . You might have to use a saw or cutting wheel to cut the bolt off. Gettig a new nut inside there will be a challenge though unless there is a cutout in the frame you can reach through. The one that snapped off will need to be cut flush and drilled out. Do you have a lift ? With most lift setups you can just remove the front sway bar. I threw mine out years ago.
 
Thanks for the responses. I'll go out there in a little and try to cut that bolt off. I don't have a lift yet. I'm planning on upgrading to 5100s and OMEs around but wanted to keep sway bar (to minimize body roll, since I drive with my kid in the truck often).
 
Thanks for the help again. I was able to get the old bolt out and put a carriage bolt in. Unfortunately, my issue was with the bolt opposite of the one with the open slot. I ended up cutting the old sway bar bushing mount off, then moving the sway bar out of the way so I could cut the old bolt head off. Then some string, a carriage bolt and a coat hanger and I was in business.
 
Thanks for the help again. I was able to get the old bolt out and put a carriage bolt in. Unfortunately, my issue was with the bolt opposite of the one with the open slot. I ended up cutting the old sway bar bushing mount off, then moving the sway bar out of the way so I could cut the old bolt head off. Then some string, a carriage bolt and a coat hanger and I was in business.

Next time you should try a RivNut insert or "Nutsert" its basically a rivet with threads. Its what I used to repair stripped out nuts in my frame when I put new skid plates in.
 
Next time you should try a RivNut insert or "Nutsert" its basically a rivet with threads. Its what I used to repair stripped out nuts in my frame when I put new skid plates in.

Great idea. I use Rivnuts at work and never thought of using them for something like this.
 
I am in this exact same position. Went to remove sway bar for some suspension work in the driveway and after some fighting it just snapped the weld inside the frame. I recently learned what a rivnut was and used them putting a skid plate on another car. I figured since I didnt really loosen the broken captive nut, just broke it free its not going to come loose on me. I'll change it out for a rivnut when I get a chunk of time to get out there. Made strut removal much harder with the sway bar in the way!
 
How well do rivet nuts hold? I talked to a couple of metal guys and they said that rivet nuts should only be used on light load stuff.
 
How well do rivet nuts hold? I talked to a couple of metal guys and they said that rivet nuts should only be used on light load stuff.

Well, it depends... [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] can probably throw some of his experience, I believe he deals with aircraft; where they tend to use RivNuts a lot from my understanding. [MENTION=70181]Gatafly[/MENTION] also mentioned he uses them at work, I am not sure what for though.

A LOT of sections of modern vehicles use rivnuts, typically lower load areas, or blind sheetmetal/metal sections. But if you match the thickness of your base metal with the correct range of rivnut (they have different grip ranges to better accommodate the material, I used ones ranged for 0.027 to 0.150" to repair damaged factory nuts in the frame for the skidplates) and torque/install them properly you should have no issues.

I am running a full set of RCI 3/16" skidplates on my 4Runner, part of the bolts go into Rivnuts I used to repair stripped out nuts in the frame. So far they haven't ripped out of the frame despite serious impacts off-road, enough to dent 3/16" plate steel.
 
I use them on aluminum door frames for hold opens. They take a lot of side jarring pressure and hokd up well. I would have no problemusing tge steel ones for swaybar bushing brackets or most anything bolted to the frame.
 
How well do rivet nuts hold? I talked to a couple of metal guys and they said that rivet nuts should only be used on light load stuff.

Well, it depends... [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] can probably throw some of his experience, I believe he deals with aircraft; where they tend to use RivNuts a lot from my understanding. [MENTION=70181]Gatafly[/MENTION] also mentioned he uses them at work, I am not sure what for though.

A LOT of sections of modern vehicles use rivnuts, typically lower load areas, or blind sheetmetal/metal sections. But if you match the thickness of your base metal with the correct range of rivnut (they have different grip ranges to better accommodate the material, I used ones ranged for 0.027 to 0.150" to repair damaged factory nuts in the frame for the skidplates) and torque/install them properly you should have no issues.

I am running a full set of RCI 3/16" skidplates on my 4Runner, part of the bolts go into Rivnuts I used to repair stripped out nuts in the frame. So far they haven't ripped out of the frame despite serious impacts off-road, enough to dent 3/16" plate steel.

I can sort of answer your question but first let me give you a bit of background material so we are all on the same page:

Newton - A Newton is a unit of force that is equivalent to 1 kilogram per meter divided by seconds squared. Why do you need to know this? Because the Rivnut chart is in Newtons and you need to understand that force units are different than just plain pounds or kilograms.
1 Newton is equivalent to 0.22481 lbF so it takes a bit over 4 lbF to equal 1 Newton.

Rivnut Data - Here is the basic data on Rivnuts http://www.technologycomponents.com/pdf/RIVNUT Catalog_Complete.pdf and pages 13 and 38 for example is where they talk about axial loading.

This can of worms can get complicated real fast so I am going to be very general in my explanation.

Comparing a stainless M8 Rivnut to a typical M8 Nut and bolt, the Nut and bolt is stronger. That is not to say the Rivnut is weak. No, it is plenty strong DEPENDING ON THE APPLICATION. For example, the max axial loads on an M8 Rivnut is about 6K lbF. That is pretty good! Good enough for a lot of jobs. The challenge with applying Rivnuts is threefold:
1. Choosing the right Rivnut for the Application
2. Using the proper tooling to apply the Rivnut
3. Choosing the right material.

So if you have all the proper tooling to install the Rivnut correctly and you have chosen the correct Rivnut and material then you should be fine. If you guessed at any of these then your fastening job will be just as good as your guess lol. Regular nuts and bolts are fairly easy to apply and fairly simple to understand. Let me put it this way: If my life depended on me hanging from a steel cable supported by either a Rivnut or a conventional nut and bolt and they had "Bubba" over there doing the figuring and install, I would choose the nut and bolt.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Guess I will have to look back into them when I put my skid plates back on. Im sure a bolt of 2 is going to break off. If they arent already missing. When I took it off it was being held on by 2.
 
Just wondering if anyone had completed this fix with a rivet nut and how it has held up? Ran into the same situation this weekend :frusty:

Thanks!
 

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