Question for those that've built bumpers

Konkordmusk said:
Also, how much actually usable steel is on that scrap sheet? Is the angle iron welded on? I don't think I would cut the welds and use the HAZ sections. I'd just cut around it, which leaves you with even less steel :(
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Not too sure yet until I get it cut down and cleaned up. The angle is welded to it, so I will be cutting it off, mostly just an inch or so bead on either side.

The good news is, there was a good bit of plate there, just in random different places around, I should be able to (if need be) go back and find whatever I need.
 
Myrunr2010 said:
Not too sure yet until I get it cut down and cleaned up. The angle is welded to it, so I will be cutting it off, mostly just an inch or so bead on either side.

The good news is, there was a good bit of plate there, just in random different places around, I should be able to (if need be) go back and find whatever I need.
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I've built plenty of bumpers from just one 4x8' sheet. But definitely harder working with what you got there. And 1/4" all around he HEAA...AAAA...VEEE.

:ballchain:
 
The reason you see a lot of 1/8" bumpers is b/c the equipment to brake 3/16" is quite a bit more expensive. IMO, if you're going to go 1/8" to save weight you need to use 4130 plate and then have it annealed and heat treated after welding it all up to harden it to the point it will resist dimpling in the rocks....but that's a lot of expense.

I went tubular to keep the weight down....even though IMO, plate looks SOOOO much better.

IMO, 3/16" plate would be fine....even for the winch mount provided you build the structure correctly and reinforce the frame and mounting points as well as triangulating the main winch plate....but you've already gotten 1/4"....so it'll be fine...just heavy. Personally, I HATE working on rusted steel....even after wire wheeling it, it still sucks, but that's personal preference.

Good luck with it. :)
 
Myrunr2010 said:
I like the lines on this build for the rear.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/93306-another-rear-bumper-build.html

Started cutting up the steel tonight, grinding through the welds on the angle iron. It's roughly 1" welds every 8-12". Hasn't been too bad, I need to get it done though so I can drop some weight and get it out of my trailer, lol.
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Well that example uses a rectangular tube for the main section. That section alone would add 40 lbs if you used 1/4". But with 1/4" you don't need a boxed section. Do you plan to have some one brake some of it, or will you well all the parts, would be some long as welds and a lot of grinding that way.
 
IBallEngineer said:
Well that example uses a rectangular tube for the main section. That section alone would add 40 lbs if you used 1/4". But with 1/4" you don't need a boxed section. Do you plan to have some one brake some of it, or will you well all the parts, would be some long as welds and a lot of grinding that way.
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Right, so generally speaking looking to try and make something with similar lines just using the material I have on had, or, as best I can. I have a hunch I will be back at the scrap yard at some point. I think your auto correct got the best of you... I think you're asking if I'm going to weld the whole thing up or if I will have some sort of a break somewhere in it? Right now I'm planning to weld it all, but I am pretty open minded right now and open to ideas.
 
Myrunr2010 said:
Right, so generally speaking looking to try and make something with similar lines just using the material I have on had, or, as best I can. I have a hunch I will be back at the scrap yard at some point. I think your auto correct got the best of you... I think you're asking if I'm going to weld the whole thing up or if I will have some sort of a break somewhere in it? Right now I'm planning to weld it all, but I am pretty open minded right now and open to ideas.
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Finding someone able to brake 1/4" will be difficult and likely expensive.
 
So what's the recommended gap between the bumper and body panels? I've seen people mention that the body tends to move a lot, and to keep good gaps, but, that's a pretty subjective definition. So, 1/4", 1/2", 1"?? Just looking for some input, thanks.
 
Myrunr2010 said:
So what's the recommended gap between the bumper and body panels? I've seen people mention that the body tends to move a lot, and to keep good gaps, but, that's a pretty subjective definition. So, 1/4", 1/2", 1"?? Just looking for some input, thanks.
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Anyone?
 
Bandit Runner said:
Well I missed this whole discussion due to being on vacation all last week. Here is an option for you:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/184735-build-your-own-bandit-bumper.html

Just throwing it out there. Let me know if you are interested.

Good luck on your project either way.
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Unfortunately the ball is already too far in motion. I built the mounts over the weekend and I mocked it up yesterday with cardboard, just need to start cutting steel now. I like where you put those lights on the rear, any suggestions for types/brands? Are they wired to the backup lights or just on an auxiliary switch? I've been planning to wire in some auxiliary backup lights, I would like to wire them to work when the vehicle is in reverse or when I flip a switch.
 
Myrunr2010 said:
Unfortunately the ball is already too far in motion. I built the mounts over the weekend and I mocked it up yesterday with cardboard, just need to start cutting steel now. I like where you put those lights on the rear, any suggestions for types/brands? Are they wired to the backup lights or just on an auxiliary switch? I've been planning to wire in some auxiliary backup lights, I would like to wire them to work when the vehicle is in reverse or when I flip a switch.
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No problem. Let's see the mockup!

I used some cheap Ebay LED lights in the rear bumper, but they work great.
2 x 10W CREE LED U2 Bar Work Spot Light Lamp Car SUV Offroad Boat ATV Ute Truck | eBay

They are wired to an auxiliary switch.
 
Bandit Runner said:
No problem. Let's see the mockup!

I used some cheap Ebay LED lights in the rear bumper, but they work great.
2 x 10W CREE LED U2 Bar Work Spot Light Lamp Car SUV Offroad Boat ATV Ute Truck | eBay

They are wired to an auxiliary switch.
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Lol, pics are coming. I was thinking I would start a build thread on it since I'm hoping to do the fronts at some point too.

Are they decently bright? I always feel like the stock backup lights just don't put off enough light, especially when backing into my driveway, but I'd like to be able to use them of in behind the truck doing any sort of work, or hooking up my trailer etc
 
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