Question on Handling and Ball Joints/Other Components

[ThatAllDriver]

Hey Everyone,
I love the forum and it has assisted me with learning tons about my 4runner and how it works. I have a 2008 limited v8 4x4. It has about 132,000 miles on it. The vehicle has been maintained well.

I have been noticing some handling concerns. The truck handles smoothly in most circumstances. I am out in Colorado and often drive on I-70, which is the main thoroughfare into the mountains. This road also has a ton of road damage from giant trucks using chains. When i drive around the city, everything seems normal. When I am driving at highway speeds on roads like I-70 that are more prone to potholes, I notice that while going over some road damage or potholes, I experience something similar to a shimmy or lack of control. It’s almost like the bump throws me, and I have to really hold on to the wheel because it’s alarming.

The truck has stock XREAS, which was replaced with Bilstein 6112s in the front and Bilstein 5160s in the back.

The handling is normal on most roads and there is not any vibration felt through the wheel. The main issue is going over bumps and road damage at higher speeds. I do my best to avoid these, but sometimes it’s unavoidable.

I have recently noticed a slight clunk sound at lower speeds when going over speed bumps. I also sometimes hear a light clicking sound while driving straight at lower speeds. The tires are fairly new and tread is adequate.

I have a couple of components that I suspect are causing the problem.

Ball joints - I know that these are subject to wear, and I think it’s a good place to start. Is there an OEM ball joint source, or do I have to replace both LCAs to continue with OEM?

Sway bar links - I am still learning about these but am also wondering if they need replacement.

CV axle - Would wear on this component cause the problems I have?

Lower control arms - would replacing these solve the problem?

I am open to any and all suggestions as sometimes I feel unsafe driving in certain situations in these variable road conditions. I only off-road sometimes, and it’s not too extreme as it’s normally to get to 4x4 high clearance campsites and areas.

I look forward to gaining some more knowledge from t4r members. Thank You!

 

[MikeinNH67]

I would start off by parking your car with wheels straight and key on enough to unlock the steering wheel but engine off. Them move the wheel right and left listening for noise and feeling for looseness. Things that can make hairy highway driving are the steering shaft going bad, loose steering rack bushings and inner/outer tie-rods usually. Your truck doesn't have that much mileage on it, most Toyota ball joint type things last way longer unless damaged. Same for CV's unless the boots are ripped. Sway bar shouldn't do it unless you have one link that is broken. I wouldn't rule out the strut assemblies but would think that's not the issue seeing they are newish.

 

[inscarguy]

Ok, here are some questions. On the 6112's did you get the 600 lb springs or the 650 lb springs? What did you set the perches at? Are you running all terrains? Are you running the stock rear coils. Depending on your ft height did you change the upper arms? Did you change the sway bar bushings? What's your tire pressure at?

If you went with the 650 lb springs and do not have the extra weight on the front like a steel bumper it will ride very hard (ask me how i know). If you did not change the rear coils but have the heavy springs and you hit a bump or when you are at higher speeds this will throw off the stability of the vehicle. If you went too high in the front and the rear coils are worn it can cause your issue. If you are too high and have the stock upper arms the geometry could be off and that could cause it.

I have 2 v8 4runners one an '06 and an '08. The 06 has 145k, 6112s with 650 lb ft coils and Wheelers t12 rear coils. The '08 has 119k, 6112s with 600lb ft coils and bilstein coils in the rear. Both have SPC front upper arms and have 3rd gen rear stabilizer links. The '06 had new general grabber atx tires until recently, now has michelin ltx at's and the '08 has michelin xlt as. Both have 20" rims. The '06 with the generals rode extremely hard and every imperfection in the road threw the truck almost in the other lane. On the highway it was a fight to keep straight and in control. Now with the michelins, its a slightly better ride, smoother on the highway and does not bounce as bad but It still rides hard. I got the 650 lb coils due to the v8 but the v8 does not weigh that much more than the v6 and with no extra weight on the front, the 650s are overkill. The '08 rides butter smooth and is a pleasure to drive.

Depending on how yours is set up with new and old components, things could be mismatched and causing your issue. Also check your steering shaft. This will also fight you at higher speeds.

 

[ThatAllDriver]

I would start off by parking your car with wheels straight and key on enough to unlock the steering wheel but engine off. Them move the wheel right and left listening for noise and feeling for looseness. Things that can make hairy highway driving are the steering shaft going bad, loose steering rack bushings and inner/outer tie-rods usually. Your truck doesn't have that much mileage on it, most Toyota ball joint type things last way longer unless damaged. Same for CV's unless the boots are ripped. Sway bar shouldn't do it unless you have one link that is broken. I wouldn't rule out the strut assemblies but would think that's not the issue seeing they are newish.

Thank you for the response! I had not considered the steering rack, but it seems like that would be a really good place to start. I went over a pretty big pothole in the winter and I’m wondering if this could have damaged the steering rack. The bushings seem like a cheaper and easier place to start than LCAs. I also haven’t gotten an alignment since then. Would the alignment shop be able to tell me if there could be damage on these parts?


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[ThatAllDriver]

Ok, here are some questions. On the 6112's did you get the 600 lb springs or the 650 lb springs? What did you set the perches at? Are you running all terrains? Are you running the stock rear coils. Depending on your ft height did you change the upper arms? Did you change the sway bar bushings? What's your tire pressure at?

If you went with the 650 lb springs and do not have the extra weight on the front like a steel bumper it will ride very hard (ask me how i know). If you did not change the rear coils but have the heavy springs and you hit a bump or when you are at higher speeds this will throw off the stability of the vehicle. If you went too high in the front and the rear coils are worn it can cause your issue. If you are too high and have the stock upper arms the geometry could be off and that could cause it.

I have 2 v8 4runners one an '06 and an '08. The 06 has 145k, 6112s with 650 lb ft coils and Wheelers t12 rear coils. The '08 has 119k, 6112s with 600lb ft coils and bilstein coils in the rear. Both have SPC front upper arms and have 3rd gen rear stabilizer links. The '06 had new general grabber atx tires until recently, now has michelin ltx at's and the '08 has michelin xlt as. Both have 20" rims. The '06 with the generals rode extremely hard and every imperfection in the road threw the truck almost in the other lane. On the highway it was a fight to keep straight and in control. Now with the michelins, its a slightly better ride, smoother on the highway and does not bounce as bad but It still rides hard. I got the 650 lb coils due to the v8 but the v8 does not weigh that much more than the v6 and with no extra weight on the front, the 650s are overkill. The '08 rides butter smooth and is a pleasure to drive.

Depending on how yours is set up with new and old components, things could be mismatched and causing your issue. Also check your steering shaft. This will also fight you at higher speeds.

I appreciate the detailed reply!

I have the 600 lb springs on the front and stock coils in the rear. The perches are at the lowest setting. I bought 265/65r18 BFG KO2s. They are only slightly larger than stock. I am running them at 38-40 psi. I have not changed out any control arms or sway bar bushings. Is this common practice?

Another member suggested I check the steering rack and bushings. I think it’s a good place to start. The LCAs look to be in good condition, and I noticed the front right cv axle has a torn boot.

I totally get what you’re saying about having to sometimes fight to counteract the bumps. I am wondering if the large pothole I went over in the winter could have caused some damage to the steering components.

I’m also glad I went with the 650 lb coils. It’s surprising that another 50 lbs makes such a change! Would you recommend swapping the rear coils? I am also concerned that the steering rack could be the problem. I am thinking an alignment could also be beneficial but I’m not completely sold that it is going to solve everything.


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[inscarguy]

Did you have this problem before you changed the struts? If not how long after did you notice the issue? The stiffer bilsteins will give a firmer ride as well as the BFG's. If there was an issue before but was not noticed than these two factors could have exaggerated the problem and made it more noticeable. Another idea is if tou have a grease gun, go to advance auto, NAPA and get a needle fitting, they are like $4-6.00. It looks like a needle that goes in your arm. Look in amazon too. Put it on the end of the grease gun and pump the ball joints and tie rods full of grease. Inject through the rubber boot. This made a world of difference on mine. I do it on every oil change. If it gets better than you found your problem.

I would personally get new rear coils. One you will have all new struts and springs and the ride will be more balanced. Look into the bilstein ones. They give a good ride and they are available on Amazon. They may lift 1-2 ". If you're ok with that you can always go up 1- notches in the front so it's level. The BFG's are a good size. That's what I had until I got the 20's.