Quick Question about Replacing Belts

Arctic 4x4

New member
I guess I'm an idiot, but I am having trouble figuring out the correct way to replace the two belts in my 1990 T4R 3.0L V6 AUTO 4x4.

There are two belts - one from the main pulleys to the powersteering pump, and one from the main pulleys to the alternator.

In my Ford truck, there was a tensioner pulley that you had to wrench down to relieve tension on the belt, and then you just pull off the belts and replace them.

I can't find any tensioner pulley in this T4R...

So how do I get the belts off? I already have the replacement belts... just can't figure out how to get them on there.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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There should be three belts, but the alternator has two bolts that you loosen. One allows the alternator to pivot and the other goes through a slot that lets the alternator move from side to side. Loosen both of those and it should pivot so that you can get the belt off. The powersteering pump has a similar setup. I can't remember if it has one or two bolts to loosen though. If you have the third belt that I have, it is easiest to get at it from the bottom if you take off the skid plate.

Not sure if there is a better way to replace the belts, but I disconnected the engine fan from the fan motor and slid the belts around the fan motor. Worked easy enough, but someone may be able to chime in on a better way to do this.
 
Hey, thanks a ton for your reply.

I did get it figured out though. You're right - there is no tensioner pulley - you have to loosen the alternator and power steering pump and push them in/out to create the slack needed to remove the belts.

For those who might be trying to do this themselves, here's what you do.

If you look on the PS pump and the alt., there are what I call "slip-guides" that have a bolt screwed through them. Loosen that bolt real good, but don't remove it. Then loosen the "hinge-bolt" a little to free up the PS pump/alt. to move.

Next, you have to move them to create the tension. The PS Pump on a 1990 T4R 3.0L 4x4 will push out and down from the engine toward the battery. The alt. will push out and up away from the engine toward the air box.

Slap your belts on there, and tighten it back up. This can be a 3-4 hand job... keep a buddy on hand to hold the PS Pump/Alt in place while you tighten the bolts.

The bolts on the PS Pump are 14mm, and the ones on the alt were 12mm i believe.

Oh, and on my truck there are only two belts, and two sets of pulleys. Maybe if you have A/C there could be a third belt, but living here in Alaska... A/C isn't something we usually need. :)

Thanks again for the help, and I hope my info above helps someone else trying to get this done cheaply on their own.

Also, I did purchase a CHILTON manual recently that covers prety much everything on "all U.S. and Canadian models of Toyota Pick-Ups, Tacoma, T100, Land Cruiser, and 4Runner; 2 and 4 wheel drive". So if I can help you look something up in the book, please let me know. Always glad to help.

Cheers.
 
To tension the power steering pump, I had my dad slip a belt through the hole for the tension adjustment (the sliver shaped hole that the pump travels through as you modify the tension). He then pulled really hard on the belt and I tightened the bolts down. It was hard to get my tension gauge in there to measure the tension exactly, but from experience and by comparing with the tension of the other belts, I was satisfied with the results.
 
To tension the power steering pump, I had my dad slip a belt through the hole for the tension adjustment (the sliver shaped hole that the pump travels through as you modify the tension). He then pulled really hard on the belt and I tightened the bolts down. It was hard to get my tension gauge in there to measure the tension exactly, but from experience and by comparing with the tension of the other belts, I was satisfied with the results.

I had mine off the other day doing some work and I found an old school tire iron quite useful at tightening them up. Slip the angled end under the alt and pull up, use your free hand to tighten up the bolts. I have used this technique on other vehicles as well...about the only reason I still have this old tire iron.
 
I had mine off the other day doing some work and I found an old school tire iron quite useful at tightening them up. Slip the angled end under the alt and pull up, use your free hand to tighten up the bolts. I have used this technique on other vehicles as well...about the only reason I still have this old tire iron.

I hope I've not awoken the dead by bringing up this post....but Autumn will be here soon.

My plans are to replace my 1997, T4R, OEM Radiator; which will be soon, at that time I plan on replacing all of the belts when the radiator is removed. I have had no problems with the RAD and use he Zerex Original Green and replace it every 2 to 3 years. By removing the radiator for replacement, this might give me a little more room to work on the belts....especially with the A/C belt.

I don't know if this will make the job of replacing the 3 V belts any easier or simpler...so if you have any thoughts?

Maybe someone could be kind enough to chime in and let me know if this would simplify the job?

At the same time, I might as well plan to replace the heater hoses, Radiator hoses and the transmission lines to the Radiator with a Magnafine in-line filter on the return line. I will use the old radiator to drain and flush the system with distilled water and Cascade electric dishwasher detergent before the new radiatior will be installed.

I will wait until I get these components installed before I install the external transmission cooler and moving the transmission cooler lines. I want to make sure all is running properly before I install the cooler.

Lots of money if I replace all of the above from NAPA, so I still have to shop around and save some money to get the job done...and done right.

So if you guys have any thoughts, advice or tips I would be greatly appreciate your responses.

Cheers
 
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