Rack and Pinion Replacement (Ft. Worth area)

Party Boy

Party Boy

Member
My rack and pinion need to be replaced (leaking and clunking) along with my outter tie rods. I've looked up how to do it, and I'm certain that I can't do it for two reasons: I don't have all the tools and it's a bit out of my reach when it comes to my comfort zone. A shop quoted me at about $1000 to replace it for me, which seems pretty steep to me.

My question is, does that seem reasonable for having a shop do it or do any of you recommend a certain shop in my area? Any advice would be much appreciated.

It also looks like my valve cover is leaking, which is just fantastic.
 
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Its literally two bolts for outer tie rod ends, three bolts for rack, unhook steering and hydrolic lines and it comes out. Part is around $250-$450 for aftermarket non oems so thats a lot of labor work they are charging but it sounds close with new tie rod ends also.
 
I just went through this, search a bit and you will find my threads on the subject.

It's not a super easy replacement to do at home, but it is certainly doable. If you have no rust it is probably pretty easy.

Most reman's appear to be reman'd by AAE regardless of the brand they are sold under, so I'd say go with whatever, though I'd still stay away from ultra cheap ones.

An OEM rack will run around $600-700, but that's still too much in labor (and that shop probably won't use OEM). I'd shop around for another shop unless you want to tackle it yourself.
 
I've never done them myself but I have tons of tools, garage, and stands. I'd be willing to lend a hand if you want to save the money. I'm in Saginaw.
 
Nelsonmd said:
I just went through this, search a bit and you will find my threads on the subject.

It's not a super easy replacement to do at home, but it is certainly doable. If you have no rust it is probably pretty easy.

Most reman's appear to be reman'd by AAE regardless of the brand they are sold under, so I'd say go with whatever, though I'd still stay away from ultra cheap ones.

An OEM rack will run around $600-700, but that's still too much in labor (and that shop probably won't use OEM). I'd shop around for another shop unless you want to tackle it yourself.
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Nelson, I read through your thread. I don't know if I missed it, but what did you end up doing? Did you go OEM or did you buy a reman. from somewhere? How's your experience with it been since? I'd like to not have to spend $600 on getting an OEM rack, but I'd also be pretty bummed if I end up having sloppy steering afterwards.

Jaynhunt, I really appreciate the offer. If I decide to go that route and do it myself, I'll PM you and see if we can set something up. Thanks for the offer!
 
When I did mine, the i/p-o/p lines were a problem. I needed to torch the HP line about 5x before I could get it to loosen up without breaking it.
 
Tighten those VC bolts

Party Boy said:
...It also looks like my valve cover is leaking, which is just fantastic.
Click to expand...

This is a common issue on the 3.4s, mine were So loose I could turn several of them by hand a couple turns! So first tighten them all up (10mm), you s/b able to easily reach all the lower ones on each side, sockets, flex heads and wrench in some cases. The upper ones are a bit harder to access and aren't usually the leaking end of things but try to reach them. Clean it up a bit and if you had any burning/smoking going on that could linger for a few weeks until all the residue is gone. Mine have lasted 3 yrs so far albeit I re-tighten about one a year. Luck on all! :banana:
 
Im running a NEW unit from Toyota Steering Rack and Gear Box. I paid $350 shipped. As soon as installed it was loose. It got worse over time, I checked everything. Found the NEW inner tie rod ends where bad from install and got worse over a year period.

I replaced them with my OEMS and its solid now. But one one side of the rack I did see that is looks like fluid is leaking. Once side was clean under boot, the other side looked like fluid mixed with grease. Im afraid the left side seal may be bad, also may be caused by the aftermarket ITRE's not allowing enough droop when I go wheeling.

My recommendation is if you can afford OEM go oem. If not avoid toyotasteering.com. They are also avoiding all my emails and calls.
 
I'm pretty sure I'm just gonna go with NAPA. I've never been disappointed in their products and I feel more comfortable going through them than some website. It's just a slight bummer having to pay them an extra $190 for the core deposit even though I'll get that money back as soon as the job is done. Does anybody advise against this? For it? I'd really like to go OEM, but my wife and I are in the process of buying a house right now and I don't have an extra $300. I'm hoping that the NAPA rack will work well.
 
A lot of times the same parts are sold at all parts stores. You are not buying Napa product. When you go to walmart you dont buy walmart TV's, you buy a tv made by samsung from walmart. So ask them the brand and research it. Pretty much from what I have found on research is they are all hit and miss. Dont madder where you get it. One can be good, the next bad. Its who has best customer service and you know Napa has good service.
 
Well if you need a new shop I always take mine to 2nd opinion in haltom city off of carson he has always done me right and will only fix what is necessary. Ive had him find parts in junk yard for other fixes ive had and is fairly quick on getting the car back to you. You can give them a call and see if his quote is close to your shop your using. If you decide to do it yourself then shoot me a pm and i wouldnt mind helping ya and the other guy that offered his garage and tools ive never replaced a rack and pinion but always like to learn something new.
 
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