Radiator Won't Drain

[Bad Luck]

Yeah, this made things exciting.

My owner's manual says the capacity for my 2002 (sans rear heater) is 8.5 quarts. I got 8 out during the drain (both the initial coolant drain and the "rinse") so I calculated .5 quart of some fluid left in there that was anywhere from .5 quart of 100% distilled water to some diluted version of distilled water @ .5 quart. I'm assuming it was more water than coolant at that point. I did some guesstimating in Excel and figured I was probably in a ratio range between 52:48 to 48:52, distilled water to Toyota Red.

I'm not sure if anyone suggested it or if you are using it, but a spill free funnel and parking on an incline helps a lot with purging all the air from the engine cooling system.

Something like this is what you're looking for: Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, Near Universal Fitment, Translucent, 15 Piece Set, Cooling System Funnel Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators: Automotive

 

[vonhughes]

I'm not sure if anyone suggested it or if you are using it, but a spill free funnel and parking on an incline helps a lot with purging all the air from the engine cooling system.

Something like this is what you're looking for: Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, Near Universal Fitment, Translucent, 15 Piece Set, Cooling System Funnel Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators: Automotive

Yes, I did end up getting that OEM funnel from Amazon. It kicks ass! Wifey ordered it up for me and it took < 48 hours to arrive thanks to Prime.

Happily I have a decent incline backing out of my garage, so I did take advantage of the air "going up" as Tim said in his video.

I was able to get 8 quarts out during the initial drain, and also the "rinse cycle" so I feel like I had the tools and patience to get damn near everything out, without trying to find those two drain bolts for the engine block. Met my objective of trying to make the situation better to excellent, rather than dying on the hill of perfection!

Happily I've seen the engine and tranny temp drop a couple of degrees since the swap out, so I'm happy.

One question for anyone who reads this...when the engine is at operating temperature (180+ Fahrenheit) how close to the "FULL" line in the overflow res should it be? After a 15 mile drive today, mine was about dead center between the low line and the full line. Is that enough or should I add a little more into the container to get it up to the top line?

 

[Bad Luck]

One question for anyone who reads this...when the engine is at operating temperature (180+ Fahrenheit) how close to the "FULL" line in the overflow res should it be? After a 15 mile drive today, mine was about dead center between the low line and the full line. Is that enough or should I add a little more into the container to get it up to the top line?

I like to fill it to the hot line on the overflow tank after driving for a half hour or so. This way I know for sure where my coolant level is when I recheck it.

 

[vonhughes]

I like to fill it to the hot line on the overflow tank after driving for a half hour or so. This way I know for sure where my coolant level is when I recheck it.

Nice.

Does the overflow tank pressurize like the radiator itself? Just trying to determine when it's reasonable to have the reference point of filling it up when it's hot enough to refill to that line, but not hot enough to turn me into Nikki Lauda.

 

[Bad Luck]

Nice.

Does the overflow tank pressurize like the radiator itself? Just trying to determine when it's reasonable to have the reference point of filling it up when it's hot enough to refill to that line, but not hot enough to turn me into Nikki Lauda.

LOL The overflow tank isn't pressurized so you can adjust at any time

 

[phattyduck]

careful with ''rinsing'', as you won't ever get all the water out after the fact. So, calculating your coolant concentration is impossible because you don't know how much water dilluted with coolant is left in there. Just keep that in mind.

Eh, the exact coolant mixture isn't that important. More water = more ability to remove heat (good in hot weather), more coolant = more ability to avoid freezing (good is cold weather). Anywhere between 40-60% coolant will get you down the road just fine in most of the lower 48.

-Charlie

 

[3bears]

up here we run about 60% +...need to be good to minus 50 in winter

 

[phattyduck]

up here we run about 60% +...need to be good to minus 50 in winter

I did a couple nights of -15-20*F years ago with a car that had about 35% antifreeze in the engine. Crossed my fingers when I finally went to start it up. Luckily no issues. Temps below 0*F are rare, even in the high sierras...

-Charlie