Rail dust
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03RoadRunner
New member
Meguires ScratchX
Hey Andy,
Had the same issue with my Diamond White Sequoia...the guy worked for the railroad nearby....so it had a ton.
I took several days about 2-3hrs to get it all off with Meguires ScratchX. It took a lot of swirl motions and elbow grease...but man! It took it off...amazing.
Good Luck,
Bfrosty
Hey Andy,
Had the same issue with my Diamond White Sequoia...the guy worked for the railroad nearby....so it had a ton.
I took several days about 2-3hrs to get it all off with Meguires ScratchX. It took a lot of swirl motions and elbow grease...but man! It took it off...amazing.
Good Luck,
Bfrosty
clarkscars83
New member
The dearlership should take care of the issue if you bought it new from them, the one i worked for would anyway, and when you take it back to them tell them you would like it clayed to remove the rail dust because there are plenty of "quick fix" solution to just hide it for awhile, good luck
Old thread but I thought I'd chime in.
A good product to use to remove the rail dust from the paint is CarPro IronX Iron remover. It will remove all of the rail dust and you just use a littler in some water and wash the vehicle. I've done this on my father's Avalon. His is pearl white so the rust spots are very noticeable. Once your done washing the vehicle you MUST wash it again with dish soap/water then you MUST clay bar and buff the vehicle. After washing both times I will use a cutting compound with a cutting pad then step up to a polishing pad and polishing compound. Finally I will use a wax, hand applied and buff it off. An extra step would be to spray wax the entire vehicle.
Make sure to wax the vehicle at least once a month be it spray wax or better a hand wax. This will help keep more of this crap from embedding into your paint in the future.
A good product to use to remove the rail dust from the paint is CarPro IronX Iron remover. It will remove all of the rail dust and you just use a littler in some water and wash the vehicle. I've done this on my father's Avalon. His is pearl white so the rust spots are very noticeable. Once your done washing the vehicle you MUST wash it again with dish soap/water then you MUST clay bar and buff the vehicle. After washing both times I will use a cutting compound with a cutting pad then step up to a polishing pad and polishing compound. Finally I will use a wax, hand applied and buff it off. An extra step would be to spray wax the entire vehicle.
Make sure to wax the vehicle at least once a month be it spray wax or better a hand wax. This will help keep more of this crap from embedding into your paint in the future.
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kcSNOWrunner
New member
Iron Removal spray
super old thread but thought I'd also chime in for anyone like me trying to figure out how to get rid of rail dust for the first time.
i work near a train track and I'm dealign with a crappy rail dust issue on my new-to-me 2016 white 4R and was getting really discouraged with the general 2-4hr claybar treatment process. I never saw rail dust on my black jeep but its shows up on the white 4R big time. Everything i saw was basically about committing to a 2-4hr clay bar treatment process which i was getting really discouraged about ... but while researching I noticed that Adams Polishes came out with a spray on Iron Removal product just a few weeks ago (April 2018) that is made exactly to combat the rail dust issue for those of us that live or work in a more industrial area. Im gonna buy a bottle and try it out... probably will have to follow up with their clay bar and/or clay glove as well if the spray doesnt get most of it off.
here's Adam's demo video of the Iron Removal spray
i have no affiliation with Adams, im not sponsored by them or anything, its a coincidence my post is coming right on the heels of their new product release.
super old thread but thought I'd also chime in for anyone like me trying to figure out how to get rid of rail dust for the first time.
i work near a train track and I'm dealign with a crappy rail dust issue on my new-to-me 2016 white 4R and was getting really discouraged with the general 2-4hr claybar treatment process. I never saw rail dust on my black jeep but its shows up on the white 4R big time. Everything i saw was basically about committing to a 2-4hr clay bar treatment process which i was getting really discouraged about ... but while researching I noticed that Adams Polishes came out with a spray on Iron Removal product just a few weeks ago (April 2018) that is made exactly to combat the rail dust issue for those of us that live or work in a more industrial area. Im gonna buy a bottle and try it out... probably will have to follow up with their clay bar and/or clay glove as well if the spray doesnt get most of it off.
here's Adam's demo video of the Iron Removal spray
i have no affiliation with Adams, im not sponsored by them or anything, its a coincidence my post is coming right on the heels of their new product release.
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JVC8790
New member
+1 for CarPro Iron-X. We used it at the dealer I used to work at and it worked WONDERS for brand new cars that came in covered in rail dust from being transported across the country by rail.
After Iron-X you can then go about your usual compound/polish/sealant process, but to be honest, I wouldn't waste my time using clay bar or polishing out rail dust when I've seen how quickly Iron-X can get the job done and leave the paint smooth to the touch ready for additional steps.
thennen
New member
Rail dust - now there's something I have never heard of before. Learn something new every day.
JVC8790
New member
It's very much a thing. When cars are transported via trains and not completely protected (transport bags vs transport plastic on some surfaces).
We experienced it the worst because the manufacturer I worked for used rail yards as holding hubs for large quantities of vehicles. Often times when finding a good deal on a less than desirable color combination that had been "in inventory" for a long time sitting at a rail yard, we would just know that it was going to come in looking pretty peppered with little rusty specs everywhere.
Our detailer used to polish every car that came in with rail dust because it was noticeable to the touch and visible especially on white cars, then he convinced the company to buy Iron-X and ever since he could decontaminate a really rail dusty car in a matter of 10-15 minutes by spraying the whole car down and letting it work its magic.
thennen
New member
That makes perfect sense. I just never heard of it before. Thanks for sharing!
For what its worth, bought a new white Toyotoa Celica GT 5 spd convertible in "88, picked up on July 3rd for a 2 week vacation trip to Key West from Ohio. 2 weeks after I got home I noticed an "orange haze" on the hood, and took it back to the dealer. Talked to the dealership shop manager, they gave me a loaner GT and in a week mine was returned to me, looking good. A moth later the same "orange haze" showed up on the trunk lid, and I went back to the dealership, where I talked to the Asst. shop mgr, who related that this was rail dust caught between the paint and the clear coat, having not been cleaned property, and that it was oxydizing/rusting. He related that, as had been done with the hood, they would scuff the clear and repaint and re-clear the trunk lid. When I questioned why rust was left trapped between tow layers of paint, I was told it was "standard procedure".
I was a plain-clothes police sergeant, in slacks and a suit coat and a tie, with a small 45 in a shoulder holster under my left arm. As you can imagine, I found this revelation VERY interesting, and asked to see the general manager. After a 30 minute wait and repeated requests to see the general manager, and repeatedly told He was busy and would see mean in a minute, I became a bit perturbed. I took off my jacket and badge clipped to my belt, and with my 45 in plain view, announced in a loud voice that I was tired of waiting to see the "boss". Probably 20 customers in the showroom noticed and scurried out to the parking lot in less than 2 minutes. I was in the General manager's office in less less than a minute afterwards. He explained that what they were doing to remediate the "problem" was proper and I had no recourse but to accept it.
Long and short, after a year in negotiations and arbitrations, I received an award equal to my purchase price, the interest I had paid over the 18 months of the loan, and $1500 for travel expenses, attorney fees, and costs.
I was a plain-clothes police sergeant, in slacks and a suit coat and a tie, with a small 45 in a shoulder holster under my left arm. As you can imagine, I found this revelation VERY interesting, and asked to see the general manager. After a 30 minute wait and repeated requests to see the general manager, and repeatedly told He was busy and would see mean in a minute, I became a bit perturbed. I took off my jacket and badge clipped to my belt, and with my 45 in plain view, announced in a loud voice that I was tired of waiting to see the "boss". Probably 20 customers in the showroom noticed and scurried out to the parking lot in less than 2 minutes. I was in the General manager's office in less less than a minute afterwards. He explained that what they were doing to remediate the "problem" was proper and I had no recourse but to accept it.
Long and short, after a year in negotiations and arbitrations, I received an award equal to my purchase price, the interest I had paid over the 18 months of the loan, and $1500 for travel expenses, attorney fees, and costs.
FiReBReTHa
New member
I bought this in lieu of clay bar and haven't looked back. Make sure it's slippery as hell and never hits a dry spot but easy and took less than 30min I think for whole vehicle. I like near train tracks so this is easy enough I can keep up with it.
Amazon.com: AUTOSCRUB Medium Grade Sponge [AS-018] : Automotive
Amazon.com: AUTOSCRUB Medium Grade Sponge [AS-018] : Automotive
