Ran Expandable Power to Rear for Fridge and Future Accessories

[JasonKoko]

I was an electric fork lift mechanic and all ground wires were individually fused just like the hot wires for safety. And also everything had a full dedicated ground wire



When dealing with high amperage a full run ground is best

True- but apples/oranges. You could also wrap every wire in heat wrap and secure it every 6" with a tie wrap,,,but why?



I don't want to derail a good thread, so I will leave it at that.



Op- I know the time/effort it takes to make these writeups (much less a video!) so nice job- keep it going.

Love how you guys are having a friendly debate on how best to do this.

When I was consulting with someone on how best to do it, it was explained to me that either would work, but his rationale was that running both lines was ultimately better for what he felt like I needed. If running the ground was twice as hard, perhaps I wouldn’t have, but it wasn’t.

Something else was the potential for having some possible interference with audio electronics, I.e. radio or a future HAM install. Might not have been an issue and I’m aware of debates online regarding that as well - but I didn’t want to get down the road and do something and uncover a new anomaly!

Thanks antmam! And thanks to everyone else for your comments!





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[JasonKoko]

Great video Jason, thank you. I am interested in your solution (future video??) for the stock battery connectors not reaching the terminals.

Coming up!!

But As a spoiler, i went with slee terminals.


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[BP22]

Coming up!!

But As a spoiler, i went with slee terminals.


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Thank you Jason. Looking forward to the video.

 

[Bumbo]

Coming up!!

But As a spoiler, i went with slee terminals.


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If you don't mind a suggestion... I would invest in a hydraulic crimping tool and use lug connectors. You could get one at harbor freight for $50, and plenty of other options are available as well.

I saw how you were crimping in the video and I didn’t want to criticize or add any negativity, but it’s not ideal. I would say it’s fine for a temporary connection or trail repair, but I would want to complete it using the right tools for the following reasons.

A proper crimp gives a low resistance cold weld. It pretty much eliminates any possibility of moisture going into the lug and promoting corrosion and high resistance over time. Its mechanically sound in high vibration environments like in automotive applications. All of this without soldering which is generally against best practices in these types of applications. I wont go into why, but it’s well discussed. You can finish the crimp termination with some dielectric grease on the exposed copper wire and finish with adhesive linked shrink for a water tight connection.

I did look up the slee terminals and they look like screw on connectors? Please correct me if I am wrong. I see these a lot in the car audio world (detent retaining) and they don’t provide the best mechanical durability or the lowest resistance. They require more maintenance over time.

I’m happy to help, just send me a PM.

I also had to to-do my factory terminals, used good mil-spec blocks from Fastronics

https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_1/134-4228857-6167003?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00X36RILW&pd_rd_r=c0b6dbc5-523e-11e9-8a77-f188713467c0&pd_rd_w=48FOx&pd_rd_wg=iFOut&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=FFZNTE4X0TBPJV124KGM&psc=1&refRID=FFZNTE4X0TBPJV124KGM