RCI Differential skid plate as jack point?

Grug556

New member
Guys anybody know if when the RCI rear differential skid plate is installed if you can still use center of differential as jack point for lifting? Typically I put service jack and lift the rear of the truck via the differential with two jack stands on either side of rear axle. Wasnt sure if the new RCI diff skid plate is safe to use as a lift point with the service jack? I thought I would ask before I say bent it in half.. figured somebody would know. Cant find anything online or at RCI on this. Thanks!
 
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i've jacked on the rci diff skid to rotate tires. No problems

Yeah worked well used the jack on it. Guys question on the install on the diff skidplate. I used red loctite on all the 14mm nuts that go with the carraige bolts. For the section right underneath the bell housing where the driveshaft collar connects to the main skid plate, theres two semi hidden bolts. Any tricks to getting them in? I couldnt use ratchet wrench, regular box wrench, socket, long box or others. Barely got it using a slim 14mm but was limited to how much I could torque it as wrench got stuck. BTW... dropping a SK stubby into the skid once it was all bolted on was a lot of fun

Any tricks on those two hidden bolts? I have maybe 2 threads showing with how hard I have them torqued down. Just want to make sure they dont pop off and grenade the driveshaft due to vibration. Thanks!

Pro tip... doing this with wet snow with the truck in the garage but me laying outside in the wet snow and getting dumped on and soaked for 3 hours.. yeah that was a lot of fun. The sk stubby was hard to fish out
 
I use the area where the RCI engine and diff skid plates overlap as a front jack point without problems or deformation (at least so far).

I figure it's designed to take the weight of the vehicle on a rock in a dynamic environment so a slowly applied load to static shouldn't be a problem.

If it ends up being an issue, I guess I would rather know so I can rethink my armor for the trail.
 
I use the area where the RCI engine and diff skid plates overlap as a front jack point without problems or deformation (at least so far).

I figure it's designed to take the weight of the vehicle on a rock in a dynamic environment so a slowly applied load to static shouldn't be a problem.

If it ends up being an issue, I guess I would rather know so I can rethink my armor for the trail.

I have mixed metal on mine. I have RCI engine, trans, transfer case and gas tank made out of aluminum. Cross brace for transfer case is steel and the rear differential skid is steel as well. I sort of wish I had of gotten all steel, main reason I didnt was rust.

From what Ive seen the aluminum front may not hold up to well longterm. Likely may change that out for RCI steel and keep the mid skids aluminum
 
Yeah worked well used the jack on it. Guys question on the install on the diff skidplate. I used red loctite on all the 14mm nuts that go with the carraige bolts. For the section right underneath the bell housing where the driveshaft collar connects to the main skid plate, theres two semi hidden bolts. Any tricks to getting them in? I couldnt use ratchet wrench, regular box wrench, socket, long box or others. Barely got it using a slim 14mm but was limited to how much I could torque it as wrench got stuck. BTW... dropping a SK stubby into the skid once it was all bolted on was a lot of fun

Any tricks on those two hidden bolts? I have maybe 2 threads showing with how hard I have them torqued down. Just want to make sure they dont pop off and grenade the driveshaft due to vibration. Thanks!

Pro tip... doing this with wet snow with the truck in the garage but me laying outside in the wet snow and getting dumped on and soaked for 3 hours.. yeah that was a lot of fun. The sk stubby was hard to fish out

i watched a video on youtube on how to install the RCI diff on a tacoma if i remember right cuz of the two bolts on the clamp thingamabob. I don't remember what the exact sequence was on how i got it to go on.
 
I use the area where the RCI engine and diff skid plates overlap as a front jack point without problems or deformation (at least so far).

I figure it's designed to take the weight of the vehicle on a rock in a dynamic environment so a slowly applied load to static shouldn't be a problem.

If it ends up being an issue, I guess I would rather know so I can rethink my armor for the trail.


I have RCI engine and tranny plates. And just added their TC skid. All in aluminum.
I used the same area as described to jack the frontend to rotate my tires. No issue.
Subsequently took off the plates for undercoating. Nothing seems to be broken, all went back on fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
i watched a video on youtube on how to install the RCI diff on a tacoma if i remember right cuz of the two bolts on the clamp thingamabob. I don't remember what the exact sequence was on how i got it to go on.

the guy with the tan painted one? I watched it to. Theres a couple wiht 4 runners..and they are like dont get wrench stuck. Then they get wrench stuck and they edit out the time wasted. Never did say how they did it.
 
the guy with the tan painted one? I watched it to. Theres a couple wiht 4 runners..and they are like dont get wrench stuck. Then they get wrench stuck and they edit out the time wasted. Never did say how they did it.

Ok so now I remember.

Basically, you need to use open ended wrenches and don’t tighten anything until the last step. If you use the closed end , you can’t remove the wrench lol

He didn’t show the wrenching part cuz it’s a pain in the ass since you have to use a open ended wrench and tighten it in millimeter increments.

Also good idea to use a jack to support the diff skid while doing this so u don’t fight gravity.

I think in the Tacoma video he explains it at the very end. There is another step that is annoying but I don’t remember what it was
 
Ok so now I remember.

Basically, you need to use open ended wrenches and don’t tighten anything until the last step. If you use the closed end , you can’t remove the wrench lol

He didn’t show the wrenching part cuz it’s a pain in the ass since you have to use a open ended wrench and tighten it in millimeter increments.

Also good idea to use a jack to support the diff skid while doing this so u don’t fight gravity.

I think in the Tacoma video he explains it at the very end. There is another step that is annoying but I don’t remember what it was

YEah used a mini bottle jack under it to boost it up. At first I had it balanced on the side of my face..hahaha it got old real quick. Its funny cause even standard open end wrenchs didnt fit. I had to use an ultra slim set that I had. Not a big deal but they should have reversed the bolts and had small piece of steel protect them so the threads protrude for easier fastener tightening.

When I dropped my SK stubby it got stuck under the drain opening.. I had to use a plastic thing to slowly fish it out. This was fun. Even better that it was snowing with wet snow. Still much more to do! :pound::pound:
 

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