Rdgt4r: My arb install pics to come

theizzardking

New member
was trying to send this in a pm and failed too long, and anyways i think other can benefit as well, so for now here is a txt only version of my install



remove all previous bumper stuffs

1.remove mounting flanges attached to frame rails with sawzall,
get as close as you can to the plate, trying to only cut the spot welds on the frame rails,
grind down any welds left on frame rails once the mounting flanges are removed,

2.from there slide the arb mounts over the frame rails and put the bolts in very loosely,

2.A. (optional)also at this point in time you may want to notch the fender, i'll try and find a photo and send it a bit later of what i'm talking about..... on the fender just below the head light assy you will see that the sheet metal from the fenders kinda hang out just a hair further from the bolts that attach that small little corner piece of the fender to the rest of the truck, i cut a small little triangle out here about 1.5 inches big, you will see later when your trying to align the bumper that this little curve/corner of the fender stops the bumper from going all of the way up and touching the little rubber contact pads of the grill mount, you should what i'm talking about when you look under the grill when everything is removed, this is where your bumper should end up (touching the pads)

3.from there line up grooves in the arb bumper to the wavy/bumpy pieces on top of the mounts and slide it back using a dead blow/rubber mallet to get it to drop in all of the way, lift the bumper up just to get the bolt holes to align on the inside bumper and put bolts in very loosely, now your bumper should be aligned from left to right,

4.get a jack out with a block of wood and place it under one of the vertical rib plates in the bumper (that being the one directly under the towers/tubes under the bumper, the vertical plate) and start to jack the bumper up into position tighten then bolts on that side almost as tight as they can go, repeat the other side, and that's that your bumper should be almost flush on all side and level on top, don't forget to use a tq wrench and lock everything in place,

5. extra crap: also do the turn lights and all of the wiring before you put the bumper on, it's not that big of a deal becuase i did it all after, it does seem slightly easier with the bumper off, also when assembling the lights don't do it the way the instructions tell you put the black plugs in the back part of the housing and insert housing making sure the little black plugs go through the hole in back and stay in their grooves in the housing, after all of that is sorted then put the front cover on and screw it in, if you do it like the instructions tell it becomes much more difficult to make sure those plugs are doing their job, if you have it i suggest replacing that whole black plug and screw attachment system with a m4x55mm button head cap screw and nut, it will be a much more sturdy attachment method, i managed to bend one of these stupid little plugs and had to use a clip from a speaker mounting kit to get the screw to grab and go through, you'll see what i'm talking about what you pull the lights out, it's really kinda cheap and stupid and really my only complaint about the bumper and kit.
 
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fixed!!!!!


also i'd like to mention if you cut the flanges out right you can easily weld them back on, and i mean easily, i also find it's best to cut from the inside of the truck with the blade pointing out from the truck, as in sit in front of the rad. and point your blade towards the drivers side or passengers side, this gives you the best angle and most clearance for cutting those flanges.



i will be pulling the bumper off here in a bit to add my winch and possibly cut the slots out for my stock fogs i'll get good pics of the notching and the rest then if i cannot find anything sooner
 
Good write up! I found that if you don't have a sawsall (my battery was charging at the time and I didn't want to wait), you can get by just fine with just an angle grinder to remove the mounting flanges. Actually I think the grinder worked even better than a sawsall.

Rtgt4r,
There are different methods to make the ARB look good with a body lift, I chose to just drill new holes in the bumper (not the mounts). Another way is to cut off the part on each mount that has the holes that the bolts thread into and then weld that section higher. I think the second method is better for 2"+ BLs, but drilling new holes in the bumper worked great for a 1" and didn't require welding so IMO this is the better way. You can also PM me if you have questions.
 
Izzardking, you may want to consider not shoving the bumper right up against the bottom of the grill. It's good IMO to leave 1/3-1/2" of gap for a cushion so if you bang the bumper, it won't do body damage too.
 
Izzardking, you may want to consider not shoving the bumper right up against the bottom of the grill. It's good IMO to leave 1/3-1/2" of gap for a cushion so if you bang the bumper, it won't do body damage too.

oh there's still a bit of a gap there about what you described, it just looks flush unless your right on top of it
 
crappy cell pics

IMAG0005.jpg~original

IMAG0006.jpg~original

IMAG0004.jpg~original

IMAG0003.jpg~original

IMAG0002.jpg~original
 
thanks man i'm going to home depot this weekend to see if i can find a little bit of rubber to close that gap, i was wondering why no trim piece like the padro bumper has, you know that little curved piece of plastic that sits on top of the bumper and in between the grill ? i would like that as if i did get hit it would break that and not my fenders and such, plus it'll look really clean, so yeah first i'm going to home depot and seeing what i can find to make it look nice and if that doesn't work i may try and retro fit one of the padro pieces.
 

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