Rear Axle problems

WheelinGypsy

New member
About 5 months ago I put a whole factory elocker rear axle from a rolled 4runner onto my 4runner. At first, when driving it was clear the axle shaft was bent due to the tire wobbling, this caused the seal to blow and the bearing to go out.

I replaced it with an entirely different axle shaft, bearing and drum assembly and all was fine until I went wheeling and now it’s leaking AGAIN, and I feel the same slop in the new bearing AGAIN.

What could have caused this? I’ve had 3 seals and bearings fail, all on the driver side. Do I have a bent housing or something? I hate the design of these ABS rear axles.
 
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About 5 months ago I put a whole factory elocker rear axle from a rolled 4runner onto my 4runner. At first, when driving it was clear the axle shaft was bent due to the tire wobbling, this caused the seal to blow and the bearing to go out.

I replaced it with an entirely different axle shaft, bearing and drum assembly and all was fine until I went wheeling and now it’s leaking AGAIN, and I feel the same slop in the new bearing AGAIN.

What could have caused this? I’ve had 3 seals and bearings fail, all on the driver side. Do I have a bent housing or something? I hate the design of these ABS rear axles.

Housing could be bent. A reputable axle shop should be able to put the axle in a jig to check for straightness. Have you checked the axles for straightness/runout before installing them? Also, if you're not aware, the new axle seal design is notorious for leaking if the retaining collar that the seal rides on is not in the proper location on the axle shaft. The Oem collar location is not effective to seal with the new axle seal design so it could just be that minor issue. Are you doing a "grease test" to check where the axle seal is riding on the collar when the axle is installed?
 
You used an axle out of a rolled truck? Something I would NEVER do. On top of that, you didn't have the whole axle gone through and inspected before installing it? Took quite a few risks and now you're paying the price. I'd start looking for another axle out of worthy donor truck.
 
Housing could be bent. A reputable axle shop should be able to put the axle in a jig to check for straightness. Have you checked the axles for straightness/runout before installing them? Also, if you're not aware, the new axle seal design is notorious for leaking if the retaining collar that the seal rides on is not in the proper location on the axle shaft. The Oem collar location is not effective to seal with the new axle seal design so it could just be that minor issue. Are you doing a "grease test" to check where the axle seal is riding on the collar when the axle is installed?

Yeah I did a rough look when it was pulled, the wheel rotates smooth on it and there isn’t any tow or camber. I’m not familiar with the grease test or the different metal ring position.
 
You used an axle out of a rolled truck? Something I would NEVER do. On top of that, you didn't have the whole axle gone through and inspected before installing it? Took quite a few risks and now you're paying the price. I'd start looking for another axle out of worthy donor truck.

Well I got the whole rear end and elocker for free so I just threw it on.
 
Well I got the whole rear end and elocker for free so I just threw it on.

You're ahead of the game then. Pull it and drop it at a local trusted shop. Have them go through it and freshen it up. If they find the housing is bent, you may be able to swap the guts into your old housing, not sure but I don't see why not.
 
you may be able to swap the guts into your old housing, not sure but I don't see why not.

why not use your old housing and swap all of the parts over to it or am I missing something ...

E-locker and standard housings are different.

The E-locker housing has a cut out to allow the locker to fit. It also has a few extra studs. It's not a major deal to convert a standard housing to an e-locked housing. It just involves some grinding, welding, drilling and tapping. There's a few write-ups online about doing it.
 
Yeah I did a rough look when it was pulled, the wheel rotates smooth on it and there isn’t any tow or camber. I’m not familiar with the grease test or the different metal ring position.

Drcoffee posted the thread with info on the aforementioned grease test and info on the seal designs above this post. Would recommend checking it out. Solution could be as simple as adjusting the retaining collar location on the axle.
 
Thanks for your help!
One last question is how bad would it be if I kept driving on it for a few days? I can feel the wheel clunking around on gravel roads.
 
Thanks for your help!
One last question is how bad would it be if I kept driving on it for a few days? I can feel the wheel clunking around on gravel roads.


Once the the bearing goes completely your wheel and axle will go with it. And by go I mean you'll watch them pass you as you come to a grinding halt. Could be tomorrow could be five years from now. How lucky you feeling this week?
 

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