Rear Axle seal?

G

Gadgetguy

New member
Crappy pic I know. It kind of looks like it's been leaking for a while. This will be the newest Toyota rear axle I will have ever worked on. This is on the passenger side, I'm contemplating just doing both sides since I'll need to bleed the brakes anyways.

It took me a minute to figure out that those were ABS sensors on the rear axle so I think I have that figured out. Research tells me the seal rests more inward from the sensor so it can't be that I just need to tighten down the sensor to stop the leak (even that is the wettest part).

It is definitely gear oil, I did the sniff check :barf:

So just like any other rear Toy axle is how it appears to me aside from the sensor. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the hub/shaft to the axle housing, remove brake line, remove sensor, de-tach e-brake cable, then pull out the entire shaft drum and all correct?

Is there anything mechanically that cause cause this seal to fail aside from just age/wear such as a wheel bearing etc? Also, do I need to know anything fancy about bleeding the ABS system?

1997, 3.4, e-locker, ABS.

Thanks guys!
 

Attachments

  • 20160723_161246.jpg
    20160723_161246.jpg
    129.9 KB · Views: 538
Register to hide this ad
If it is axle seal, the oil will come to drum first. Pull the drum to see.

Yes the series is correct except removing the sensor. (you can leave it in the axle) just like any other rear Toy axle is how it appears to me aside from the sensor. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the hub/shaft to the axle housing, remove brake line, de-tach e-brake cable, then pull out the entire shaft drum and all correct?

Check the free play in the bearings. When you place the axle by its 6 studs, grab the dust shield and move up and down. If it moves say about 2-3 mm, than nothing wrong with the bearing. Anything more, yes, you need to replace the bearings.

Get the seals from the dealer. Bearings should be a good brand like NTN, KOYO, SKF or NACHI. The factory bearing is Nachi. Also get axle seal driver to install the seals.
 
Gadgetguy said:
Crappy pic I know. It kind of looks like it's been leaking for a while. This will be the newest Toyota rear axle I will have ever worked on. This is on the passenger side, I'm contemplating just doing both sides since I'll need to bleed the brakes anyways.

It took me a minute to figure out that those were ABS sensors on the rear axle so I think I have that figured out. Research tells me the seal rests more inward from the sensor so it can't be that I just need to tighten down the sensor to stop the leak (even that is the wettest part).

It is definitely gear oil, I did the sniff check :barf:

So just like any other rear Toy axle is how it appears to me aside from the sensor. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the hub/shaft to the axle housing, remove brake line, remove sensor, de-tach e-brake cable, then pull out the entire shaft drum and all correct?

Is there anything mechanically that cause cause this seal to fail aside from just age/wear such as a wheel bearing etc? Also, do I need to know anything fancy about bleeding the ABS system?

1997, 3.4, e-locker, ABS.

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Read this thread and DrCoffees thread mentioned in the thread.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html#post571040

No need to worry about bleeding the ABS. Just carefully pinch off the flexible hose above the axle. Those plastic hose pinch pliers work best. There's also a kind of vice grip made especially for this which is what I have. These are similar. Just make sure your hose isn't cracking or too dry.

Radiator Hose Pinch-Off Pliers
 
Lots of times a failed axle seal can be attributed to a worn wheel bearing. If you're going to do this job right, you should replace the bearings too at a minimum. Some decide to reuse the retainers and ABS gears because they were able to press them off without damaging them. If one side is leaking, most decide to just do both axles at the same time.

The most important part you need to know is the axle seal was redesigned a while back and the lip of the seal sits appx 2mm more inboard now. You have to adjust the position of the retainer on the axle to compensate for this so the seal is riding on the machine polished surface and not on the unpolished bevel.

There's very good write-ups on this subject on the forum. [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] came up with his own signature way to flip the retainers and you can read all the discussion on his thread. [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] has a very complete write-up as well.

You will either have to bring your axles to a trusted machine shop to remove and replace the parts on the axles for you or do it yourself if you have your own press. The important thing is to take measurements before everything comes off the axles so you know exactly where all the parts should be pressed back onto. The retainers are the exception because you'll be adjusting their position due to the new axle seal design. Whether you choose to flip the retainers or just move them a little more inboard will be up to you once you read up on it. The most important thing is to do the grease test to verify where the lip of the seal is riding of the retainer. There are lots and lots of people who have replaced the seals and found they are leaking again right away because they didn't verify where the seal lip was riding.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the help everyone, I'm not going to quote everything because I get the jist of it all.

I'm going to tear it apart and slap a seal in it just to see what happens, and use a Toyota part. I have a fantastic diff/trans guy that can do the rest of the work and he charges me more than fairly.

I will definitely use your tip to check the bearings, at 312,000 miles it wouldn't be absurd that they needed to be replaced. It is not a bad leak, so far. I just want to take care of it asap.

As far as the oil hitting the drum before leaking out..... that might make another noise very clear to me. On the way back down from my last wheeling adventure I was getting a good "pop, pop........pop" sound. It was somewhat random. Will gear oil cause the shoes or anything else in the brake system to make that sort of noise? The kicker is both of my front cv's are TOAST from the past two summers of wheeling and driving up to go snowboarding with torn boots. I kind of assumed the popping was my cv's, especially the passenger which flops around like crazy at this point. I think the cage might be cracked on the pass side.

I'm pretty sure I need to bleed the brakes, I have a feeling there may be some water in the lines. Last winter there were a few "uh oh" moments first thing in the morning going down my driveway like there was water in the lines that had frozen, this was a planned thing aside from this job anyways.

Thanks everyone! I probably won't tackle this until next week as it isn't dire at this point. She is getting new cvs, pads and rotors (at the least). I will be thoroughly inspecting ball joints etc and probably replacing the lowers for piece of mind. I have to say though, these things can take a good beating!
 
At 300,000+ miles I can GUARANTEE that the bearing is shot. Just did mine at 295,000 miles. Hardest part of job is finding a competent machine shop to do the bearing work. Ask at your local Toyota stealership where they sent their axle jobs.
 
Go ahead and change the bearings OP. At your mileage it is warranted. Besides, it's already out and gear oil has to be drained & replaced plus brake bleed. A one time job for all if you include new Oem wheel bearings... Even a refresh of rear brakes
 
Get your self a Harborfreight 12 ton shop press (H-shaped). You can install the bearings on your own. There are many issues with a machine shop installing the bearing into the axle. The retainer must rest right on the oil seal. If you got the press, you can slide in the retainer ring in small increments to lineup with the oil seal. This will also save you money. I am planning to buy my own shop press soon!
 
nissanh said:
Get your self a Harborfreight 12 ton shop press (H-shaped). You can install the bearings on your own. There are many issues with a machine shop installing the bearing into the axle. The retainer must rest right on the oil seal. If you got the press, you can slide in the retainer ring in small increments to lineup with the oil seal. This will also save you money. I am planning to buy my own shop press soon!
Click to expand...

Can that press also be used for removal of the retainers and the ABS ring?
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Can that press also be used for removal of the retainers and the ABS ring?
Click to expand...

Yes. There was a good write-up I saw explaining how to use the press to remove the old parts. I think it was on Yota Tech. You need a bearing puller tool. Sorry, don't have the part number on hand. If you do enough searching you'll find the write-up and recommended tool.

I wish I would have found the write-up before I got bent over at the dealer for this repair. Had no idea you could get a press for such an affordable price at Harbor Freight and that it could be used to take the parts off and as well press them on.
 
Thanks. I bookmarked that page. I am just getting things in order. I am not ready to drop money on parts or tools at the moment, but maybe (hopefull) soon.

Thanks Tim. I'll search to find that write-up before I start into it.

If the ABS rings are pressed off, they can be reused, right?? I mean, are they usually fine after removal or are they usually ruined?
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Thanks. I bookmarked that page. I am just getting things in order. I am not ready to drop money on parts or tools at the moment, but maybe (hopefull) soon.

Thanks Tim. I'll search to find that write-up before I start into it.

If the ABS rings are pressed off, they can be reused, right?? I mean, are they usually fine after removal or are they usually ruined?
Click to expand...

Usually fine unless the machinist is incompetent and cuts them off.

Also OP, take off your differential breather and either clean it or replace it. A clogged breather can cause seals to blow due to pressure.
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Thanks. I bookmarked that page. I am just getting things in order. I am not ready to drop money on parts or tools at the moment, but maybe (hopefull) soon.

Thanks Tim. I'll search to find that write-up before I start into it.

If the ABS rings are pressed off, they can be reused, right?? I mean, are they usually fine after removal or are they usually ruined?
Click to expand...

Here's one of the tools I was talking about:
http://www.durasolid.com/differential-tools/bearing-puller-tools/axle-bearing-puller-toyota

If you are a welder or know someone who is, like [MENTION=99565]kolelt[/MENTION] posted, you can make your own.

Here's a link to how somebody made one:
Homemade Toyota Wheel Bearing Puller | 2-Minute Tech on PowerNationTV

You'll also need a Bearing Splitter/Puller if you want to pull off the retainer and ABS gears to reuse them. Don't know what size bearing splitter but I'm sure someone on here knows.

Here's a link to pics of how somebody used their press to do it: Take a look at posts #215, #216, and #218. [MENTION=115592]bugman-74[/MENTION] does a great job describing how he did it.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...eplacement-thread-3rd-gen-15.html#post2177869
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone! Lots of links to read through. I'm going to pull the drum off tomorrow and check things out. The breather is a good possibility as I've been wheeling this truck through all kinds of mud, dust, dirt and water crossings. I'm going to drain and refill the diff with fresh fluid as well. I guess it's time to extend that breather!

Ok so I just checked the breather. There was so much stuff caked onto it that I actually needed to use pliars to break it free. I'll know more when I tear it apart tomorrow but hopefully that's my only problem!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 259 (members: 1, guests: 258)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,071
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top