rear brake caliper stripped threads

IK13

Member
Stripped the threads on the upper ear (don't ask). Sliding pin's threads seem ok.
Anyone else done that and being able to successfully repair it? Heli-coil?
 
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Heli-Coils seem to usually work best in a hole with a bottom but can work on a through hole application but the tang would have to be broken off the bottom of the coil or you can get "Tangless" Heli-Coils and use a tread locking compound in the exterior treads on the Heli -Coil and allowed to dry before assembly, if it were me I would most likely drill and tap it to the next bolt size up if possible.
 
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Heli-Coils seem to usually work best in a hole with a bottom but can work on a through hole application but the tang would have to be broken off the bottom of the coil or you can get "Tangless" Heli-Coils and use a tread locking compound in the exterior treads on the Heli -Coil and allowed to dry before assembly, if it were me I would most likely drill and tap it to the next bolt size up if possible.
If you can get access to the hole where the stripped threads are, easily with a drill, then a heli-coil repair is probably your best bet. If installed properly, it should work fine. I wouldn't, IMHO, recommend going with just drilling and tapping it for a larger bolt, since you may also have to increase the size of the bolt hole in the caliper to accommodate the larger bolt. Heli-coil thread inserts are usually stronger than the original threads it replaces. I have used them for years, on all types of repairs, and have never had one fail on me.
 
Since you mentioned sliding pins I'm assuming you stripped the caliper and not the caliper bracket, although my suggestion would work on either part.

If you haven't stripped all the threads,start the tap on the opposite side where the threads are still ok. This will guarantee your repair is totally straight, if its crooked the caliper may bind when applying the brakes. Do only a couple turns are a time then back the tap out to clean any shavings off and use some kind of lube.
 
2015 4runner stripped (rear) caliper pin

Hi!

I just stripped a caliper pin thread (cheap torque wrench or i'm an idiot or both, unclear how)

I checked the pin, the thread looks bad ... the knuckle might be as well, it looks toast but part of me is hoping that's the threads from the pin...

Having read this i'm wondering:

  • can i drive it (far) with a bad pin? for how long? it's a little more than finger tight right now
  • what size helicoil would i use? how do these work? i'm not familiar with these
  • what size thread is it? 17mm? can i get a thread tool and chase the knuckle from the other size gentle in the hopes i can just replace the pins?

Thanks in advance!
 
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^^
Did you try to repair the threads with a thread chaser? Is this the caliper bracket or the slide pin?
 
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Heli coil, try to use a good kit that includes everything, coils, drill, thread cutter or if you can get a cheap price for a used caliper from scrap yard it may save you time.

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
 
^^
Did you try to repair the threads with a thread chaser? Is this the caliper bracket or the slide pin?

I wasn't clear it's the caliper knuckle that 'floats' on the slide pins, the chunk of steel that contains the piston. I don't actually know what it's called, I could be using the wrong name.

The pin is pretty bad, the thread in the knuckle looks bad too but I haven't got a tap to clean it out (I ordered one, it should be here tomorrow) so can't be certain.

I managed to get a replacement pin from O'Reilly (part# 14044) but haven't installed it yet because I want to clean the threads first. I would prefer to order Toyota parts but couldn't find anywhere online that had these with prompt shipping (any hints?)

FWIW if this is useful to someone else, I found out it's a head is 17mm and M14 x 1.25mm thread (the same as spark plugs apparently.)

I'm going to ask the dealer how much it would be to replace this - given they wanted $440 to do the rear brakes (which is why I was doing this myself in the first place) I doubt they will have anything I want to hear.

What kills me is that it really is about 5 mins to get the wheel off (less probably) and under 10 mins to change the pads, grease and all ... the dealers are really a rip off.
 

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Heli coil, try to use a good kit that includes everything, coils, drill, thread cutter or if you can get a cheap price for a used caliper from scrap yard it may save you time.

Do you know what kit that would specifically? I searched on Amazon and only found a kit for spark plugs which looks like it has some cutton tool as part of it.

When I searched YouTube it seemed like what I really want is a kit that required me to drill things out specifically with a twist drill.

As for replacing the caliper ... there is a piston in it with a brake line, that feels like it might complicate things? Would I need to replace that as well then bleed the brakes?
 
I just swapped out my calipers a couple weeks ago and they are currently sitting in my garage. The caliper was sticky, but the pins themselves are in good shape. Willing to send any of you parts that you need.
 
If it's the caliper that's jacked up, just get a new caliper. It's an easy swap and not very expensive. Well worth the money vs fixing the old one if I'm understanding your problem right.
 
Usually a single pack of double-mint gum chewed pretty well works. Just put it in the stripped hole and drive the bolt in. But since this is the break caliper, I would chew up a foot of Hubba Bubba tape and a piece of warhead gum for good measure, :painkiller:

In reality, I would 1) just replace the caliper or 2) take it to a machine shop to fix.
 
Do you know what kit that would specifically? I searched on Amazon and only found a kit for spark plugs which looks like it has some cutton tool as part of it.

When I searched YouTube it seemed like what I really want is a kit that required me to drill things out specifically with a twist drill.

As for replacing the caliper ... there is a piston in it with a brake line, that feels like it might complicate things? Would I need to replace that as well then bleed the brakes?
looks to me you can still drive it with the stripped bolt only if you need to go somewhere to get parts. those pins are only used to guide the caliper in and out when you brake. it does not need to be too tight to work.

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