Rear brake hose torque spec?

[Spktyr]

I'm in the middle of doing the Tundra Brake Upgrade and as part of that I'm replacing the degraded original brake hoses with new StopTech braided stainless steel. I've got the front hoses in and torqued down, but I've not been able to find a torque spec for the rear hose. I checked the commonly-available 2002 PDF but it doesn't seem to list a torque spec and the 2002 has a different rear brake system anyway.

Does anyone happen to have the torque specs for the single rear brake hose on my 2000? I'm kind of hung up on this job until I can figure out how much torque to apply to it. Thanks.

 

[Twisted Sid]

All the way until its tight.
If it leaks, it's not tight enough. If it doesnt leak, it's good.

 

[weekendclimber]

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Page BR-23 of that FSM states the following:

9. REMOVE WHEEL CYLINDER
(a) Using SST, disconnect the brake line. Use a container to catch the brake fluid.
Torque: 15 N·m (155 kgf·cm, 11 ft·lbf)
SST 09023-00100

That sounds about right. I assume the SST is a crows foot wrench of some type.

 

[Spktyr]

Yes, but which of those is for the fitting that goes into the tee bolted to the axle? That’s what I can’t figure out.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Yes, but which of those is for the fitting that goes into the tee bolted to the axle? That’s what I can’t figure out.

I'd use 11 ft-lbs, that seems to be the general "brake line to fitting" torque - I'd guess the tube-to-wheel cylinder torque will be the same as tube-to-T-fitting.

I also think that Twisted Sid is right, snug it and check that it doesn't leak. I never recall torquing a brake line nut, and never saw a leak if it's tightened snug.

 

[weekendclimber]

I'd use 11 ft-lbs, that seems to be the general "brake line to fitting" torque - I'd guess the tube-to-wheel cylinder torque will be the same as tube-to-T-fitting.

I also think that Twisted Sid is right, snug it and check that it doesn't leak. I never recall torquing a brake line nut, and never saw a leak if it's tightened snug.

Yes, 11 ft-lbs is what the specs says for all brake line unions :thumb:

 

[Spktyr]

I'd use 11 ft-lbs, that seems to be the general "brake line to fitting" torque - I'd guess the tube-to-wheel cylinder torque will be the same as tube-to-T-fitting.

I also think that Twisted Sid is right, snug it and check that it doesn't leak. I never recall torquing a brake line nut, and never saw a leak if it's tightened snug.

I've actually encountered ones where I snugged them up (and no, I didn't crank down on them like a demented Neanderthal mouthbreather, just a reasonable amount of torque), the flare cracked and they leaked anyway. Possibly because of too much torque, possibly because of defects, but I once had it happen on a succession of cars and since have been very interested in torque numbers for brake plumbing when they were offered.

 

[nobb]

You can get a feel for how tight they should be just by hand. When in doubt, it's better to be on the loose side than overtightening them too much and breaking the flare connection. Always check for leaks after and you'll be good. I didn't think anyone actually follows these torque specs because I don't see how you would get a torque wrench on there.

 

[Mark_BC]

You can get a feel for how tight they should be just by hand. When in doubt, it's better to be on the loose side than overtightening them too much and breaking the flare connection. Always check for leaks after and you'll be good. I didn't think anyone actually follows these torque specs because I don't see how you would get a torque wrench on there.

I picked up a set of those crows feet flare heads from HF that you slip over the tube, then put a ratchet on the head.