Rear Brakes Need Attention. Tips/Advice?

[NJshadow93]

Took my truck to the dealer to have my tires rotated and wheels balanced, and while I was there I asked them to adjust my parking brake since it doesn't hold the truck anymore. Long story short, they did not adjust the parking brake since they told me my rear brakes were worn and recommended I replace the pads and rotors (or resurface them).

I do not think that worn brake pads and rotors should have anything to do with adjusting the parking brake, but I did not feel like arguing with the service writer. Rear brakes right now are ORIGINAL at 119k miles.

Right now, my plan is to replace just the pads and and install some new rotors. Other's recommend I change the calipers too, but I am on the fence about that. As far as I know, rear brake calipers do not seize as often as the front ones with the poor design. I have only read about 2 cases of seized rear calipers.

Here's where I could use some advice. Should I replace the rear calipers also? That would require bleeding the brakes and the brake fluid is already brand new (just had the fronts done a couple months ago). I also would not like to spend an extra $150-$200 if I don't have to. This is assuming the rear calipers are not seized. I guess I will find out for sure once I get in there, but any ways I can test for that before I start working on it? Will testing if the wheel will spin freely work for the rear as it does for the front?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mole177]

you can adjust the parking brake by taking the wheel off and pop open the rubber cap.

at the 6o clock position, a spikey wheel can be turned to tighten or loosen the parking brake

i forgot which way to move the wheel.

Do not get this mixed up with the rear brake pad holding the rotor. the brake shoes are on the inside of the rotor. (if you didn't know)

 

[chitown40]

You don't need to replace the calipers unless the pistons don't move freely and smoothly and appear severely rusted and pitted. With that said, you live in the rust belt so there is a chance you may have to once you pull everything apart.

I always buy all the parts I might possibly need BEFORE I start the job, and return what I don'[t need after the job. If you have two new calipers sitting in your garage when you do the brakes, chances are you won't need them. If you don't buy the calipers, then you will most certainly need them. :wink2: Murphy's law.

As far as bleeding the brakes.... brake fluid is cheap, and if you replace the rear calipers, you will only have to bleed the rear lines unless you somehow introduce excess amounts of air into the system or cycle the brake pedal with the system open. If you just disconnect and re-connect, your bleeding will be at a minimum.

Good luck. Rust belt sucks...

 

[WXman]

My 4R had all four calipers replaced due to seizing at around 70K miles or so. Actually, according to the service report the rears were replaced and the fronts were rebuilt with all new parts, or vise versa. Can't remember. I've got it now at 108K and it seems to be in good shape.

When I adjusted my parking brake, I found it was very difficult to adjust with the star wheel so I pulled the rear drums off and adjusted and slid them back on. Another plus to that is it gives you a chance to inspect your brake shoes and hardware, and clean everything up with brake cleaner.

 

[M1911]

I've replaced seized rear calipers twice, so the rears can also sieze.

 

[Bob J]

I've replaced seized rear calipers twice, so the rears can also sieze.

Mine have been replaced twice as well..... Currently I at just over 100k miles....