Rear Brakes

nc-grayson

nc-grayson

Member
I'm trying to put together a shopping list for replacement of some rear brake components. I did the 231mm TBU a few months back, now need to give the rears some love. Lately, my bell cranks have been freezing, I've noticed my drivers rear getting waayyyy hotter than the passenger, and the truck feels sluggish. I just want to replace parts cause they're old, it's time, and my 3rd gen needs some love. Never done rear brakes but I'm confident in the process based on a few diys here and my fsm, but I'm stumped on the parts I should order. It seems Camelback took down all their parts diagrams which help me as a visual guy.

0449535230 Is the p/n for the rear shoes. I assume that's all 4 shoes? Or just one side?
Do I need to/should I because I can get new backing plates for the rears?
Should I replace the drums or resurface them depending on what they look like when I get in there?
Should I get a new/replacement hardware kit? Is there anything OEM out there like this? Wearever Drum Brake Hardware Combi-Kit 17183: Advance Auto Parts
What about new bell crank assemblies? OEM?Buy Dorman - OE Solutions Parking Brake Bell Crank 924-753 at Advance Auto Parts

Thanks in advance or all your help and direction......just want to sure up a parts list before I dive in. Thanks.

-Grayson
 
Register to hide this ad
I only used the rear shoes, OEM of course. Other than that I didn't need anything or any resurfacing. My truck is completely rust free though so depending on how yours is bell cranks and such may need some cleaning up/replacing.
 
The rear hardware kits are super cheap, replacement springs, spring retainers, pins, ect and pretty much the same at all local autoparts stores. Its not always necessary, but its a lot of parts really cheap so why not have it on hand. If you don't use it, take it back.

I had to replace shoes, and drums last time due to the bonding on the shoes letting go and some metal on metal action which left a nice groove on one drum. I used non oem parts this time since shipping charges for drums was over $100 and I didn't have time to wait. You have to make a decision on whether to replace the drums, have them turned or just stick them back on after taking them off and looking at them. I would suggest having them turned at the very least since there is a lip that usually forms on the outer edge that makes the drums hard to get off.

If the wheel cylinders aren't leaking, just clean everything thing off and slap it back together. Adjust the brakes properly and call it a day. The one tip I can offer is to only do one side at a time. Then if you forget how it goes back together you can look at the other side.
 
Unner said:
I only used the rear shoes, OEM of course. Other than that I didn't need anything or any resurfacing. My truck is completely rust free though so depending on how yours is bell cranks and such may need some cleaning up/replacing.
Click to expand...

Dephcon said:
The rear hardware kits are super cheap, replacement springs, spring retainers, pins, ect and pretty much the same at all local autoparts stores. Its not always necessary, but its a lot of parts really cheap so why not have it on hand. If you don't use it, take it back.

I had to replace shoes, and drums last time due to the bonding on the shoes letting go and some metal on metal action which left a nice groove on one drum. I used non oem parts this time since shipping charges for drums was over $100 and I didn't have time to wait. You have to make a decision on whether to replace the drums, have them turned or just stick them back on after taking them off and looking at them. I would suggest having them turned at the very least since there is a lip that usually forms on the outer edge that makes the drums hard to get off.

If the wheel cylinders aren't leaking, just clean everything thing off and slap it back together. Adjust the brakes properly and call it a day. The one tip I can offer is to only do one side at a time. Then if you forget how it goes back together you can look at the other side.
Click to expand...

Thank you both for your input. I would prefer to use 100% OEM parts all around, but I'm ok settling with aftermarket for the smaller hardware/bell cranks....At the end of the day, if I can use all OEM for the every day braking parts, and aftermarket for the bits and giblets, I'll sleep ok at night.

I'm planning on diving right in and going to town in the upcoming weeks. 3rd gen isn't a DD, (yet), so I've got time to pull the drums and assess from there. Also, I have another 3rd gen right next door at the neighbors if I get stumped during the long, (intentionally.....I'm busy AF), process.

Haven't even started it yet, but for anyone reading....I can promise you that having the paper copies of the FSM on hand give you more courage than any other online tutorial or DIY. BEST money I've spent on my truck hands down, 1,000,000 fold.
 
The bellcranks free up pretty good with a bit of wire wheel and some paint. I just got the pins and cleaned and painted the rest
 
Very easy job. Don't turn your drums unless they're grooved or lipped. A piece of emory cloth works wonders. No need to rebuild the wheel cylinders unless they're leaking. The only thing I would replace are the brake shoe hold down springs, pins and cups.

Build it first on your bench or next to the wheel and "slide" it over the axle. Others said it already, only do one side at a time.

Here's a good photo of it pre-built - Rear Brakes
 
Last edited:
Rock_Rat said:
Very easy job. Don't turn your drums unless they're grooved or lipped. A piece of emory cloth works wonders. No need to rebuild the wheel cylinders unless they're leaking. The only thing I would replace are the brake shoe hold down springs, pins and cups.

Build it first on your bench or next to the wheel and "slide" it over the axle. Others said it already, only do one side at a time.

Here's a good photo of it pre-built - Rear Brakes
Click to expand...

I've never thought of building the set before installing.....:hiding:......man I feel dumb, what a great idea!!
 
MyHigh said:
I've never thought of building the set before installing.....:hiding:......man I feel dumb, what a great idea!!
Click to expand...

Neither have I. I just sit there with 14 different sets of pliers and 3 screwdrivers swearing and wishing I had 3 extra hands.
 
I had to replace shoes, and drums last time due to the bonding on the shoes letting go and some metal on metal action which left a nice groove on one drum.
11a.jpg
 
nc-grayson said:
I'm trying to put together a shopping list for replacement of some rear brake components. I did the 231mm TBU a few months back, now need to give the rears some love. Lately, my bell cranks have been freezing, I've noticed my drivers rear getting waayyyy hotter than the passenger, and the truck feels sluggish. I just want to replace parts cause they're old, it's time, and my 3rd gen needs some love. Never done rear brakes but I'm confident in the process based on a few diys here and my fsm, but I'm stumped on the parts I should order. It seems Camelback took down all their parts diagrams which help me as a visual guy.

0449535230 Is the p/n for the rear shoes. I assume that's all 4 shoes? Or just one side?
Do I need to/should I because I can get new backing plates for the rears?
Should I replace the drums or resurface them depending on what they look like when I get in there?
Should I get a new/replacement hardware kit? Is there anything OEM out there like this? Wearever Drum Brake Hardware Combi-Kit 17183: Advance Auto Parts
What about new bell crank assemblies? OEM?Buy Dorman - OE Solutions Parking Brake Bell Crank 924-753 at Advance Auto Parts

Thanks in advance or all your help and direction......just want to sure up a parts list before I dive in. Thanks.

-Grayson
Click to expand...

They're drum brakes, don't overthink it. This is not a place where you need to be concerned with using only OEM parts. Here's what I used about a month ago:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014B9PK0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Amazon.com: Wagner H17183 Drum Brake Hardware Kit, Rear: Automotive
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
I've used the Napa E-Brake bell cranks twice now. Good quality.
Click to expand...

They are okay, in my opinion, same deminsions just fit and finish is not there and my boot is torn within six months. But it's 1/4 the price of OEM so I shouldn't complain just save your OEM boots and all will be fine.
 
I also suggest you are okay with most any aftermarket parts in this case. Bell cranks are really easy to disassemble and clean up. I hosed mine with brake cleaner and then packed the boot with as much high temp grease as I could fit in to prevent water from freezing in them in the winter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 234 (members: 0, guests: 234)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top