Rear coil fall out?

[AssBurns]

Has anyone ever had an issue with coils falling out because of shocks being too long?
I have LC80 8 wraps that I'm going to install. I plan on going with 5125 10" travel shocks and outboard shock towers. With this setup my down travel would be the same as running tundra 5100's but I won't have to extend my bump stops since I'm raising the shock towers. I was just wondering if I can maybe go to 11" or 12" travel shocks without losing a coil at full droop. Which would add another 1"-2" of down travel. I could always add limit straps if it doesn't work but I would rather just get my shocks set up right the first time.
Any info or advice would be appreciated

 

[MStudt]

It's been known to happen, but it takes quite a bit. You can use some spring retainers if your concerned about it.

 

[AssBurns]

It's hard to find custom shock info on here. Seems like everyone pretty much goes with the standard tundra or Tacoma 5100's but I want more than that.
What's the longest shock you guys have ran or seen run on a 3rd gen with stock axle and control arms? I tried searching for long travel 4runners that are running longer rear suspension than just 5100's but it seems like it always is just front end stuff. Any links would be appreciated

 

[MandAtaco]

I think you'd have to run some pretty long shocks to get the LC80's to pop out. I had to compress my 861's just to get them in, and I had the axle dropped out as far as it would go.

 

[AssBurns]

Man I think you just sold me on running 12" Short Body 7100's. There goes all my money! If the are too long I can always run limit straps. Eventually I want to do a SAS so getting those 12" 7100's would work well for a full 4-link setup too unless I go with a coil over setup.

Now the question is what valving should I run?
180/75, 255/70, 275/78 or 360/80?
I don't know much about valving so I gotta do some good research now

 

[AssBurns]

A few more questions before I purchase these shocks. I there anyone running longer shocks like the tundra 5100's or LC shocks without extended bump stops and no issues with the over compression of the shocks? I did some measuring today with my 4runner up on jack stands and pulled the rear suspension to see what my limits are. From what I measured I seems like the Tundra 5100's wouldn't really have an issue with out extended bump stops. Maybe I measured wrong. Also could anyone with LC coils or similar measure from the lower shock mount to the bottom of the frame where the stock bump stop mounts at full droop? or some kind of measurements at full droop if you already have any measurements

 

[JayRolla]

A few more questions before I purchase these shocks. I there anyone running longer shocks like the tundra 5100's or LC shocks without extended bump stops and no issues with the over compression of the shocks? I did some measuring today with my 4runner up on jack stands and pulled the rear suspension to see what my limits are. From what I measured I seems like the Tundra 5100's wouldn't really have an issue with out extended bump stops. Maybe I measured wrong. Also could anyone with LC coils or similar measure from the lower shock mount to the bottom of the frame where the stock bump stop mounts at full droop? or some kind of measurements at full droop if you already have any measurements

With 7 wraps. Lc shocks and lowered stops I can flex out so far the driveshaft slams the gas tank. If you create a lot more travel it will get worse. I removed rear sway bar to test the extra travel and damn near sheared the bolts on the rear driveshaft.

Note Steve at SS who originally built the lc lift setups had tested out the lc shocks and billies. He has started you must lower the stops to not over compress and stop them from popping out.

8 wraps can pop out. They are hard to fit but once one side fully stuffed with extra up travel they loosen up sometimes. They can be retained with wire

Once you get this thing wheeling you will realize the limits of our suspension and gas tank location.

 

[AssBurns]

I noticed the gas tank run but I would have to have more down travel than what I plan on running. The way everything lined up with all the measuring. I should have enough room to clear the drive shaft and keep the coils in at full droop. At this pint in just trying to see how much more I will be gaining with this setup than running tundra 5100's. I plan on probably running limit straps so I don't over extend my shocks and ruin them. I coil always limit the droop with the straps if I run into any issues.
My biggest deciding factor now is witch valving to run. The 7100's are completely owner rebuildable but I don't want to have to do that right away if I can already get pretty close the first try.
255/70 or 180/75?
It is going to be mostly a DD and wheeling on the weekends. I try to do more rock crawling stuff but a lot of the time it's just fire roads and mild snow wheeling during the winter

 

[JayRolla]

I noticed the gas tank run but I would have to have more down travel than what I plan on running. The way everything lined up with all the measuring. I should have enough room to clear the drive shaft and keep the coils in at full droop. At this pint in just trying to see how much more I will be gaining with this setup than running tundra 5100's. I plan on probably running limit straps so I don't over extend my shocks and ruin them. I coil always limit the droop with the straps if I run into any issues.
My biggest deciding factor now is witch valving to run. The 7100's are completely owner rebuildable but I don't want to have to do that right away if I can already get pretty close the first try.
255/70 or 180/75?
It is going to be mostly a DD and wheeling on the weekends. I try to do more rock crawling stuff but a lot of the time it's just fire roads and mild snow wheeling during the winter

Shocks just stop when maxed out. Over compression is what blows them out.

I dont know anyone with a good flexing setup that clears the gas tank. During heavy flexing situations you will always hit as long as you have some good travel. GOOD LUCK!

 

[AssBurns]

That really limits the down travel forsure. The whole point of running this setup was to keep full up travel without damaging a shock and possibly getting more down travel. I should get about an inch more than the 5100's people are running but keep my stock bump stop heights and better dampening.
Thanks for all your quick responses JayRolla. It's good to hear someone else's opinions on this and to correct me when I'm wrong.
I pulled my shocks, sway bar, and coils yesterday and cycled the suspension all different ways and put ratchet straps at the lowest droop I could safely go (which is was quite a bit higher than the limits of the stock links and leaves enough room for the driveshaft to clear) and hit bump stops to see what clears and what doesn't. I wouldn't have much room for an aftermarket gas tank skid but I think I could come up with something to keep that corner strong and have it clear the driveshaft

 

[JayRolla]

That really limits the down travel forsure. The whole point of running this setup was to keep full up travel without damaging a shock and possibly getting more down travel. I should get about an inch more than the 5100's people are running but keep my stock bump stop heights and better dampening.
Thanks for all your quick responses JayRolla. It's good to hear someone else's opinions on this and to correct me when I'm wrong.
I pulled my shocks, sway bar, and coils yesterday and cycled the suspension all different ways and put ratchet straps at the lowest droop I could safely go (which is was quite a bit higher than the limits of the stock links and leaves enough room for the driveshaft to clear) and hit bump stops to see what clears and what doesn't. I wouldn't have much room for an aftermarket gas tank skid but I think I could come up with something to keep that corner strong and have it clear the driveshaft

Yeah, never said your wrong. Just giving you my experiences. I know peeps usually relocate the tank once it becomes an issue. Lowered bump stops in my situation saves my LC shocks from overcompression. Helps keep my 305s from rubbing wheel well (they love to hit the gas filler neck cover which I had to trim a bit) and gives a nice soft transition. Any more uptravel would not work with my tires. My soft bump stops also are a lot better than those solid as a rock rubber ones. Before the stops you could feel it slam into the stop, now its smooth sailing.

I have hammered my tank shield as far as I could to help clear. Also make sure to replace the rear zirk fitting on drive shaft with a small screw because it will sheer off when it hits the tank and you wont beable to grease the shaft without drilling it out.

 

[AssBurns]

Good Idea on the zirk fitting. I definitely need better bump stops but I don't want it to limit my travel. I want to find some good soft ones that keep the same travel. If I ever go to 35's I'll just raise the lower shock mounts and add a longer bump stop but for now I have pretty new 285's so I'll have those for a while.

 

[D Farms]

this is true, with our link setup, the driveshaft will eventually make contact with the gas tank. another issue ive found is the bump stops limit bump travel too much if you set them up for flex travel. I think if you moved them towards the drum they would work properly.

 

[hounddogman]

I'm not going to try to talk you out of doing something different, new or cool ( and 7100's are that. ) but I can say that my Trundra 5100's are not the limiting factor on my suspension . Tire size limits up travel and the drive line-gas tank skid limits down travel . Although I saw in your build tread you already clearanced ( is that a word ? ) your wheel wells so maybe you can gain some travel. Let us know ! And since everybody loves pics .

 

[AssBurns]

Thanks for the input! Did you have to add extended bump stops? I already "clearanced" my wheel wells. Wasn't hard at all. With a new bumper I will have probably another "1 of clearance in all directions in the rear. Maybe not quite 1" at the gas filler tube but I don't rub anything at the moment. That's why I don't want to lose my up travel so I can get some serious stuffage. If I ever run 35's I may need to extend the stops but I'm going to try not to have to do that. Eventually I'd like to relocate my gas tank in the spare tire location but that won't be very soon. If I end up hitting the tank I'll just shorten my limit straps till I don't hit anymore. With the 12" shocks I should have plenty of shock length to spare for later on down the line. That's another reason I'm doing this, so I don't need to buy shocks twice for the rear

 

[hounddogman]

Did you have to add extended bump stops?

I have't yet but I probable should . Just broke & lazy . I've had the 5100's about 2 years and have't blown them out yet but I've read my 891 springs will start to sag when over compressed . BTW The pics were taken with the sway bar links ( extended ) attached .

 

[turbo8]

My rear coils would fall out with the icon shocks.

I made some spring retainers out of some flat bar for the top of the spring. There is a threaded hole on top by the spring seat.

on the lower seat I used some hose clamps to hold them in place.