rear differential fluid change
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Nelsonmd
New member
It is as easy as it sounds, but only if you follow the proper procedure.
Take the filler plug off first
This is the plug on the back side of the housing, behind the parking brake cable. If you take the drain plug out first, you may find you can't get the filler plug off, and you cant fill it, and you are screwed.
take the filler plug off, then take the drain plug off, let the oil drain, replace the drain, then fill it with some gear oil. I think 75W-90 or thereabouts is good.
technically you are supposed to use new crush washers when you do this. You have to get them from a dealer. They are not very expensive, but you should probably be able to reuse the old ones.
Take the filler plug off first
This is the plug on the back side of the housing, behind the parking brake cable. If you take the drain plug out first, you may find you can't get the filler plug off, and you cant fill it, and you are screwed.
take the filler plug off, then take the drain plug off, let the oil drain, replace the drain, then fill it with some gear oil. I think 75W-90 or thereabouts is good.
technically you are supposed to use new crush washers when you do this. You have to get them from a dealer. They are not very expensive, but you should probably be able to reuse the old ones.
SCRunner12
New member
How many quarts would be needed to do the front and rear diffs? I have a 95, but I would assume they would be the same.
Nelsonmd
New member
Crush washers in this case are small rings or aluminum that get crushed in between the plug and housing to create a tight seal. They are considered non-reusable because to function properly they have to be deformed, and therefore won't work the same the second time you use them.
In reality you can reuse them once or twice, but you want to replace them when you can because they really do get damaged in use.
In reality you can reuse them once or twice, but you want to replace them when you can because they really do get damaged in use.
josh.bunch
New member
Instead of creating a new thread I drummed up an old one. I cannot find the information im looking for here or through google. Does anyone know what they different torque ratings on the bolts for the front & rear differentials is? Also transfer case bolt torque ratings?
I'm trying to do this today but if I dont get a good answer today Ill wait til tomorrow. Thanks.
I'm trying to do this today but if I dont get a good answer today Ill wait til tomorrow. Thanks.
nilson
New member
Tight enough... Seriously who puts a torque wrench on crap like this?
josh.bunch
New member
This guy...Rear Differential Oil Change - YouTube
Nelsonmd
New member
All the torques for every component on the vehicle are listed in the FSM. Check out the tutorial and documentation reference thread and read the FSM.
josh.bunch
New member
FSM- Factory Scheduled Maintenance?
Sorry if that's a dumb question.
Sorry if that's a dumb question.
TheeMikeB
New member
Nelsonmd
New member
Factory Service Manual
It's linked in the tutorial and documentation reference sticky thread. If you havn't visited that thread, then don't make another post until you do, because most everything you will ever need is there.
josh.bunch
New member
I've read it, but its been awhile so I guess I better do it again. Thanks for the reminder and help. I ended up finding it here too.
Synthetic Fluids Toyota 4Runner Information
You guys really need to quit putting torque wrenches on non torque critical components. The diff bolts and drain plugs and such do not need to be torqued. The torque readings for these things are not going to be accurate anyhow and you are asking for trouble. ANY contamination of thread will change your reading. Oil, lock tight, cleaners, etc… all change your reading
Common sense will treat you way better than the FSM and torque specs for 95% of your rig.
Common sense will treat you way better than the FSM and torque specs for 95% of your rig.
quicksilvr
New member
Nelsonmd
New member
True, but I find it useful to at least use the torque wrench the first time to kind of calibrate myself.
Yea, for real. As long as you dont strip it (hard to do) and it is not leaking, its tight enough. Thats like torquing your drain plug! WTF...
