Rear differential rust

[TN_Soljah808]

So I return from my deployment and drive my truck for the very first time and I’m very happy. However I decide to look under the vehicle for rust and I see a lot and I see some wet spots. So I crawl under and start scraping away rust with my hand and a towel. I thought the leak was coming from the drain plug however I removed a chunk of rust and it started flowing out and not stopping. I’m disappointed because this is going to take away money from MODS.

I’ve decided I need a new rear housing (based on research). However I plan on draining the fluids out tomorrow in order to stop it from leaking so I can apply JB Weld so I can drive the vehicle until a decent priced axle becomes available. Anyone think this is a bad temporary idea for my vehicle?

I circled the rusted through spot!

 

[4-Ripcord]

If you are going to replace the housing anyway, just do an e-locker housing swap! Mods and repairs at the same time!

 

[Nelsonmd]

So I return from my deployment and drive my truck for the very first time and I’m very happy. However I decide to look under the vehicle for rust and I see a lot and I see some wet spots. So I crawl under and start scraping away rust with my hand and a towel. I thought the leak was coming from the drain plug however I removed a chunk of rust and it started flowing out and not stopping. I’m disappointed because this is going to take away money from MODS.

I’ve decided I need a new rear housing (based on research). However I plan on draining the fluids out tomorrow in order to stop it from leaking so I can apply JB Weld so I can drive the vehicle until a decent priced axle becomes available. Anyone think this is a bad temporary idea for my vehicle?

I circled the rusted through spot!

View attachment 44185

View attachment 44186

View attachment 44187

Attachments don't work for me, try photobucket.

I used JB weld on mine and it held for the several months until I got a new housing (see the link in my sig). I am about to JB weld my pastor's housing too as he can't really afford to fix it, even if I did the work. You're doing exactly what I would do; I say go for it and lets see how good a fix the JB weld really is.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

If cost wasn't a factor then I would buy an e locker however I don't want to spend the extra money on wiring harness and whatever else I would need to install a differential with a locker.

Looks like JB Weld will be my friend until I can find a new axle housing. I guess it won't hurt to see if a welder can repair it also.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Pics work now, thanks. Boy does that look familiar; looks just like mine did.

If you have time, I would be sure to sand down the whole face of the diff cover area to make sure you don't have other leaks (don't sand too much though, just enough to get rid of the rust, and I wouldn't use a grinder as I think that would be too aggressive for how thin this likely is). If you leaked through there, then the rest of it is surely very thin, and I would bet that there are other pinholes you haven't found yet). When I replaced mine, I pulled the diff and found a bunch of little pores that had rusted through, but weren't leaking enough to notice; they would have soon though. I had only found 2 spots that were actively leaking and I patched both.

Also definitely paint the diff cover part of the housing after you have sanded it clean. And keep us up to date, I am very interested in how others do handling rust; it's an issue near and dear to my heart you might say.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

I slapped on some JB and stopped the leak. the leaking was bad enough that most of the Fluid was gone. I filled her back up with all most 3qts and found another pinhole leak however this leak isn't bad it forms drips but doesn't drip. That is an improvement over the patched leak that empty out on my drive way.

Called a Salvage yard in KY about 50 miles from my house and they have a

2001 Rear Axle Toyota 4Runner, 09 00,3.4,AOD,SR5,CK RATIO,133,000 miles

$475.00

I checked my ratio on my door according to the tag and I have a 4.10. The yard has to check the gear ratio. It won't be ready for pick up until Monday.

Any advise for me on picking it up or installing (additional parts I may need or should install before installing new axle assembly)?

 

[Nelsonmd]

I slapped on some JB and stopped the leak. the leaking was bad enough that most of the Fluid was gone. I filled her back up with all most 3qts and found another pinhole leak however this leak isn't bad it forms drips but doesn't drip. That is an improvement over the patched leak that empty out on my drive way.

Called a Salvage yard in KY about 50 miles from my house and they have a



$475.00

I checked my ratio on my door according to the tag and I have a 4.10. The yard has to check the gear ratio. It won't be ready for pick up until Monday.

Any advise for me on picking it up or installing (additional parts I may need or should install before installing new axle assembly)?

Yeah, My advice is to do a spin test on your diff to check the ratio, don't trust the door jamb sticker. Since you have a manual, you should have a 4.10, but it's worth checking before you drop $500 on it.

As far as install, there aren't many parts you will need. There are the axles and brake parts, but you can transfer those from your old axle. If you have to transfer the axles, you might want to pick up new axle seals. Other than that, if you can pick up the UCA's and LCA's for cheap, you could probably sell them here, or if your bushings are worn, use them yourself.

Be sure to check that the axle has ABS if you have it now.

 

[calimobber]

If your going to spend $500 i would really consider looking for a whole new axle with e locker. I believe price would be similar.

 

[cj80cruiser]

If your going to spend $500 i would really consider looking for a whole new axle with e locker. I believe price would be similar.

Doesn't elocker equal 4.30 gears?

It may not but something to watch out for.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

If your going to spend $500 i would really consider looking for a whole new axle with e locker. I believe price would be similar.

I would love an E Locker. However I don't have the technical knowledge on how to upgrade to an E Locker. I have looked at the write-ups but I don't trust myself. Also the new axle is only 50 miles away.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

Doesn't elocker equal 4.30 gears?

It may not but something to watch out for.

According to car-part.com

• 4x4, diff lock, ABS, 4.10 ratio
• 4x4, diff lock, ABS, 4.30 ratio
• 4x4, diff lock, ABS, 4.56 ratio

Correct me if I miss understood or if its an error.

 

[cj80cruiser]

I also thought the lowest gear you could get stock was 4.30. I haven't researched it or paid close attention to what came standard on specific packages. Just thought I read somewhere that elocker = 4.30

 

[SCRunner12]

The 4.10 lockers typically came with the 5 speed V6's, the 4.30 lockers typically came with the auto V6's and the 4.56 lockers came with the 5 speed and I think auto 4 cyl 4runners. You could special order any of the ratios, but that doesn't happen very often.

 

[Nelsonmd]

The 4.10 lockers typically came with the 5 speed V6's, the 4.30 lockers typically came with the auto V6's and the 4.56 lockers came with the 5 speed and I think auto 4 cyl 4runners. You could special order any of the ratios, but that doesn't happen very often.

I think this is correct, but the bottom line is don't trust any of it. Just do the spin test to check your diff. It's is stupid not to check.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

Update. I didn't end up buying a replacement yet (busy with work). I called around and found a complete 4.10 w/locker(so i thought). The yard confirmed it than they called when I was on my way and told me it's a 4.30. I was pissed I was 20 miles into my 3 hour drive. I asked if the front axle was available and he said $850 for Both! He wanted $600 just for the rear and $250 for the front. Now I'm mad because I don't want to spend an extra $250 and then buy all the side accessories. This axle is pissing me off it's the only thing stopping me from buying my lift. Idk what to do because I found a 4.10 no locker for $350 only 70 miles away.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Update. I didn't end up buying a replacement yet (busy with work). I called around and found a complete 4.10 w/locker(so i thought). The yard confirmed it than they called when I was on my way and told me it's a 4.30. I was pissed I was 20 miles into my 3 hour drive. I asked if the front axle was available and he said $850 for Both! He wanted $600 just for the rear and $250 for the front. Now I'm mad because I don't want to spend an extra $250 and then buy all the side accessories. This axle is pissing me off it's the only thing stopping me from buying my lift. Idk what to do because I found a 4.10 no locker for $350 only 70 miles away.

Yup, that frustration is what I experienced when I first bought mine. If you got 4.3's, then it would be easier to find as there are more locked 4runners with 4.3's than with 4.1's, but you'd have to replace both front and rear

 

[empty403]

So I return from my deployment and drive my truck for the very first time and I’m very happy. However I decide to look under the vehicle for rust and I see a lot and I see some wet spots. So I crawl under and start scraping away rust with my hand and a towel. I thought the leak was coming from the drain plug however I removed a chunk of rust and it started flowing out and not stopping. I’m disappointed because this is going to take away money from MODS.

I’ve decided I need a new rear housing (based on research). However I plan on draining the fluids out tomorrow in order to stop it from leaking so I can apply JB Weld so I can drive the vehicle until a decent priced axle becomes available. Anyone think this is a bad temporary idea for my vehicle?

I circled the rusted through spot!

To save some money and as a temporary fix you can have a place weld the hole closed.

 

[MTDewX8]

I feel your pain, I had the same thing 4 days after I bought mine.

but i got lucky adn found a complete axle for $350. already had the locker and luckily found a locker with less miles.

best of luck and thanks for your service

 

[TN_Soljah808]

So... I ended up buying the 4.30. Only because I called around again looking for a cheaper 4.10 without locker and the cheapest one $475 (plus core). I called the guy back with the 4.30 who was mistaken and he offered $600 and free front Diff as long as I return mine. So I ended up paying $600 (+ Tax) for the rear and $250 which I get back upon my return of mine.

So I'm waiting to go to the shop so I can use the lift to get the rear out of the truck. I decide to clean the front at the house because it's not as heavy. Upon cleaning it. I find a dent! or what ever you want to call it look at the pictures. It's where the Drive shafts or axles (don't know proper names) go into. Now I'm worried they won't seal properly.

What do you think? I think I might have to end up returning the front and be stuck with a rear 4.30 without a front. and really have to spend more money now.

I'm not sure if it works but can I remove the gears from the bent housing and put into current 4.10 front housing? or does that require a special shop?

<a href="http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/?action=view&current=IMG_2888.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/IMG_2888.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><a href="http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/?action=view&current=IMG_2886.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/IMG_2886.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><a href="http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/?action=view&current=IMG_2885.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/IMG_2885.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><a href="http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/?action=view&current=IMG_2882.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd120/Armystuff808/Runner/IMG_2882.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[NVAGVUP]

Rear Diff Rust Repair Southern Maine

I've owned this '02 4Runner Sport Edition in Maine since new. It is well cared for, by the book and beyond, with no body rust and runs great at 186,000 miles. Even with undercarraige washing at every snow storm and a complete under body power wash and re-rust proofing in 2011, the rear diff rusted out, was flaking metal and leaking severely.

All the Toyota dealers solutions were to spend $2500+ for a new rear axle housing with the same junk metal cover. The T4R site put me onto Barnes 4WD LLC and their 1/4 inch thick steel replacement differential covers. I found a welder who was confident he could do the work. He welded the cover and although it was a tight fit he said it was a perfect fit and went in smoothly, just clearing the sport edition rear traction bar and emergency brake cable. Some minor adjustment for clips on the original stock diff, and the work was done in a few hours and saved $2000. Pics attached. A little more welding to a few spots on the frame , a new power wash and a a rust inhibitor undercoat and another few years for the 4 Runner----thanks to Barnes 4WD LLC ! If no Barnes, then no more 4Runner.

The Diff Cover price was reasonable. It shipped quickly. The quality was as advertised. In Southern Maine talk to Zack @ [207]-615-6934

Thanks Barnes for solving Toyotas' problem for them. By the way-TMC would not acknowledge the rusting out diff covers were a problem rising to the level of a recall.