Rear disk brakes on an 88
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off-roadtoyboy
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s2kpuddydad
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Wow great job very cool...what calipers/rotors did you use? Do you have a list of parts needed?:hatsoff:
off-roadtoyboy
New member
Ya sure,
Calipers: came from an 82 Cadillac Eldorado (rebuilt myself) (These calipers come in different years and models. If you run these ones you will need to run the e-brake as well, it acts like an adjuster to keep the piston close to the rotors. You can opt to run a set of front Gmc/Chevy calipers and they will bolt up to the brackets that bought as well.)
Caliper brackets and rotors: came from this site Sky's Off-road Design - Home ( you can buy them separate if you wish, rotors are from a 92ish Gmc/Chevy suburban 4x4 2500. you have to have the center hole opened up to about 4.250")
E-brake cable: came from this site Brake Cable Kits: Gennie Shifter (use the UN2 kit)
Proportioning valve: Wilwood
Master Cylinder: 92 4runner 3.0 4x4 (1" bore) I have read that their is an fj master cylinder that is the same but also has a residual valve built in. go to http://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/master-cylinder/big-bore-fj80-brake-master-cylinder for that one.
Residual valve: 10psi (red) wilwood (baste on were you put it will depend on what you need, mine is really close to the rear end (in the pic it's BLUE) so I need a bigger one. I was having to pump the brake petal twice to get a hard pedal that is how i figured I need a bigger one.)
Misc: any hoses, fittings, and hard lines that you will need to make it work with your set up or design.
For the "T" fitting up in the front when you eliminate the LSPV (above the rear axle) I got the same bracket from a 2nd gen and cut off the one 90 fitting, got mine and cut off the "T" fitting and then welded the other 90 on my bracket. The other way is to put a plug in it, in ether case you have to do something because the line that goes from the "T" will be eliminated.
IF you wish to run the E-brake you will want to run a lighter return spring, this some thing that you will have to play with all calipers are diff. and so is everyone's design.
It doesn't show it in the pictures but I did rerun the ss brake lines over top off the spring pack for obvious reasons.
If you are planning on doing this, it was not something that I through together in a madder of a week. I looked at just about everything that anyone had posted on the internet to figure out what I wanted and didn't plus I had to buy the parts over time (not silver spoon fed). If you have more questions about what I did ask away.:ak472:
This site gave me some ideas: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35037
Calipers: came from an 82 Cadillac Eldorado (rebuilt myself) (These calipers come in different years and models. If you run these ones you will need to run the e-brake as well, it acts like an adjuster to keep the piston close to the rotors. You can opt to run a set of front Gmc/Chevy calipers and they will bolt up to the brackets that bought as well.)
Caliper brackets and rotors: came from this site Sky's Off-road Design - Home ( you can buy them separate if you wish, rotors are from a 92ish Gmc/Chevy suburban 4x4 2500. you have to have the center hole opened up to about 4.250")
E-brake cable: came from this site Brake Cable Kits: Gennie Shifter (use the UN2 kit)
Proportioning valve: Wilwood
Master Cylinder: 92 4runner 3.0 4x4 (1" bore) I have read that their is an fj master cylinder that is the same but also has a residual valve built in. go to http://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/master-cylinder/big-bore-fj80-brake-master-cylinder for that one.
Residual valve: 10psi (red) wilwood (baste on were you put it will depend on what you need, mine is really close to the rear end (in the pic it's BLUE) so I need a bigger one. I was having to pump the brake petal twice to get a hard pedal that is how i figured I need a bigger one.)
Misc: any hoses, fittings, and hard lines that you will need to make it work with your set up or design.
For the "T" fitting up in the front when you eliminate the LSPV (above the rear axle) I got the same bracket from a 2nd gen and cut off the one 90 fitting, got mine and cut off the "T" fitting and then welded the other 90 on my bracket. The other way is to put a plug in it, in ether case you have to do something because the line that goes from the "T" will be eliminated.
IF you wish to run the E-brake you will want to run a lighter return spring, this some thing that you will have to play with all calipers are diff. and so is everyone's design.
It doesn't show it in the pictures but I did rerun the ss brake lines over top off the spring pack for obvious reasons.
If you are planning on doing this, it was not something that I through together in a madder of a week. I looked at just about everything that anyone had posted on the internet to figure out what I wanted and didn't plus I had to buy the parts over time (not silver spoon fed). If you have more questions about what I did ask away.:ak472:
This site gave me some ideas: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35037
Last edited:
cometobanks
New member
Nice!
s2kpuddydad
New member
All very good info thank you:nicethread:
off-roadtoyboy
New member
No prob.
off-roadtoyboy
New member
neither, it is my own kit. read the post were I said that got the all the stuff from.
