Rear e-locker stuck engaged

[MSRP.]

Any tips that I can try before driving a half hour back home to a garage and tools and try opening it up as per this link?
https://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/42460-e-locker-fix.html#/topics/42460?page=2

Silly timing aside, I actually had a 10 mins to spare in a wide open Walmart parking lot and was doing a routine "use it or lose it" exercise of the rear locker and 4-lo on a 1999 v6.

Unluckily, it did not disengage.
Tried the 4-lo figure 8's, reverse a bit
Nothing

Finally drove 5 mins away in 2-HI and found dirt and gravel, nothing. Tried tapping the actuator, nothing.

Son of a...




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[Mark_BC]

I freaked out when mine did this and it turned out to be a bad connection in the electrical connector, I just was bending it and working the wires and it started working again. Probably some corrosion from road salt.

 

[habanero]

If you end up removing the e-locker be extremely careful about where you pry- the backing is very easy to break, make sure to only pry at the outer edges. Chances are good it will be stuck on at least one of the studs.

The TTORA link is right about the motor housing- leave it alone if possible...there are two tiny balls (on some of them, there is more than one style) on either end of the worm drive and two tiny springs behind the brushes. Toothpicks work great for holding the brushes/springs in place until the motor is in place. If it's working it's best to leave that part alone. If you do have to crack it open make marks to ensure the housing goes on the same way it came off.

 

[MSRP.]

Gonna have to drive it back to the garage 30 minutes away, might have time to get into it by Monday.

Is the risk high to drive it in 2-HI with rear diff locker engaged for a day or two?

Any leads on finding the associated FSM's linked in the TTORA threads?

Go to this link (page 11) for aligning the gear on the accuator:
deserted1.com*-&nbspThis website is for sale!*-&nbsp Resources and Information.

https://ttora.com/wiki/index.php/Actuator_Rebuild

 

[Mark_BC]

Nah I drove mine around for weeks. Just be careful at speed or you could roll on a curve.

 

[Scramble]

Take the actuator off. It's only 2 bolts & a nut. Then use a long flat head screw driver to push the fork to the right unlocking the diff. Put the actuator back on. Super simple. Do a google search for pics if need be.

 

[MSRP.]

Take the actuator off. It's only 2 bolts & a nut. Then use a long flat head screw driver to push the fork to the right unlocking the diff. Put the actuator back on. Super simple. Do a google search for pics if need be.

That's what I thought, until I came to this part in the TTORA post regarding 3v batteries and manually getting things to line up. If it's simple on/off, perfect.

Reassemble using the directions on the link below.

Go to this link (page 11) for aligning the gear on the accuator:
deserted1.com*-&nbspThis website is for sale!*-&nbsp Resources and Information.

Here is a post I got from Dick Foster explaining the alignment:

"In the face of the pinion drive gear you will see two slots.
With the actuator vertical as if installed the slots will line up off of the vertical just a tad.
Tape a couple of flashlight battery cells together so you have a source of 3V.
There are two leads in the actuator connector that actually drive the motor. Pins 3 & 5. The wire colors are green/red and green.
Using some wire, connect the battey to the two motor drive pins, just touch one pin so as to rotate the pinion gear the shortest path to where the two slots line up to vertical. If you over drive it, just reverse polarity and drive it back until you get the slots to line up vertical.
When you have the slots lines up vertical, try to reinstall the actuator without moving the rack gear. You may have to fiddle with the pinon gear position just a bit, somethimes it's a little off vertical but not much. Don't force the actuator on or you'll mess up the rack gear."

Torque everything to stock specs. Verify the connectors are FULLY snapped down.

For those that are "curious", DO NOT take the top cover (see below pic) off. In there is the drive gear, rotor, brushes, and little tiny springs that are a PITA to get back together without small tools. Thank god I have the right tools.

 

[MSRP.]

Did not end up needing to remove anything.
Jacked the rear up and with the rear diff button in the "off" and in 4-LO (car turned off), the rear locker "unclicked" audibly, and was free spinning almost immediately.

Pulled the cover and plugs to clean it a bit, but luckily, it locked/unlocked super easy a few times in the air. Will test it a bit more on a loose surface down the road when I'm not about to drive down the coast.