Rear ended by Ford them hit a Honda.

[BigMike603]

So on my way home from work today a lady in a 2000 Honda civic desided to stop abruptly. As we all know, the 4 Runner likes to nose dive and come to a scretching halt, which it did in this case, and I did not hit the poor little Honda. Well the 2017 Ford F 250 in back of me did not come to a halt and hit me at about 30mph. Which then launched me into the poor little Honda. The Honda did not take it well and it defintly going to need a new trunk and bumper. The front of the 4 runner took it rather well and may need a new bumper and maybe new bumper mounts. The back of the 4 runner is better then I thought it would be, but the hitch took it hard. The hitch that is on there now used to stick out from the rear bumper about 5 inches, and is now pretty much even with the bumper. The rear cross member on the frame is pretty bent and pushing into the spare. I attached some picture for your enjoyment.

What do you all think? Costly? Should I trade it in? Use the money for metal bumpers?

 

[SumDumGuy]

So on my way home from work today a lady in a 2000 Honda civic desided to stop abruptly. As we all know, the 4 Runner likes to nose dive and come to a scretching halt, which it did in this case, and I did not hit the poor little Honda. Well the 2017 Ford F 250 in back of me did not come to a halt and hit me at about 30mph. Which then launched me into the poor little Honda. The Honda did not take it well and it defintly going to need a new trunk and bumper. The front of the 4 runner took it rather well and may need a new bumper and maybe new bumper mounts. The back of the 4 runner is better then I thought it would be, but the hitch took it hard. The hitch that is on there now used to stick out from the rear bumper about 5 inches, and is now pretty much even with the bumper. The rear cross member on the frame is pretty bent and pushing into the spare. I attached some picture for your enjoyment.

What do you all think? Costly? Should I trade it in? Use the money for metal bumpers?

I'd get a raptor. :jk:

Check for radiator or frame damage in the back. If everything is cool I'd keep it.

 

[(none)]

you seem a bit optimistic. That's probably around $10-15k in damage...

 

[WRCREX]

An F250!? This could've been way, way worse. Glad to hear you are okay and good luck with your repairs or replacement

 

[honda250xtitan]

this is why you DONT leave the hitch in the receiver. just asking for more expensive repairs. would rather you bend your frame or have to replace the plastic bumper???? lol good luck.




partout????

 

[Septimius]

year mileage and trim on the truck? as another member said, you're looking easily north of 15 grand in damage, depending on the specifics on the truck your ins co may look to total it

 

[1jzgte]

id rather it be totaled than salvaged

 

[Septimius]

id rather it be totaled than salvaged

those two mean the same thing...

 

[honda250xtitan]

those two mean the same thing...

he'd rather they just get rid of it and give him the cash instead of fixing it.

 

[Septimius]

he'd rather they just get rid of it and give him the cash instead of fixing it.

ohhh sorry, i was thinking in insurance terminology. good point.

 

[BigMike603]

It is a 2016 SR5 with just over 20k miles. Looking at it further this morning the entire rear cross member will need to be replaced and looks like the ends of the frame are a little tweaked. My co worker seems to think they might total it. Which sucks as i just installed the suspension in April. :sobbing:

 

[SlickTRD]

It is a 2016 SR5 with just over 20k miles. Looking at it further this morning the entire rear cross member will need to be replaced and looks like the ends of the frame are a little tweaked. My co worker seems to think they might total it. Which sucks as i just installed the suspension in April. :sobbing:

I've worked briefly in an auto body shop and I doubt this will be totaled. The damages are not really on the extensive side. A low estimate value of your car is 30 grand and it will not take 21 grand (70% value) to fix. If it exceeds 70% of the value to fix the vehicle then the insurance company will total it.

 

[Septimius]

It is a 2016 SR5 with just over 20k miles. Looking at it further this morning the entire rear cross member will need to be replaced and looks like the ends of the frame are a little tweaked. My co worker seems to think they might total it. Which sucks as i just installed the suspension in April. :sobbing:

eh, you should be ok-ish i would think, the value on it is pretty high, total loss threshold is somewhere between 65 and 85% of cost depending on the car, i don't think you'll get near that

 

[craigster59]

If they do decide to repair you want to hit them up for "diminished value".

 

[FactoryT4R]

Every car of mine that was hit (basically all) has been totaled, traded in or fixed by insurance and immediately sold.

You dont know what problems will be from normal driving or the accident past this point. i'd get rid of it.

 

[JayToo]

If they do decide to repair you want to hit them up for "diminished value".

+1. it's a pain in the ass, and the insurance company will make it a hassle, but it's usually worth pursuing.

 

[djhuff7]

First, get your insurance company involved, even though they will not be paying the claim, that will help in the negotiating and they can speed things along if required. and no, you do NOT have to use the body shop their insurance sends you to. Find your own, most are "approved" by all insurance companies anyway, at least the ones that are worth a darn.

As far as getting rid of the car, I have had my share of bust ups, and a good repair shop can get you back good as almost new (notice I said good repair shop). Especially if nothing messed with the wheel tracking, nothing is bent there, you'll most likely never notice it. I had a Volvo hit my ram pickup square on the driver's front wheel, bent the frame and FUBARd the front suspension. Shop fixed it up and the truck tracked straight as an arrow, tires wore normally and I believe it is still on the road 20 years later.

If you can work it, use the money for steel bumpers is a great idea. Only bad thing with this route is you'll have to take a settlement from the insurance and deal with the repair on your own vs take it to the body shop, and the body shop bills the insurance for you. Would be bad if they tore into it and found more extensive damage.

 

[jrbpit]

I think you have several thousand dollars in damage. Enough to total? Dunno, but it is going to be a huge bill. The rear door has significant damage, huge dent and look at the gaps. Your hitch got pushed back, it is bolted to the chasis, so there is chasis damage. New bumper, mounts, paint etc. The front is pretty banged up as well. Would not be suprised if there is a little damage to the hood as well.

Last fall I got rearended and the person that hit me just about got their car stopped, but still hit me pretty good. It left a quarter sized dimple in the middle of the bumper. Just to fix that was $845.00.

Best of luck with the repairs. Keep us posted on what the damage estimate turns out to be.

 

[Robberbaron]

It is probably too new a vehicle to be totaled, but I am not an insurance adjuster. My 2016 SR5 with 15750 miles was hit by a BMW at the front right corner and she was driving so fast she bounced off and must have kept her foot on the accelerator as she hit me again in the rear corner as I coasted to a stop. The damage was nearly $8000.00, but I didn't care as I did not want the vehicle any longer, so I traded it in to a dealer that took the insurance money and let me drive off the lot in a brand new 2017. I took a $3000.00 hit, as it was now listed as a vehicle involved in an accident and it could not be a Certified Toyota. You take some lumps in life and fortunately all that was hurt was steel, rubber and glass.

 

[slippers]

Hey man, I feel your pain: You didn't get hurt, that's #1.

Some states (NC, for example) say it's a total if it's 70% of book, I honestly don't think you are that damaged, may be wrong.

Some states, it's up to your insurance company, it could be much higher than 70%, and to me, that's a very important question that is rarely asked by consumers when shopping for auto coverage.

Also, when taken to a repair facility, who determines if repairs are up to what you want? Sometimes if you request a diff. body shop than the one they pick, you may not be able to complain about the repairs, since you chose the shop, again another really good question to ask when insurance shopping.

The suck is when you sustain substantial damage, but aren't over the total limit. Most dealers/lots don't want a vehicle that took a big hit (airbags) as a trade. Carfax is out there, many peeps using Autotrader/CarGurus and other on-line listings never even look at your car when searching, usually ends up as auction material.

Try to pursue diminished value (2 of the same cars, 1 has had major damage, 1 hasn't) the diff. in value is what you are seeking to recover. Your case, could be thousands.

1st letter from an attorney is typically a couple hundred, worth it, crunch the numbers.

Pray to the Great 4Runner Gods that the driver at fault isn't denied coverage (say, for an un-disclosed adult, sharing same address) by their ins. underwriter, you can almost guaranty the driver has zero assets, zero anything, and that is why they used *Windhappy Insurance* in the first place.

Who's left to sue? Their insurance company is off the hook, fellow motorist with zero assets/job/ property is useless, and we eat the vegemite sandwich (our deductible, diminished value, rental car, because you gonna be in da shop for at least a month). Hope you have car rental (the max.) on your auto policy.

Grrrr.

OP, so sorry, you will get a new truck, you are fine, and that is what is really important...