Rear Gate handle coming loose - how to fix?

oakjefferson

New member
The left side of my handle is coming loose. I can see the screw coming out when I pull. I took the inside panel off but still can't access the screw. Any idea if I need to cut through the plastic inside to get access, or perhaps can I pop off the Toyota name/logo on the outside?

link to pics of issue
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I found this old thread about removing decals- I'm wondering if this is the only way to go. If so - how to I put that plastic film back on (and take off without damaging)

Anyone remove the 4runner emblem on a 5th generation?
 
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Never had to do a 5th gen before but with my 2nd gen, all handles had to be tightened from the inside. So, the interior shell of the trunk would have to be removed to access that bolt -window would have to be rolled up.

Maybe. Sorry, im no help lol
 
Lucky you I just had mine off the other day :D

You have to remove the interior tailgate trim.

1. Tailgate trim:

  • Remove the small plastic cover at the strap, remove the 10mm bolt and lay the strap to the side.

  • Use a trim tool on the left side of the tailgate lamp cover to remove, unplug the wire harness.

  • On the passenger side locate the arrow on the side of the tailgate trim. Using a trim tool gently pry the trim outward. Grab a large flat trim tool and work your way around the side and bottom releasing the white plastic retainer clips, I think there are 7 total and 2 in the center of the trim.

2. remove the two bolts holding the MCU bracket.

3. then gently peel back the vapor barrier (do it on a cold day the butyl rubber seal isn't nearly as messy as when it is hot out)

4. get a 7mm shallow socket and from the backside work the two white retainer clips that are holding the MCU bracket. Rotating the socket on the back of the clip while you gently pull will release the clips stays allowing you to remove it without trashing the clip.

5. disconnect the two MCU wire harnesses and the light/tailgate harness on the top and set that aside.

6. finish removing the vapor barrier and lay it off to the side carefully, so that you don't fold it back on itself (if you do your most likely buying a new one) the Butyl is tacky when warm be careful with it.

7. with that out of the way you should see 4 bolts and two retaining clips that hold the tailgate latch handle trim. Remove them and put some either purple or other "removable" Loctite on them and snug, don't over-tighten.

8. clean out any munge that seeps down from the rear window in the bottom of the tailgate and make sure all the drains are clear while you have open.

9. Carefully install the vapor barrier, install the MCU bracket, connect the harnessess, replace the trim, connect the lights, replace the lift strap, done

:)
 
I had the same thing happen to mine. You need to remove the interior panel and pull of the plastic sheeting. It's best to pull it off fast, it will retain it's stickiness and you can reapply. There are two bolts coming through that have nuts on them. On mine one of the nuts had come off and was inside the liftgate. I put some locktite on the bolts and put the nuts back on. So far so good.
 
I had the same thing happen to mine. You need to remove the interior panel and pull of the plastic sheeting. It's best to pull it off fast, it will retain it's stickiness and you can reapply. There are two bolts coming through that have nuts on them. On mine one of the nuts had come off and was inside the liftgate. I put some locktite on the bolts and put the nuts back on. So far so good.

AH!!

I've heard something rattling around in the rear gate. I thought my kid dropped something tiny down the window slot - it's likely the nut you're talking about.

thanks!
 
Peeling it off fast, gees, I guess so? When the strands get long push it back down and start to peel again. You know kind of like when you use a part of a sticker to remove a the gunk from sticker (don't know any other way to explain it) You can use a piece of the butyl to remove itself this way. Then clean any residue up with isopropyl alcohol.

The dealer trashed mine replacing the backup camera and did a real S##T job putting it back. I bought a new one for $12 and 3M 08620 1/4" x 15' butyl tape and fixed their "warranty" work. Dumbass me didn't snap a pic before hand only after.

Also note that the retaining clips all have foam washers, in case you happen to see one lying on the ground :)
 

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Be careful, that black adhesive stuff is hard to get off things! I did mine 7 years ago when it came loose. Used blue loctite and its held since.
 
Im glad I found this thread, as the left side of my rear garnish was noticeably loose. I followed the directions posted here and was able to fix it. While I was in there, I took off each of the 10mm nuts one at a time, applied blue loctite to them, then put them back on. All is well.
 
is there a trick to removing the toyota trim from hatch?

I need to replace the hatch switch, and I'm to the point where I have the 4 bolts off the Toyota logo piece that holds the hatch switch and license plate lights (bad screws Toyota that rust horribly, but that's covered in other posts).

The left (driver) side is loose but the right side with the key switch/lock is pretty stuck. I have the 4 nuts off -- lost one <sigh> when it just spun when I used a nut driver or socket wrench so I hit it with some liquid wrench type spray and used an 18V impact wrench which got it off but threw the nut somewhere I can't find it -- but I digress.

The right (passenger) side is really resisting, I pushed the rubber grommet through (thanks for the tip about that, whoever posted). Is the trim supposed to slide off the key switch/lock? Maybe the clip is really resisting, but it feels like the resistance is from the key switch/lock area? I pushed on the bolt, it feels like it will slide through the hatch.

TIA for any help. I just replaced the shark fin sirius antenna last week, guess I was feeling over confident after seeing videos, etc.

2012 TE ---

EDIT: Never mind, it *was* unbolting the key switch... sorry for taking up anyone's reading time.
Note, the one bolt that spun was broken from the trim, I may order a replacement trim piece, but I'm going to put it back together today.
Got the replacement latch switch in now, so just putting things back, should be easier. (famous last words)
Edit: mine is a 2012 Trail Edition.
 
Last edited:
Got 'er done!

Thanks to T4R.org and you tube...

Found the missing nut, the 10mm with flared base (?)... after replacing the hatch switch & reinstalling the trim piece, I closed the hatch for a final test before reinstalling the interior trim and heard a rattle in the hatch; seems like my earlier shaking wasn't enough. So, I pulled off the plastic & felt around & found the nut. yay. I though it was likely inside the hatch, but it must have been slight wedged somewhere.

in hindsight, I probably didn't need to get the nut off the bolt that spun, it was probably already broken off the trim piece, age & whatnot. I put it back to plug the hole, and keep the nut where it belongs.

One more tip, to reinstall the interior trim, my wife held the hatch down while I put the trim on, then reattached the hatch light connectors. Would have been challenging by myself.

Thanks to this website and all you contributors. Really helps people like me who aren't really handy.


I need to replace the hatch switch, and I'm to the point where I have the 4 bolts off the Toyota logo piece that holds the hatch switch and license plate lights (bad screws Toyota that rust horribly, but that's covered in other posts).

The left (driver) side is loose but the right side with the key switch/lock is pretty stuck. I have the 4 nuts off -- lost one <sigh> when it just spun when I used a nut driver or socket wrench so I hit it with some liquid wrench type spray and used an 18V impact wrench which got it off but threw the nut somewhere I can't find it -- but I digress.

The right (passenger) side is really resisting, I pushed the rubber grommet through (thanks for the tip about that, whoever posted). Is the trim supposed to slide off the key switch/lock? Maybe the clip is really resisting, but it feels like the resistance is from the key switch/lock area? I pushed on the bolt, it feels like it will slide through the hatch.

TIA for any help. I just replaced the shark fin sirius antenna last week, guess I was feeling over confident after seeing videos, etc.

2012 TE ---

EDIT: Never mind, it *was* unbolting the key switch... sorry for taking up anyone's reading time.
Note, the one bolt that spun was broken from the trim, I may order a replacement trim piece, but I'm going to put it back together today.
Got the replacement latch switch in now, so just putting things back, should be easier. (famous last words)
Edit: mine is a 2012 Trail Edition.
 

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