I'm sure there is atread on this but i don't see one.. Looking for a good but cheap locker for my 94 4 runner.... any help would be great . I have looked at grizzly and arb air locker but there price is not in the budget... it is a daily and I don't wheel all the time .. been once since i got it back in aug of this year... Thanks,Todd
rear locker???!!
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Joshv4runner
Member
Check this out. Locker FAQ - YotaTech Forums
BucknutBob
New member
Locking up the Yota
:bluejump:
Lockright makes a reasonably-priced locker that you can install yourself--no need for expensive set-up labor that most others absolutely require. I've heard some people have negative feelings on these, but I believe they were more hard-core wheelers that put a lot of abuse on their equipment. For what you're describing, it would probably work well. A selectable locker (ARB, E-locker, etc.) is best for street-driven rigs, because mechanical (full-time) lockers tend to push and slide on icy roads, but you should be fine with one in the rear with sensible driving. Don't put a mechanical locker in front, as it WILL screw with your handling, and is hard on parts--selectables or limited-slips are best up front. Have fun!
:bluejump:
Lockright makes a reasonably-priced locker that you can install yourself--no need for expensive set-up labor that most others absolutely require. I've heard some people have negative feelings on these, but I believe they were more hard-core wheelers that put a lot of abuse on their equipment. For what you're describing, it would probably work well. A selectable locker (ARB, E-locker, etc.) is best for street-driven rigs, because mechanical (full-time) lockers tend to push and slide on icy roads, but you should be fine with one in the rear with sensible driving. Don't put a mechanical locker in front, as it WILL screw with your handling, and is hard on parts--selectables or limited-slips are best up front. Have fun!
GonOvr
New member
very true statement.
I went through four lock rights in my younger days. I finally got wise and saved my money for detroit's. Plus lock right type lockers snap and pop alot. My vote is to get a tacoma e-locker from a salvage yard as mentioned. It will provide factory road manners and give you a full locker at the flip of a switch.
Go here so you can match the gear ratio's if you decide to go that route.
just my .02
Bear_F_ucker
New member
Locker Question
HI ALL, I drive about 500-700 miles a week and I want to keep my truck a daily driver. Is there a locker that is offered that can be used in all those highway miles and still maintain great offroad capabilities ?
Thanks
Bear_F_ucker
HI ALL, I drive about 500-700 miles a week and I want to keep my truck a daily driver. Is there a locker that is offered that can be used in all those highway miles and still maintain great offroad capabilities ?
Thanks
Bear_F_ucker
nashville67
New member
i have had the same problem you best best is gonna be an e locker out of a new tacoma or 4runner so you can select open diff or locked on the flip of a switch
BucknutBob
New member
Go selectable
A selectable one is best for lots of street driving, because it's just a stock open diff. when switched off, and won't affect anything. They're also best for bad weather days on pavement, because open diffs won't push you around and make you slide like a mechanical (full-time) locker will. Never use a spool on the street (tires can't differentiate speed at all), and don't use a mechanical locker in front. ARB's will get you the best of both worlds--open diff on the street, super-tough locker off-road.
A selectable one is best for lots of street driving, because it's just a stock open diff. when switched off, and won't affect anything. They're also best for bad weather days on pavement, because open diffs won't push you around and make you slide like a mechanical (full-time) locker will. Never use a spool on the street (tires can't differentiate speed at all), and don't use a mechanical locker in front. ARB's will get you the best of both worlds--open diff on the street, super-tough locker off-road.
Hyde802
New member
Lock rights, Aussies and Spartans are all the same design. You should still check the backlash, if thats what your talking about.
Spools on the street are fine, just expect a lot of tire wear, the drive train will be fine. But avoid this route if you do a lot of snowy road driving.
And mechanical lockers in the front, with selectable hubs are fine. Unlock the hubs and it lust like its open. But wouldn't recommend for winter 4wd road driving.
There are a hundreds of options out there. It comes down to is your driving style and how much on road comfort your willing to give up for more off road capability.
Bear_F_ucker
New member
Im sorry for stupidty Bucknut but I am new to serious off-roading.:lookout: Please elaberate on "A Selectable One" Price is not a huge isssue unless we are talking lockers more expensive than the 4runner it self. Also I would love the ARB air locker but its so expensive.
BucknutBob
New member
Questions are rarely stupid
Hey Bear, not knowing something because you haven't been exposed to it has nothing to do with stupidity! "Selectable" means you have to hit a switch to make it lock the differential. ARB uses compressed air to operate, necessitating an air compressor as well as the locker, but they are a proven performer in even the toughest wheeling. E-lockers are locked electrically. In case you don't know, a spool locks the axles together permanently, meaning the wheels have no way to turn at different speeds--if you use one on the street, you will spin a tire on every corner, causing excessive tire wear and tremendous stress on the drivetrain. Mechanical lockers are locked all the time, but their gears can slip when you go around corners, allowing one tire to spin faster than the other. The drawback with this design, though, is that on slippery pavement, there isn't enough friction on the tires to force the locker to unlock, so the tires push out on corners, and can even spin you. Also, when they do slip their gears, you'll get a somewhat annoying loud clicking as the gear teeth hop each other. The reason why I say never put a mechanical locker in the front end (on a vehicle that sees a lot of street driving) is because when you need 4wd on the road, the locker screws up your steering, and on slippery roads, it's downright dangerous. The alternative is to leave it in 2wd (as one post suggested, by unlocking manual hubs), which defeats the whole point of having a 4wd vehicle. With selectable units, you can still have 4wd, leaving the lockers UNlocked, making them perfectly safe for street driving--then you lock them in once off-road for ultimate traction. :thumb3:
Hey Bear, not knowing something because you haven't been exposed to it has nothing to do with stupidity! "Selectable" means you have to hit a switch to make it lock the differential. ARB uses compressed air to operate, necessitating an air compressor as well as the locker, but they are a proven performer in even the toughest wheeling. E-lockers are locked electrically. In case you don't know, a spool locks the axles together permanently, meaning the wheels have no way to turn at different speeds--if you use one on the street, you will spin a tire on every corner, causing excessive tire wear and tremendous stress on the drivetrain. Mechanical lockers are locked all the time, but their gears can slip when you go around corners, allowing one tire to spin faster than the other. The drawback with this design, though, is that on slippery pavement, there isn't enough friction on the tires to force the locker to unlock, so the tires push out on corners, and can even spin you. Also, when they do slip their gears, you'll get a somewhat annoying loud clicking as the gear teeth hop each other. The reason why I say never put a mechanical locker in the front end (on a vehicle that sees a lot of street driving) is because when you need 4wd on the road, the locker screws up your steering, and on slippery roads, it's downright dangerous. The alternative is to leave it in 2wd (as one post suggested, by unlocking manual hubs), which defeats the whole point of having a 4wd vehicle. With selectable units, you can still have 4wd, leaving the lockers UNlocked, making them perfectly safe for street driving--then you lock them in once off-road for ultimate traction. :thumb3:
Bear_F_ucker
New member
Bucknut Bob thank you so much but I still have many questions ? Maybe Y'all can answer another. Im originally from Florida and lived there until 6 years go when I moved out here to Western CO anyways I have always had Cars this will be the first 4x4 I have owned. Now I have been doing as much reading possible about my 4runner and finding out options but I still need to learn the Basics of a Differentals, transfer cases and how they work so if some one could please elaborate that would be awesome
Thanks,
Bear_F_ucker
Thanks,
Bear_F_ucker
BucknutBob
New member
I'll give it a shot
I'll see what I can do to help, BF. An "open" diff provides power to both wheels as long as traction is equal, and allows the wheels to turn at different speeds (hence the name "differential") for cornering purposes (outside arc is longer, so that tire must go faster). The problem is when one tire starts to lose traction, the design transfers ALL power to the side with least resistance, and "voila!"...you're stuck. You can have one wheel on dry pavement, the other in a pile of snow, and not go anywhere! A limited slip diff uses friction to partially connect the two wheels during tire slippage, allowing for some power to still travel to the tire with traction, getting you out of mild problems. Limited slips also still allow full speed differential for cornering. They're a good choice for the front end of a street-driven off-roader, but not the best. A locker fully-locks the two wheels together, so that one tire can be in mid-air and the other one still has full power--what you want on the trail. They will differentiate for cornering as long as there's enough friction on the road surface, and you're not putting down too much throttle--you'll usually hear a clicking sound as the gear teeth jump over each other (perfectly natural). A locker on slippery roads can be a problem, though, because there isn't enough friction to make the diff open, so the tires will turn the same speed, and try to spin you. That's why a selectable diff is best for heavy street driving--open for pavement, locked for trails.
As for transfer cases, they're simple beasts. They "transfer" power, by means of gears or a wide mesh chain, to either one axle or both, or none in neutral (its neutral overrides the tranny, because it comes after it). Chain drives make for smoother operation, but they limit your options--you're stuck with the ratio you have, whereas gear drives can be swapped out for a lower gear ratio for better off-road use. High-range (4-HI) is one-to-one, meaning it doesn't change your overall gearing, and is what you use on the road mostly. Low-range (4-LO) multiplies your overall gearing by whatever the ratio is, giving you more more power for climbs, etc.. Off-roaders like to swap out the factory gears (Yotas are usually 2.28:1) for something like 4.7:1 or higher (which can only be done with the gear drive cases). This is possible even for heavy street driving because you don't use 4-LO on the street, so you won't know it's there until you select it. Transfer cases are handy for trail-damaged vehicles, as you can still get home using your front axle only (in 4wd) if your rear axle is disabled! Hope that helps, BF! :roadkill:
I'll see what I can do to help, BF. An "open" diff provides power to both wheels as long as traction is equal, and allows the wheels to turn at different speeds (hence the name "differential") for cornering purposes (outside arc is longer, so that tire must go faster). The problem is when one tire starts to lose traction, the design transfers ALL power to the side with least resistance, and "voila!"...you're stuck. You can have one wheel on dry pavement, the other in a pile of snow, and not go anywhere! A limited slip diff uses friction to partially connect the two wheels during tire slippage, allowing for some power to still travel to the tire with traction, getting you out of mild problems. Limited slips also still allow full speed differential for cornering. They're a good choice for the front end of a street-driven off-roader, but not the best. A locker fully-locks the two wheels together, so that one tire can be in mid-air and the other one still has full power--what you want on the trail. They will differentiate for cornering as long as there's enough friction on the road surface, and you're not putting down too much throttle--you'll usually hear a clicking sound as the gear teeth jump over each other (perfectly natural). A locker on slippery roads can be a problem, though, because there isn't enough friction to make the diff open, so the tires will turn the same speed, and try to spin you. That's why a selectable diff is best for heavy street driving--open for pavement, locked for trails.
As for transfer cases, they're simple beasts. They "transfer" power, by means of gears or a wide mesh chain, to either one axle or both, or none in neutral (its neutral overrides the tranny, because it comes after it). Chain drives make for smoother operation, but they limit your options--you're stuck with the ratio you have, whereas gear drives can be swapped out for a lower gear ratio for better off-road use. High-range (4-HI) is one-to-one, meaning it doesn't change your overall gearing, and is what you use on the road mostly. Low-range (4-LO) multiplies your overall gearing by whatever the ratio is, giving you more more power for climbs, etc.. Off-roaders like to swap out the factory gears (Yotas are usually 2.28:1) for something like 4.7:1 or higher (which can only be done with the gear drive cases). This is possible even for heavy street driving because you don't use 4-LO on the street, so you won't know it's there until you select it. Transfer cases are handy for trail-damaged vehicles, as you can still get home using your front axle only (in 4wd) if your rear axle is disabled! Hope that helps, BF! :roadkill:
fourwd1
Moderator
A selectable locker can be turned off or on at the flick of the switch, like the ARB air locker, Toyota e-locker, or the Eaton e-locker.
It's the best of both worlds.
4runnertank
New member
I put an Aussie locker in mine, which is an automatic locking locker that locks when torque is applied, and I love it! I spend about 98% of the time on the road with no issues. But when I'm off road it's awesome.
And the best thing about it is that it's only $260.
And the best thing about it is that it's only $260.
