Rear locking dif question

As a Toyota mechanic, I'd trust your gut. If you feel iffy about the truck, pass it up and move on. I bought mine from someone 3 hrs away, and took the risk that it would have been a POS when I went to look at it. Yes it had some issues, but nothing that I can't fix. I did have a VIN to check all of the dealership records for it. And for that matter, I stole it for about $2500 below book. Dealer maintenance records typically suck. More times than I can count, I have looked up history on a vehicle just to see "misc repair" when I know damn well that the vehicle in question just had major work done to it.
 
or just try it out ... remember you have to be in 4lo to test it.

yes I tested mine before i bought it

yes I did it on the test drive

yes it was on concrete

No I didn't explode or hurt anything

No I didn't leave it locked for any length of time. only long enough to hear it engage feel that the back was locked up (any amount of turn on concrete and you will feel it) and the to let it unlock.

yep, I actually did that on the very first t4r i test drove. But the vehicle was so sloppy, and I didn't know this rear locker existed until a couple days after. Called the guy back and it had been sold. It was A LOT closer to home too. But when the only way to start the 4runner is to use the remote starter, quickly place foot on brake, quickly place key in ignition....that's not a great introduction to somebody's car. And oil leaks, bad alignment - the truck just felt neglected.
 
I should clarify - when I wast test driving, the 1st vehicle - I remember pressing a button on the left of the steering wheel - when putting the rig in 4WD. It wasn't until two days later, that I found out what RR Dif Lock is. Sloppy vehicle sold to someone else. Me still searching.
 
I second this, make sure the locker works. Up here (in the salt) I have not seen a 10 year old 4runner with a working rear diff lock. The salt gets into the actuator and mucks it up, a new actuator is on par with the price of installing an ARB locker into a non locked diff. You may be able to find a used actuator (or even rebuild the one on the truck), but then you have to hope everything else is in good condition (wiring, locking diff itself)

So the ARB locker is an actuator? - meaning - not the a whole (locking) differential? I'll have to research that.
 
So, I was all ready to drive 6 hours, one way, drag the bro-in-law, to this guy's house to buy the 4runner, but one thing was bothering me. An 'engine minor' service showed up when I ran the VIN through Toyota.com. Called the local dealer up there, he said the following: "...our records show....ENGINE NEEDS REPLACEMENT....MOTOR BLOWN...CUSTOMER DID NOT REPLACE ENGINE HERE.." The seller acted surprised, and said he would call back this week....no call yet. Guess instead of looking for a '98-2000 with the diff lock, I'll buy standard 4WD and try to install an ARD.
 
For sale: Blown motor

:toilet:So, I was all ready to drive 6 hours, one way, drag the bro-in-law, to this guy's house to buy the 4runner, but one thing was bothering me. An 'engine minor' service showed up when I ran the VIN through Toyota.com. Called the dealer, who opened the ticket, he said the following: "...our records show....ENGINE NEEDS REPLACEMENT....MOTOR BLOWN...CUSTOMER DID NOT REPLACE ENGINE HERE.." The seller acted surprised, and said he would call back this week....no call yet. Guess instead of looking for a '98-2000 with the diff lock, I'll buy any 3rd gen with standard 4WD and try to install an ARB.
 
Honestly, the TRAC system works really well if your brakes are in working order, IMO. No locker, but you won't know what you are missing, based off your posts.
 
Honestly, the TRAC system works really well if your brakes are in working order, IMO. No locker, but you won't know what you are missing, based off your posts.

Started reading a little about the TRAC system. Seems weird that wheels should lose power using breaking.

But, what years exactly did TRAC come installed? I was trying to save some $, thinking I'd buy a 3rd gen with no more 150K mi on it. So TRAC and ATRAC are different systems. I Gotta do more research I guess.
 
just to clarify - i know wheels will lose power during breaking, I just don't know if i like the wear and tear on the breaks. And don't want the rig to try to outsmart me with a traction control system.
 
This.

Even though it is marked, check to see if it works.

It seems with ebay and what not, people can make there trucks TRD models or their Benzes AMG models .

This guy stuck a V8 emblem on his runner. Does it mean he's got IFORCE under the hood.

2012-02-02_21-03-52_431.jpg~original


I wonder which is faster? The IForce v8 4runner or the TRD 4runner?
 
So the ARB locker is an actuator? - meaning - not the a whole (locking) differential? I'll have to research that.

No, the ARB is an air locking differential. I'm just saying, the cost to replace the actuator on the stock Toyota e-locker is about 1200$ (quote from a Canadian dealer) and the price of an ARB locker installed is about 1500$ (quote from a Canadian off road shop). Before I bought my Lexus, my plan was to install an ARB locker into a non-locked 4runner instead of dealing with an elocker.

You can find used actuators but they are rare, I just bought 2 used actuators for my lexus, it cost 700$ for the 2 actuators and I'm not sure they work yet (will find out today :))
 
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What I don't get is why Toyota didn't just spell out r e a r on the damn button. I mean, they obviously have room for 4 letters, or they would have had to shorten (further) "diff" and "lock". Why not just:

rear
diff
lock

Unless it's some sort of old convention that they've just held onto for whatever reason.
 
Doesn't matter now, cause I bought a '97 runner without rear dif lock. The rig is in great condition, with all service records, and checked out with a mechanic. So I'll start pricing out rear dif locks.
 

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