Rear shock bolt is stuck

[tucktuck8]

So I'm on day 2 of installing my lift. I got the front completely done and started on the rear. The top bolt for the rear shock is stuck. I have used PB blaster, hit it with the torch, and hammered it. It will not budge! Does anyone have any tips for removing this? I just spent 2 hours trying to get it off without a mm of movement. is it reverse threaded? what is going on here!!!

It doesn't help that there isn't enough room for sockets and the whole thing turns when you wrench on it ha

 

[yosh2000]

Hacksaw? Sawzall? Grinder?

 

[tucktuck8]

Hacksaw? Sawzall? Grinder?

it's a really tight space. I don't own a sawzall or angle grinder any other ideas?

 

[Synister]

There should be either a cutout in the top of the threaded shaft for a hex key or the top of the shaft is shaped to accept a small hex wrench. This is to keep the shaft from spinning when you torque on the bolt. You aren't going to be able to use a socket, have to use a box or open end wrench along with a hex in the top of the shaft or channelox / wrench to keep the shaft from spinning. Mine were a total PITA to remove also until some dude at the shop pointed out the engineering inherent in the shaft. Good luck!

 

[fdbyrne]

It is a tight space for sure, but I was able to get a dremel in there with a cutoff wheel.

 

[NuclearN8]

There should be either a cutout in the top of the threaded shaft for a hex key or the top of the shaft is shaped to accept a small hex wrench. This is to keep the shaft from spinning when you torque on the bolt. You aren't going to be able to use a socket, have to use a box or open end wrench along with a hex in the top of the shaft or channelox / wrench to keep the shaft from spinning. Mine were a total PITA to remove also until some dude at the shop pointed out the engineering inherent in the shaft. Good luck!

This. Use the hext key and get a ratcheting box end wrench. I think it's a 17mm. Or buy the entire set and when you get done with the suspension, return it, loaner program style...

 

[Neumonic]

You might as well buy a sawzall. I played with one of mine for an hour and got no where, pulled out the sawzall and had both sides done in about 40 minutes. Your rear shocks should come with new hardware (mine did) so cut the nut right above the top washer, simple, fast.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

i had to drill mine out

 

[Junior73]

Harbor freight, $20 for 4.5 inch grinder, sazall is about the same... I almost always just cut them off.... and yes I just did my rear shocks so it is possiable to get it in there...

 

[T101]

Cut it off, save yourself the aggravation.

 

[cpark_12]

If it's the stock shock, just get a long wrench on it and turn it until the shaft breaks. That's what I had to do. It doesn't take much to break it.

 

[tucktuck8]

I ended up getting it off with a Dremel and a chisel. What a pain in the butt. I wish the fender wasn't so close. I'll get lift pics up soon!! Might even start a build thread.

 

[m85476585]

The fronts on mine were really stuck. I ruined a pair of vise grips and an adjustable wrench getting them off, and wasted a couple hours. I was using the handle of my jack on the vise grips as a breaker bar. It looks like they overtightened them at the factory and destroyed the threads on the nut, so all the way off the nut has to cut the threads on the post. PB Blaster only made the outside of them more slippery. If they weren't so stuck a ratcheting box wrench might work, but mine were stuck enough that they probably would have ruined one of those, too.

I haven't done the rears yet since I can't think of a good way to cut them off without possibly damaging the body pinch weld next to them, but I definitely plan to cut them off somehow. Drilling is a good idea, but the metal is hard enough that it would probably ruin a drill bit. Maybe I can get a dremel in there, but it doesn't seem like it's at a good angle for a quick cut. It doesn't really look like there's room for an angle grinder. Maybe a sawzall would fit, but it's kind of a violent tool and I wouldn't want it to slip and damage the body.

It's cheaper to buy the right tool for the job in the first place than to damage the wrong tools and have to replace them, plus have to buy the right tool!

 

[A/V1]

If I remember correctly, when I did my rear shocks, I used a chain wrench (like this NAPA AUTO PARTS) and locked it onto the shock body while using what ever I could get onto the nut. Worked great and had them changed out quickly.

 

[TORCH]

I broke the shaft on each side because I'm a savage but cutting it off would probably be the safer and more proper way of getting it off.

 

[yotamandan]

Like Cpark said just keep turning it until it breaks... Man up ladies it took me about 3 minutes a side but I am 250 plus lbs
At first it will seem like you are not doing anything but just keep cranking and I assure u it will break

 

[bob3dsf]

Like Cpark said just keep turning it until it breaks... Man up ladies it took me about 3 minutes a side but I am 250 plus lbs
At first it will seem like you are not doing anything but just keep cranking and I assure u it will break

Hmmm, you mean spinning the shaft by turning the top nut? What breaks? The shaft?

I finally had a little time to try and tackle my new shock install and low and behold my top nuts are TIGHT! I have a big pair if vise grips, made for holding. I let the nut and shaft spin until the vise grips wedged against the fender well and all that happened was the flat top portion above the nut just twisted out of the vise grips. It started mangling that flat part.

Edit: I'm seeing a theme of a sawzall solution. I guess I'll prob'ly just do that. Would I just cut through the rubber bushing to cut the shaft, or should I try to get between the nut and washer plate... and now that I think about it, I have a nut splitter. Maybe I'll see how that works first...

 

[T4RCanada]

Didn't have a problem with my rears but my fronts were rusted on something fierce.

Cutting through the rubber bushing will make a mess and smell like crap for days, so try to avoid that if you can. Sometimes you can't though.

 

[str8flexed]

I just found this thread because whatever I tried gripping the top part, it kept slipping, and then tried THIS:

Works like a charm.

 

[ScooterMD]

can you try loosening the topnut with the wheel not lifted off the ground? ie the strut still under compression.