Rear Shock Mount Modification Thread?

B

BamaDrewski

New member
Ok...yes, I have looked and can;t find it. Seems like I remember seeing a "rear shock mount modification thread" where brackets were custom made and the rear shocks were placed in a different position inside the rear wheel well.

As anyone who has tackled replacing the rear shocks on the 3rd Gens, it is a ROYAL PITA!!!!

Would appreciate if anyone knows of the thread I am thinking about. Seems like it had several pics.

Thanks guys!
 
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I haven't looked yet, but I remember seeing it as well. I remember they were using mounts off of a F250 I think. Maybe search for that as well....
 
[MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] has a write up (or at least like three pictures) of what you're talking about.
 
4-Ripcord said:
The method that I used keeps the factory normal ride height shock length. So if you are just looking to move the mount and keep the shocks it would work for you.

The method can be used for both EYE and stud type top mounts.

See here: link to actual post
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/846201-post227.html
Click to expand...

Rip... I see you did that several years ago. Ever had any issues with that setup? On Road, Off Road, Future Upgrades... Things like that. I have the same shocks and adaptor and I'm not a huge fan. Took me three times to tighten it so my shock would stay tight, and I think it's a point of squeaks (not proven though..). Plus I generally dislike "adaptors". Just another failure point.

I would love to do what you did. Fast, I have the parts, and it would be cheap.
 
I sold that truck in august 2013, but I had no problems with it. I used a couple of different shocks with that mount before I sold the truck.

Just be sure to weld a plate to the frame (as I did) instead of welding the mount directly to the frame, major strength difference.
 
4-Ripcord said:
I sold that truck in august 2013, but I had no problems with it. I used a couple of different shocks with that mount before I sold the truck.

Just be sure to weld a plate to the frame (as I did) instead of welding the mount directly to the frame, major strength difference.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
Yes I saw that plate added.. That' a no brainer there!!! I just remember seeing somewhere a graph about the angles and options and, and, and, and... My brain started to swell. It looks like you kept it simple and if it worked, that's 10 times better! Great Job.
 
the shock relocation in that location give better down travel when both wheels are traveling down, however the stock location is better for articulation. on a solid axle when one side of the axle is compressed and the other side of the axle is extended, the axle swings down and the shock mount on the extended side of the axle moves in towards the center of the vehicle. I also believe that the shock can compress more in the stock location under articulation. if you move the shock outwards it has to bend inwards when its flexed.

anyways if you are a go fast guy this is great, but if you rock crawl the stock location is actually better, but if you go fast and have wheel spacers or low backspaced wheels the outboard shocks have the advantage.

also if you put the mount higher you can run a longer overall shock which will give more droop in both articulation and bump.

feel free to correct me :)
 
D Farms said:
the shock relocation in that location give better down travel when both wheels are traveling down, however the stock location is better for articulation. on a solid axle when one side of the axle is compressed and the other side of the axle is extended, the axle swings down and the shock mount on the extended side of the axle moves in towards the center of the vehicle. I also believe that the shock can compress more in the stock location under articulation. if you move the shock outwards it has to bend inwards when its flexed.

anyways if you are a go fast guy this is great, but if you rock crawl the stock location is actually better, but if you go fast and have wheel spacers or low backspaced wheels the outboard shocks have the advantage.

also if you put the mount higher you can run a longer overall shock which will give more droop in both articulation and bump.

feel free to correct me :)
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct. That's the price you pay using that location
 
I actually fabbed up some nice mounts and was going to do it a few weeks ago, and wasnt able to put them in, they simply dont work unless you have a lower backspaced wheel or wheel spacers.

another advantage is the ease of taking them out.

the 5th gen has the shocks in this position and i suspect the 4th gen and 2nd gen tacoma do as well.
 
my rig

14322611279_10c7ddfbce_z.jpg
 
Bijan said:
Did you get those yet? What kind?
Click to expand...

went with 10" for now. I would eventually like to go 12" but with the tire clearance I think I would need to notch into the frame.

Or relocate the shocks to the spare tire area like tacomas do a lot. Have to go around the panhard bar though..

pic from BAMF
 
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