Rear Shocks - Remove and Replace

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Unless your topnut is stuck. If so, the top of the shock will shear off and you will need a pipe wrench to hold the shock body. My shocks has 115K on them and they all broke. Also, anyone doing shocks on a 4runner, front or back will benefit from a set of ratcheting wrenches. Trust me I'm cheap and these area must.
 
Unless your topnut is stuck. If so, the top of the shock will shear off and you will need a pipe wrench to hold the shock body. My shocks has 115K on them and they all broke. Also, anyone doing shocks on a 4runner, front or back will benefit from a set of ratcheting wrenches. Trust me I'm cheap and these area must.

yeah the ratcheting wrenches are great for the top nuts, so is a ton of PB. I think they are 17mm.

That;s the reason I like the bilsteins, the shock body has a "nut" built into it so you can holt it with a wrench.

Sawzall works wonders too :thumb3:

Also for the top nut, if you can get a pair of vie grips on the top stud and a crescent wrench on the nut it'll help.
 
yeah the ratcheting wrenches are great for the top nuts, so is a ton of PB. I think they are 17mm.

That;s the reason I like the bilsteins, the shock body has a "nut" built into it so you can holt it with a wrench.

Sawzall works wonders too :thumb3:

Also for the top nut, if you can get a pair of vie grips on the top stud and a crescent wrench on the nut it'll help.

it's either 17 or 19mm. 10, 14, 17, and 19mm covers about 80-90% of your wrenching needs on a 4th gen t4r
 
its a 17, i did it three days ago. if its rusted on there good, it'll take patience, but it will come out for sure. i had to drill through the bolt/nut on the drivers side just to get it to spin a little, but it still was less than an hour for both sides
 
One man job without a problem - except for the top nut.

Spray it with your penetrating oil of choice. The real trick to make your life easy, however, is to drill through the old shock housing (the part without the oil if you want to keep things clean) and stick a big screw driver in there to keep the shock from spinning. Then remove the top nut with your ratcheting wrench.
 
Speaking of sawzall... I had to use one, but for a different reason. Did anyone else have to cut part (a small part) of their wheel well liner away in order to access the very top of the shock?

i took a pair of big pliers and actually bent the body up around the top nut area, gained 3/4" of clearance roughly
 

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